Thermal scope or add on

[dearhunter]

Hi lads
Looking for optic advice ref boar, do you lads have dedicated thermal scope or add on, few bob these as you know so I don’t want to buy twice.
Thanks in advance

 

[mealiejimmy]

Thermal scope every time
Front add-ons are a PITA

Cheers

Bruce

 

[Night òwl]

Spot with thermal, shoot with NV

 

[Puds]

Spot with thermal, shoot with NV

Have they ever noticed the IR?

 

[One on top of two]

Some will , some won’t

 

[jall55]

Thermal is twice as good as NV - in my opinion
Its more expensive for a reason - its better

 

[th32]

Have they ever noticed the IR?

Some will notice the 850nm, I'd go for the 940nm. Mostly depends on the hunting preassure with lamps and NV.
Not and issue with thermals but price is in another league.

 

[Night òwl]

Spot with thermal, shoot with NV

At times yes , they notice shadow or a sudden change in light more than anything as their eyesight is not that good .
Hence why I use thermal to spot first by time the IR is on them its goodnight

 

[mealiejimmy]

Spot with thermal, shoot with NV

I've been spotting and shooting with thermal for 6 years
I find changing from a high contrast thermal spotting image to a low contrast NV shooting image to be a complete PITA

Cheers

Bruce

 

[Night òwl]

I've been spotting and shooting with thermal for 6 years
I find changing from a high contrast thermal spotting image to a low contrast NV shooting image to be a complete PITA

Cheers

Bruce

I have been shooting them in fairly high volumes for 10 years plus and find thermal to atn nv just fine
I used to use thermal to shoot but went back to nv after about 2 weeks

 

[skull hooker]

IMHO and experience, Thermal scopes produce a generated reticle. Its not a real physical entity. You can bring it in to zero pretty accurately, but the problem arises when you turn it off. Its a lottery whether or not the reticle comes back in the same place, and I lost faith in them, missing quite considerably a number of times after turning it back on.
Currently Im thinking of buying a Pulsar XG50 add on, which obviously uses the scope reticle, not a generated one. This seemed like the answer to all my prayers, but I saw a vid on YouTube yesterday where a guy did a test. He shot with a day scope, then clipped the XG50 to it and shot again. At 50 yards he was 2" low and 1" to one side. That is a considerable miss over 150 yards.
To tell you the truth you cant believe the hype put out by the company marketing teams, its just bollocks. They'd say anything to sell the unit. Your doing the right thing, asking around. I wish I could give you a definitive answer.

 

[BLUEROLL]

IMHO and experience, Thermal scopes produce a generated reticle. Its not a real physical entity. You can bring it in to zero pretty accurately, but the problem arises when you turn it off. Its a lottery whether or not the reticle comes back in the same place, and I lost faith in them, missing quite considerably a number of times after turning it back on.
Currently Im thinking of buying a Pulsar XG50 add on, which obviously uses the scope reticle, not a generated one. This seemed like the answer to all my prayers, but I saw a vid on YouTube yesterday where a guy did a test. He shot with a day scope, then clipped the XG50 to it and shot again. At 50 yards he was 2" low and 1" to one side. That is a considerable miss over 150 yards.
To tell you the truth you cant believe the hype put out by the company marketing teams, its just bollocks. They'd say anything to sell the unit. Your doing the right thing, asking around. I wish I could give you a definitive answer.

You can enter the calibration menu on the Krypton XG50 and adjust if necessary. I have used 2 strips of white insulation tape (one on the Krypton adaptor and one on the scope objective bell) to ensure repeat alignment.

 

[mealiejimmy]

Whether you use a glass scope, a digital scope (NV or thermal) or a front add-on (NV or thermal), the shooter needs to have confidence in the kit they are using.
I have confidence in my glass scopes and in my digital scopes (NV and thermal) but even after spending a lot of time with them, I have never really felt confident with front add-ons.
Every time I re-attached it to the scope there was a doubt in my mind as to whether it was still zeroed or not.
Eventually, that doubt led me to get out of front add-ons

Cheers

Bruce

 

[dearhunter]

Thanks all for your help still not quite sure what to get though

 

[SussexSteve]

Pulsar C50 will be a good bet if your shooting pigs close at night especially on a full moon. If you feel the need to go thermal I'd choose a scope over an add on personally

 

[Kevgun]

Senopex A7 holds Zero fine and the Thermtec Ares360, use both with no issues, other units I have used always end up shifting, not running down other units, but do your research before you buy and steer clear of anything that fits on the front, unless your shooting is inside 50 yards, where it won't make much difference.