Following on from a thread that I thought was about thread-lock but wasn't ...
Threadlocking isn't always neccessary and depends upon the thread interface and the amount of force/vibration that the two items are experiencing.
There are different types of threadlock compound available all of which are anaerobic adehisves that cure/harden in the absence of oxygen. Essentially they are similar to superglue which forms a fine grained plastic substrate that binds into the pores of the metal. There is a lot of info on the Loctiite web pages.
Locktite 222 (purple) is (in my opinion) all you should need to ensure an interference fit between (for example) a weaver rail set screw and the action. Scope rings shouldn't need anything unless they are worn or missaligned/missmatched.
The only other time you should need to apply this type of locker is if the two threads are somehow missmatched. Tyically a thread is cut into the action (for example) and typically the threads are rolled onto the set screws/bolts.
There is a specification relating to screws and theads which offers a tollerance/gap between to two. This is where quality and cost meet, it's much cheaper to roll a thread than cut it and fine, matched tollerance costs more.
Threads stretch too and this is why a torque wrench is reccommended, over tighten a screw and it will not form as tight a bond (into the thread) as it did when first fitted. Repeapeatedly tightening and loosening reduces the clamping force between the two threads and vibration (lateral or torsional force) will loosen it. Applying a bonding substrate (ie locktite) between the two threads will lock them tightly together (like it says on the tin).
Chosing the right 'glue' is important as some (Red locktight for example) are not designed to be dissasembled unless ithe material is heated to above 280 degrees C
Threadlocking isn't always neccessary and depends upon the thread interface and the amount of force/vibration that the two items are experiencing.
There are different types of threadlock compound available all of which are anaerobic adehisves that cure/harden in the absence of oxygen. Essentially they are similar to superglue which forms a fine grained plastic substrate that binds into the pores of the metal. There is a lot of info on the Loctiite web pages.
Locktite 222 (purple) is (in my opinion) all you should need to ensure an interference fit between (for example) a weaver rail set screw and the action. Scope rings shouldn't need anything unless they are worn or missaligned/missmatched.
The only other time you should need to apply this type of locker is if the two threads are somehow missmatched. Tyically a thread is cut into the action (for example) and typically the threads are rolled onto the set screws/bolts.
There is a specification relating to screws and theads which offers a tollerance/gap between to two. This is where quality and cost meet, it's much cheaper to roll a thread than cut it and fine, matched tollerance costs more.
Threads stretch too and this is why a torque wrench is reccommended, over tighten a screw and it will not form as tight a bond (into the thread) as it did when first fitted. Repeapeatedly tightening and loosening reduces the clamping force between the two threads and vibration (lateral or torsional force) will loosen it. Applying a bonding substrate (ie locktite) between the two threads will lock them tightly together (like it says on the tin).
Chosing the right 'glue' is important as some (Red locktight for example) are not designed to be dissasembled unless ithe material is heated to above 280 degrees C
