Splitting axe or maul

[Norfolk Horn]

A friend used what is sold as a "log grenade". It has the advantage that you can buy two and use them spaced along whatever you wish to split. Also they are cheap and work. A maul is great until it gets stuck. With the "log grenade" if it gets stuck you just keep hammering it in further and it will split the wood.

Roughneck Wood Grenade 4-Way Log Splitter 1.6kg - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. The explosive force in splitting logs. Extremely effective wedge with diamond head design for making easy work of log-splitting. Forged iron, heated, treated and hardened. Use with a sledgehammer or splitting maul. FREE next day delivery available, free collection...

www.screwfix.com

I've got two of those, well I should have but I put them away safe and now I can't find them

 

[eldon]

I have the x27 and had it a few years, great all round splitting axe.

I do likewise.
Nice piece of equipment that will take the abuse - recommended

 

[@theroedeerguy]

Yet another Fiskars user here.

Highly recommend, very effective and never gets stuck.

 

[rem284]

I've a oregon 8lb fibreglass shanked maul. I've had it 38 years, used it professionally at times over the years. It's split a lot of logs. Seldom gets stuck, the edge has never been touched and is as good as new. I haven't seen the same model for years. I would like to try a fiskars splitting axe to see how it compares

 

[Midgemagnet]

Thank you all for your replies. I’m only 5’5” so shorter handled would suit me better I suspect.
As yet I won’t be going through enough to justify hydraulic splitters or processing wood for a year.
I also quite enjoy the work out.
The fiskars seem reasonably priced. Is there any advantage on going for a more expensive forged by hand wooden handles type ?

id go for the hickory shaft as its more shock absorbing than the plastic whiplash ones

 

[User00047]

I broke my old one so I bought a cheapish fibreglass handled maul and what a difference! Way more shock comes through the handle and it doesn’t handle anything like as comfortably as wooden one.
I’ve been looking at one of these Ochsenkopf beasts….

Ochsenkopf 1591762 OX 30 E-2751 Splitting axe

Weight of head 2750 g2 120 mmLength 850 mmWeight 3550 gSpare handle OX E-85 E-0850 Sale Unit = 1 Pce

www.gedoretools.co.uk

Interested to hear from anyone who has one?

I’ve looked at the log splitter machines and they take so long to operate I think they’d probably only be worth having if you were elderly or disabled. If you are still able to swing an axe I’d make the most of it and save money cancel your gym membership

 

[Robs]

Best there is IMO Muller Tirol 3kg Splitting Axe, however hard to find and not cheap. It's a beast.

 

[norcan]

While it’s not quite as satisfying as swinging a big splitting axe or maul, it’s probably worth mentioning that these things are insanely effective:

 

[WH308]

While it’s not quite as satisfying as swinging a big splitting axe or maul, it’s probably worth mentioning that these things are insanely effective:

View attachment 276578

How do you fit a 3ft ring of oak in there?

 

[norcan]

How do you fit a 3ft ring of oak in there?

The XXL model, maybe?

I mean, they do have their limits. But then again, splitting a gigantic round of hardwood with a maul isn’t within everyone’s capabilities either.

 

[WH308]

The XXL model, maybe?

I mean, they do have their limits. But then again, splitting a gigantic round of hardwood with a maul isn’t within everyone’s capabilities either.

I’m only teasing, my neighbour has one for his young son to use. It’s safer for the lad than an axe and block and means he helps with the splitting chores.

 

[provarmint]

View attachment 276606

 

[rem284]

While it’s not quite as satisfying as swinging a big splitting axe or maul, it’s probably worth mentioning that these things are insanely effective:

View attachment 276578

How do you get that to work of the log is bigger than the top of the device

 

[countrryboy]

Must admit there may be better splitting axes than a fiskars but not for the money, a great tool, no idea how many T mine has done now, must be a few hundred, ( generally split about 20ish T a year by hand)
Its acarbon fibre shaft with a life time guarantee, never seem to get any shocks throu it

Never misses a beat, every now and again i try my old mual ( which i used to think was ok until i tried the fiskars) esp on real knotty rings or beech and still dont rate it compared to fiskars.
Must admit i do find beech a hard wood to split esp if big rings, for a while ii was cutting them too thick also at 18" and they took some splitting

Never got on with grenades at all, noisey bloody things too as metal against metal

 

[John Doe]

I use a maul but wouldn’t argue with any of the people that have said axe, quite a personal thing. Whatever you use, make a really solid chopping block of the right height that is comfortable to get the rounds onto and the right height to split on.

 

[User00035]

id go for the hickory shaft as its more shock absorbing than the plastic whiplash ones

I agree. I've had/still have plastic shock-shafts in axes, pickaxes and sledge hammers and they're not as good as a natural hickory shaft. The advantage is you don't wreck them as quickly if you miss-swing and bring the shaft down on the target instead of the tool head, but they're any more secured than a wooden shaft, not as good to use and they can't be repaired.

 

[Alantoo]

Having just looked at the Fiskars promo video, the obtuse profile of their "splitting axe" looks much closer to a Maul than a traditional axe...

 

[User00035]

I use a maul but wouldn’t argue with any of the people that have said axe, quite a personal thing. Whatever you use, make a really solid chopping block of the right height that is comfortable to get the rounds onto and the right height to split on.

Spot on as well. Most people splitting logs just use the flattest, toughest looking log they have to hand as their chopping block. Or the one they least fancy trying to split. Invariably it is far too short and causes you to over-swing which weakens the stroke, wastes energy and makes it harder to strike the log accurately. Ideally, your block should present the log to be split so it's about mid-thigh height, not down by your feet. Set you logs up like that and you'll feel less fatigued swinging the axe and you'll strike with more force for less effort.

 

[User00035]

Having just looked at the Fiskars promo video, the obtuse profile of their "splitting axe" looks much closer to a Maul than a traditional axe...

Except that the blade edge of an axe is generally wider (not sure if that's true for the Fiskars) than a maul. I find that helps on bigger logs. The axe may be lighter, but see above comment about presenting the log at the correct height so you don't waste energy. .

 

[John Doe]

Quite a bit of strategy involved in splitting big rounds whatever tool you use. Don’t just whack it in the middle. Look for natural shake splits that are already there and target those. Also work away at the edges. Once it gets a bit smaller remember that the log almost certainly weighs more that the tool so one technique is to strike it hard enough to bury it in then, on the next swing, pick the whole log up, turn it mid stroke and strike the back of the maul on you block so that the log splits over it if you know what I mean. Watch your back if you get too ambitious with this. I love splitting logs, hate to let them beat me.