What’s your grouping allowance

Overlay

Well-Known Member
On all my CF calibres apart from the rimmies, all my rifles are zeroed at 1” high with a 3 shot group within the inch circle and that’s me done for accuracy and range, they will shoot closer / better with a bench rest type of affair but I shoot off sticks 90% and zero off sticks either tripod or viper Styx

do you start giving tolerances for bench shooting and field work on zeroing, my thoughts are to shoot the best I can on the most used discipline any thoughts
 
I zero my rifle off the bench in a indoor range at 100m .
Usuall the groups are touching holes , so i know i'm good to go.
Can't see the point in zeroing 1'' high, as i've got ballistic turrets if need to adjust for distance.
If a deer runs say to 200 after you have dialled and shot at a 100 what do you do waste time then ping it and dial again or just come a bit higher? @Overlay I use the sticks to zero Phil as we all have some form of flinch also the head cheek weld is different to the bench by virtue of sitting down V standing up. There are lots of other factors standing on the headland with one foot in the plough sticks skating around on ice or summer hard ground.
1" high in the bull..........then the wind is a added extra lol.
 
Zero off whatever I use in the field, be is bipod, rucksack or sticks. I'll always check between rucksack/bipod and sticks to make sure it's near enough. Usually zero cock on at 100 and dial for anything further away
 
I zero at 100yards spot on and develop until the group is touching when rested, maybe a bit better for my long range target rifle and main stalking rifle where I’m looking for cloverleaves.

I was never one for ES etc until @Malxwal ruined me….😂 although I like his 100 yard/ 400 yard system looking for minimal vertical spread.

Zero is not 1” high to me - that’s 1” above zero. If you need to shoot something further away you should know where your rifle is shooting, although aim at 2/3 of the way up a beasts on most U.K. deer and it’ll likely be a hit out to 300-350 yards with most commonly used chamberings.

Regards,
Gixer
 
I zero my rifle off the bench in a indoor range at 100m .
Usuall the groups are touching holes , so i know i'm good to go.
Can't see the point in zeroing 1'' high, as i've got ballistic turrets if need to adjust for distance.
Morning shootgun
I zero my rifle off the bench in a indoor range at 100m .
Usuall the groups are touching holes , so i know i'm good to go.
Can't see the point in zeroing 1'' high, as i've got ballistic turrets if need to adjust for distance.
The indoor range is a handy place to have access to, is that MOD or a private range, the only place anywhere near me is the kynoch range Norfolk way 2-3 hour drive away for wind free zeroing, i’m happy with a sub inch off sticks
To be honest I look at strengths and Would stick to my within an inch group as it’s then all down to me to get it right. i’ve got a zeiss V8 with the ASV set up without apps etc on a 243 and it works perfectly with ASV but it’s still a 1” high at a 100 to start. it’s what I shoot at best with everyone to their own I guess and what works
 
Morning shootgun

The indoor range is a handy place to have access to, is that MOD or a private range, the only place anywhere near me is the kynoch range Norfolk way 2-3 hour drive away for wind free zeroing, i’m happy with a sub inch off sticks
To be honest I look at strengths and Would stick to my within an inch group as it’s then all down to me to get it right. i’ve got a zeiss V8 with the ASV set up without apps etc on a 243 and it works perfectly with ASV but it’s still a 1” high at a 100 to start. it’s what I shoot at best with everyone to their own I guess and what works

Kynock range is what i use, but doesn't have to go very often, unless i change the ammo or the scope , once is zeroed i know it will stay like that.
I'm using a Zeiss V8 too, on Blaser rail mount and is absolutely rock solid. I have tested the ASV up to 500 meter and is spot on.
 
From where I am with the 1" then I would not be picking up a range finder then looking at the turret adding the 5 clicks.
That time would be spent on the next shot....but each to their own.

I'm quick, trust me, very quick ...;)
 
Kynock range is what i use, but doesn't have to go very often, unless i change the ammo or the scope , once is zeroed i know it will stay like that.
I'm using a Zeiss V8 too, on Blaser rail mount and is absolutely rock solid. I have tested the ASV up to 500 meter and is spot on.
yep got that on the 308 in a word solid bit of kit
 
On all my CF calibres apart from the rimmies, all my rifles are zeroed at 1” high with a 3 shot group within the inch circle and that’s me done for accuracy and range, they will shoot closer / better with a bench rest type of affair but I shoot off sticks 90% and zero off sticks either tripod or viper Styx
If that works for your shooting then you are good to go.

Other ways to skin the cat but not necessarily any better for your application.

If you are doing most of your shooting off sticks then zero and practice off sticks. Certainly with the 5 leg Vipers I have found that there is not an accuracy penalty.

Shooters inputs between prone and standing will probably be different so the zero may be a bit different. Groups may well be tighter prone etc but that will not translate to the field lying in a puddle with a thistle up the butt.
 
I want all my shots to fall within a typical "kill zone" diameter circle at any distance from 30 yards out to 230 yards without any holdover / holdunder required (MPBR). Basically just point and press.
With the 270 that equates to about three quarters of an inch high at 50 yards. Why 50 yards? Because I can check that on a target at the bottom of the garden any time I like.
 
If that works for your shooting then you are good to go.

Other ways to skin the cat but not necessarily any better for your application.

If you are doing most of your shooting off sticks then zero and practice off sticks. Certainly with the 5 leg Vipers I have found that there is not an accuracy penalty.

Shooters inputs between prone and standing will probably be different so the zero may be a bit different. Groups may well be tighter prone etc but that will not translate to the field lying in a puddle with a thistle up the butt.
yep the way i look at - sticks are probably the weakest link in accuracy, for me I work to get the most accurate shot off of sticks anything more stable is or will follow i use what I use most and always checking it works for me 👍
 
If that works for your shooting then you are good to go.

Other ways to skin the cat but not necessarily any better for your application.

If you are doing most of your shooting off sticks then zero and practice off sticks. Certainly with the 5 leg Vipers I have found that there is not an accuracy penalty.

Shooters inputs between prone and standing will probably be different so the zero may be a bit different. Groups may well be tighter prone etc but that will not translate to the field lying in a puddle with a thistle up the butt.
👍. I’ve just changed to the viper + 5th leg and to be honest they are excellent, I’m still getting used to them but they are rock solid that’s for sure
 
MPBR means, by definition, that you're missing over half your shots at max distance. If you want to use MPBR style thinking, I recommend finding out at what distance you can shoot kill zone sized groups in field conditions (you can split this over several sessions, but make sure you keep count on the POA/POI i.e. not three shot group here and there, but aggregate of 10+ shots). Zero at this distance.

Then use ballistic calculator to see at what distance your POI differs most from POA, and shoot at that distance (obviously aiming at center). If the calculator suggests you're out of kill zone, or if your aggregate group doesn't stay in kill zone, make a guesstimate of shorter zero distance and repeat.

I zero usually at 150m. It's convenient (range available) and makes you more humble than 100m. Might use different distance or calculated offset if required. I will zero using position / rest that I'm most likely to use with shots that require most precision, and then check other positions if applicable. As a side note, I also zero Aimpoints etc. at 150m, it just requires proper target. Just remember to practice on appropriate targets (not the easy zeroing target).
 
2" off sticks at 100 yards using PPU bulleted reloads, closer still with the Barnes ttsx but at 4x the price it restricts use for practice. Zero 1/2" high, don't bother with all that ballistic turret stuff, the deer might clear off by the time you've done all that fidgeting around
 
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