Tikka T3 owners.... blued v stainless

[redrbr]

The issues with Stainless Tikka's rusting are well documented, both on here and elsewhere - and I've experienced this also (including Sakos), I don’t want to resurrect the 'crappy stainless' debate.

One rifle I've never owned is a blued Tikka T3.

I've read a few horror stories on 'other forums' about blued T3's rusting after brief exposure to rain/damp, with orange external metalwork and seemingly terminal bore damage, but I take these comments with a pinch of salt as its never clear as to how the rifle was treated immediately after its soaking.

However, can any Tikka T3 owners with blued rifles comment on whether they have noticed issues with corrosion that seem to be a lot worse than any other blued rifle?

Reason being is that I've got the option of either finishes on a new T3x, so some background info is always handy...

Many thanks.

My experience for what it's worth:
I recently sold my (blued) Tikka T3 after years of great* shooting with it in all weathers.
I took reasonable but not fanatical care of it, and never had any corrosion issues with the barrel at all. I only sold it to change calibres, and it was a wrench to part with it, to be honest.
[* The rifle. Not me. ]

 

[Jeffsy]

I had a T1x that was standard blued.
Wiped over with an oily rag after every outing and no rust after 18 months.

 

[alberta boy]

My silver (they aint stainless) Tikka has some orange to the outside of it, where as my blued Tikka is spotless. Take what you will of that

I have one that has the same issue . It's really odd , it is extremely dry here , rust is never an issue on my blued guns , but this rifle has a slight orange blush to it . It doesn't affect the rifle in any way though .

AB

 

[ColinBr]

I have one that has the same issue . It's really odd , it is extremely dry here , rust is never an issue on my blued guns , but this rifle has a slight orange blush to it . It doesn't affect the rifle in any way though .

AB

Yes mine still shoots great, and I'm thinking of just getting it ceracoated, or will wait till it needs a new barrel and have it all done then

 

[sharkbait]

Got two tikka t3 hunters blued no rust issues! Out in all weather!
I've picked up so called stainless in the shops with plastic stocks and tried to fall in love with them but to no avail its the same as thumbhole stocks they just don't do it for me! Call me a traditionalist if you want

 

[ejg]

Any new rifle I get for myself I would clean very well with very hot soapy water to remove all salts/chemicals from previous processes. Dry well and oil.
The Stainless surface would need a little time to get "coated" and will get more stainless over time as surface oxidises. I would prefer the stainless version of the T3, just oil them like a blued version especially in the first year. I also oil the action well before sitting into the composite stock. This keeps the water out. Advantage of the stainless T3 is that the bore rusts less and one needs less oil in the bore meaning the rifle is ready for action.
edi

 

[steve w]

i have 2 T3 both blued no rusting problems .

 

[takbok]

Every blued / cro-moly steel rifle I've had has rusted very easily in my house, particularly the bores (Sako, Pac Nor, Ruger).

My stainless T3 that I bought 2nd hand is spotless and I'm never concerned about putting it away dirty of after getting it wet. I usually push a patch through the barrel after use and the bore remains spotless to my eye.

 

[User00026]

Buy whichever you like the look of best, you’ll be oiling them both down when wet anyway, so it’s neither fish nor foul.

Think about it. If you buy a synthetic and stainless, and it gets soaked, will you just put it away when you get home? No..

Stainless and synthetics was just the way for manufacturers to get more sales and make sure people keep buying. In the stalking industry, wood/blued or stainless/synthetic really doesn’t matter.

For deployment in war zones, different story.

 

[C h r i s]

I started using Renaissance wax on my stainless T3's and Sakos, works a treat and not had any rust spots for many years. Seems like lots of good feedback on the blued Tikkas so will certainly consider for my next rifle. I went with a stainless varmint in the end as the blued one had some storage/handling damage. However, not sure I'm a big fan of the extra weight of the varmint barrel though - I can see me either getting it fluted or selling it....

 

[308tikka]

I bow have 3 blued Tikkas. Some dont have all the grubscrews etc....

Orange spots appear and it can even be on the drive back. If its wet before you go out give it a wipe as above with a wd40 soaked rag (but not the bore or chamber) and then wipe down before putting in gunslip. Bolt out, magazine off -dry it off.

Also take moderator off and wd40 threads (applicable to all rifles).

 

[308tikka]

I started using Renaissance wax on my stainless T3's and Sakos, works a treat and not had any rust spots for many years. Seems like lots of good feedback on the blued Tikkas so will certainly consider for my next rifle. I went with a stainless varmint in the end as the blued one had some storage/handling damage. However, not sure I'm a big fan of the extra weight of the varmint barrel though - I can see me either getting it fluted or selling it....
what calibre is your varmint barrel ...?

 

[C h r i s]

243 - so plenty of barrel wall to go at!

 

[308tikka]

If it had been a 22-250 I might have been tempted !

243 - so plenty of barrel wall to go at!

 

[NullMac]

Who cares if it gets rusty? Its a £1k gun not a £10k gun. You can clean it off and refinish it.

 

[C h r i s]

I have to work for a living so I care, plus its not so easy to clean rust from a bore, who wants a rusty bore

Anyway, it would seem that the blued Tikkas are indeed not prone to rusting any more than other rifles, which was the original question.