Tikka T3 .223 1/12 Twist Reloading Data

TwoSmokingBarrels

Well-Known Member
As per the title, looking for a head start in what to begin with.

I’ve narrowed down bullet choice to Hornady VMax 55gr and Sierra Blitzkings 55gr.

I’m stuck on powder, been advised both Vit N130 or N133? What’s the difference and best option?

Factory Sako Gamehead ammo is already producing 1/4” groups! I will be using the Sako brass to reload (if any has any to sell let me know) with CCI Small rifle primers.

Any advice is appreciated!
 
Lots of powders work in 223. Of the two you mention, I'd choose N130.
Assuming your Sako ammo has the same bullet weight, I'd tend to aim for the same velocity at the same COAL (measured at the ogive) in your reloads to copy the nice grouping.
You need to work up your own load to suit your rifle starting at the published Vihtavuori starting load.
Ian
 
I've been reloading for a few years but not in great volume, so haven't kept up with the new powders.
My old Ruger M77 and now Tikka T3 love Hodgdon H322 and either 50gr Nosler ballistic tip for fox or 55gr Sierra gameking for Muntjac..

I'm now looking at getting a .243 and researching heads and powders, but the Bl###y EU have changed it all and there are loads of powders with reloading data you can't get here.
 
Firstly I'd get on Google and find an European supplier of 55 grain Hornady Z-max bullets as they're almost half the price of the V-Max over here and are exactly the same but with a green tip. You can buy a pack of 500 for about €80
 
Lap or Hornady brass CCI primers N133 with 55gr V Max is what I use works best in my Tikka T3 but every rifle is different.

I have delevoped 3 other loads for Tikka T3 .223 rifles and the same combo works sub .5 moa

Vhit say N130 is better for lighter 50-55gr and N133 is used by most bench rest shooting PPC.

N130, N133 and N135 is the same powder just a different coating that effects the burn rate.
 
Get yourself some Hodgdon CFE223. I don't believe that it is on the banned list.

I've had a number of .223s (Tikkas) and they've all loved this stuff. Velocities are superb and accuracy is just as good (when you tune the charge to your rifle). I'm using this powder at the moment with 55gr Blitzkings and it is like kryptonite to the foxes. ;)
 
Wow - what is your case fill % on that load?

One of my fave pest busting loads has even MORE Viht N133... I load 26.5gr N133 under 50gr V-max for a velocity closing on 3,400fps and 1/2" MOA accuracy. It's a real sweet load, but needs a long-drop tube to get that much powder into the Winchester .223 cases that I have used exclusively for many years now. So many loadings per case that I have just lost the interest to keep counting..
I have also used this powder loading under 50gr Nosler Silvertip projectiles for even very slightly tighter groupings, but they are a tad expensive imho and the 50 gr V-Max do a Great job and I get no arguments from my quarry when they go 'Pop'!

ATB ..... and shoot safely
 
Sorry for the delayed response but just want to say thanks for all the information provided above. I decided to for N133 with the 55gr Blitzkings and CCI Primers. My first batch will be made up this weekend, hoping for good results and will post my feedback here for reference.

I have always been advised to use Vit powders due to availability and no current ban implications. I can get hold of the mentioned CFE223 powder Aswell so will compare prices vs quantity and may give that a go. I just sold a box of 53gr Vmax as I couldn't find a decent local supply, I now have a supplier of 55gr Blitzkings on my door step so would like to keep with them (if they show the results I want!)

I'm also looking at finding a good soft point for deer, I'm not sure if I'd want to use the Blitzkings on deer. Can anyone recommend a good soft point bullet?
 
If it was me , I would start around 22.5 and go .5g steps until 27g, if you see any pressure signs around 25-26 then you can pull the 27s or what you have left.
When I find the best load within .5 , I then go .1or.2 either side to finalise my best load, yep a bit long winded, but I find its worth it.
ATB.
 
If it was me , I would start around 22.5 and go .5g steps until 27g, if you see any pressure signs around 25-26 then you can pull the 27s or what you have left.
When I find the best load within .5 , I then go .1or.2 either side to finalise my best load, yep a bit long winded, but I find its worth it.
ATB.

You may find it near impossible to get 27.0 gr of N133 into your .223 brass my friend, followed by a 50gr or heavier (longer) projectile. My loading of 26.5 gr of that powder had to be 'encouraged' to go into the small cases with a long-drop tube thats nearing a foot in length of fall for the kernels.. I tried without said tube and found that I had quite compressed loads that kept backing my newly loaded 50gr V-Max bullets out of the cases a bit, and not equally either so a bit of a pain!
F.y.i. I think the log-drop tube I have was bought from a shop specialising in black powder pistols and rifles and my tube was for moderately long barrelled target black powder pistol use....?

ATB ...... and shoot safely
 
P.S. ... I did notice those high capacity 100%+ loadings got a wee bit twitchy on hot summer days especially if the round was left in the chamber in the sunshine!!
Just MY observations, but worth paying notice to for you too if you lie in wait with one up the spout like I often do, especially when the weather is pleasant enough to allow that WITHOUT getting wet 'n muddy... Ha!
 
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