Scots_stalker
Well-Known Member
My old CZ 22 is looking kinda tatty. I've thought about having the stock refurbed. Do you think its worth doing or trade in ?
stock refurb
- Thread starter Scots_stalker
- Start date
if you like the rifle, it's in good working order, and it's 'part' of your daily life, why trade it in? if you feel the stock could do with a refurb, maybe get a quote from http://www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk/showthread.php?28753-Gun-Restoration&p=259325#post259325
also, you can probably do it yourself too if you do a bit of utubing, ..if you mess it up,,then get a pro to fix it! LOL
also, you can probably do it yourself too if you do a bit of utubing, ..if you mess it up,,then get a pro to fix it! LOL
Scots_stalker
Well-Known Member
I tried doing up an old air rifle that I was given. I did an ok job but not a patch on a pro doing it
Try CCL products, widely available i.e http://www.avalon-guns.com/avalon/Shotgun-stock-care.html in most gun shops.
I have just stripped the finish of a sidelock, sealed and stained it and now on the 3rd coat of conditioning oil. As oil finishes they wear well, and are easy to maintain.
I have just stripped the finish of a sidelock, sealed and stained it and now on the 3rd coat of conditioning oil. As oil finishes they wear well, and are easy to maintain.
Scots_stalker
Well-Known Member
that looks great neil
Hornet 6
Well-Known Member
Thanks I like it, just wish I had more land that I consider safe for the humble .22lr
Neil.
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Brithunter
Well-Known Member
Actually re-finishing a wooden stock is not that difficult. When i acuired my Brno Model 2 the stock finish was worn in a couple of places to nitromors stripped it off. A light buff dwn with Scoch brite to remove whiskers after the water wash to neutralise the Nitromors an then once dried hand rubbed coats of stock oil or Boiled Linseed Oil now looks like this:-
Also did this one some dozen years ago now:-
I didn't like the feel and slipperyness of the factory poly finish.
Also did this one some dozen years ago now:-
I didn't like the feel and slipperyness of the factory poly finish.
Scots_stalker
Well-Known Member
What do you do at the chequering ?
Hornet 6
Well-Known Member
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Brithunter
Well-Known Member
It will depend on condition of chequering, sometimes it's worn of clogged with grime/dirt/sweat, if it's just clogged up a scrub with an old toothbrush whilst the nitromors is on it will remove most of it. If it's worn then I will clean it up and deepen it slight to point up the diamonds with a Triangular Swiss file or needle file. The curved rifler files are good for this. Then once it's done and brushed out with a brass suede brush or a new stiff nail brush then a coat of stock oil/BLO is brushed into the chequering and allowed to dry to seal it once more.
It's not as hard as it looks or sounds as the chequering patten is already cut and the spacings are laid out unlike cutting new chequering. Just go slowly and carefully especially at the ends of the runs/boarders.
It's not as hard as it looks or sounds as the chequering patten is already cut and the spacings are laid out unlike cutting new chequering. Just go slowly and carefully especially at the ends of the runs/boarders.
Ive done a few stocks myself now and as regards to the chequering be very very careful what you do to that area. Remember its all to easy to take the points off the chequering and once those points are gone they are gone. The chequering will be very delicate and soak up anything you use to strip them and any mechcanical action will run a huge risk of damaging them. If the chequering looks ok I would just mask it up and strip the rest of the stock. If you want to strip the old finish and take any minor scratches out of the stock then sand but block out the paper with a block of cork or something first. That will give you more control when sanding. If the the chequering is gunked up then you also have the option of soaking the stoak in cellulose cleaning thinners which will strip everything off the stock, but once again the chequering must be treated with caution for until the stock is fully dry that area will be a bit spongey and the fibres of the diamonds easily damaged. Just take your time and once the chequering is clean mask off until you have finished the lions share of the work on the stock. I have also damaged the diamonds before and 'got away' with it by touching up with riffling flles.
9 1/2 years ago if he hasn’t done it by now it’s not going to happen.
Stevie/P
Well-Known Member
what ever became of Brithhunter. ?
Banned. And not before time.
Is it likely to get tatty again. How do you treat it. Is it troubling you. Ocd? If it is and you know you will treasure how it will be. Do it. If it’s a knock aboit and you won’t. Don’t. Not judging. All my rifles even those 25 years old pristine and does affect my approach particularly crawling in crap in highlands. But hey that’s me. Our kit is a reflection of our personality
S
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