Would anyone be interested in an affordable, UK made induction annealing machine?

intrested , the gap imo is making these things at the right price . It simply has to be economic over and above the replacement of the brass . Lapua is easy ten reloads at top accuraccy ( as in match ) without anealing . The guy who gets the cost right is the guy who is going to sell a bundle
 
intrested , the gap imo is making these things at the right price . It simply has to be economic over and above the replacement of the brass . Lapua is easy ten reloads at top accuraccy ( as in match ) without anealing . The guy who gets the cost right is the guy who is going to sell a bundle

Would that not depend on the chambering, and the load ?

I think you'd struggle with some magnum cartridges ?
 
The simple solution would seem to be for the reloader to measure neck thickness with his caliper and a simple calibrated dial or timer on the annealer. Even the most basic reloader like me would find that easy).
Yes that would help but brass chemical composition also influences melt time. The simplest way is to sacrifice some cases from a batch by running the induction coil until the case melts then backing off the timer progressively until the case doesn't melt. I am not so keen to waste brass because one would have to do that every batch so if my buddy can create an auto-calibrating annealer I will go for that instead.
 
Very interested - if - and it’s a big ‘if’ - there’s a way of assessing the optimum time/temperature a case should be heated for & that time can be precisely controlled (basically as the AMP does it).

Creating an induction annealer isn’t the problem, there are quite a number of different machines already on the market - some looking very ‘Heath Robinson’ others somewhat better packaged but none combine the exactness & fine control of the process that the AMP offers (albeit for a price).
Yes that's the key. The annealer needs automatically to optimise the run time of the induction coil for each case as they differ in thickness, chemical composition etc. It needs to do a nice thorough anneal but without melting the case. If I had a spare £1300 I would get an AMP annealer but if my buddy can make an auto-calibrating annealer for a more affordable price I will go for that.
 
intrested , the gap imo is making these things at the right price . It simply has to be economic over and above the replacement of the brass . Lapua is easy ten reloads at top accuraccy ( as in match ) without anealing . The guy who gets the cost right is the guy who is going to sell a bundle
Yes I find my .308 brass is not in need of much annealing so I may not bother annealing them at all. My annealer will mainly be used on my brass with narrower necks relative to the case width as I find these work harden much quicker to the extent where the neck tension is all over the place, obturation fails sending hot gas backwards and I even get split necks. In particular my .243 and 7x57 cases suffer from this rapid work hardening. I guess in these narrow necked cases the neck takes more of a battering from the hot gases passing through than a wide mouth case like a .308. So I would say if you only shoot .308 it is not worth getting an annealer. If you shoot overbore cartridges like .243 then an annealer is useful.
 
This forum thread has 160+ pages of comment, innovation and addition to a group effort annealer design and manufacture.
 
My annealer will mainly be used on my brass with narrower necks relative to the case width as I find these work harden much quicker to the extent where the neck tension is all over the place,

I'm lucky to have the AMP, which is a complete extravagance, given the use it gets, but I much prefer it to the previous version, which used gas.

With regards to neck vs case diameter, it's also a balance between not over annealing the neck, and under annealing the shoulder. I had an issue with some 9.3x62, which with hindsight, really didn't need annealing, where the necks became so soft, some started to collapse when inserting the bullet.

This was easy to address, but time consuming. Annoyingly, some slipped through, without any visual sign, only to bite me on a recent driven boar trip, where the bullet parted company with the case, and the powder entered the R8 bolt housing, jamming it up.

Fortunately, I had a second rifle, and could just swap the bolt housings over. Checking the ammunition later, I found 4 more rounds, where the bullet was easily pulled out.

Sorry for digressing, but connected, and a lesson learnt.
 
The method by which the AMP "decides" the correct annealing time for any given cartridge is their trade secret and what makes the machine as good as it is.
Also, each AMP manufactured is calibrated by performing microhardness tests on annealed cases
When I built my annealer, I knew I could not make a machine that automatically "decided" when the anneal was complete, but I do have the ability to hardness test each case after annealing to establish the correct annealing time.
It's the hardness testing that validates the annealing

Cheers

Bruce
 
One of my shooting buddies happens to be an electronic engineer and is making me a relatively simple and robust induction annealing machine so I can get even neck tension on my reloads. If any of you might also be interested in such a gadget comment below and I will keep you posted about how the machine develops in case he is willing to make some for other people at some point in the future.
I would be interested also.
 
Yes I find my .308 brass is not in need of much annealing so I may not bother annealing them at all. My annealer will mainly be used on my brass with narrower necks relative to the case width as I find these work harden much quicker to the extent where the neck tension is all over the place, obturation fails sending hot gas backwards and I even get split necks. In particular my .243 and 7x57 cases suffer from this rapid work hardening. I guess in these narrow necked cases the neck takes more of a battering from the hot gases passing through than a wide mouth case like a .308. So I would say if you only shoot .308 it is not worth getting an annealer. If you shoot overbore cartridges like .243 then an annealer is useful.
shot one for decades exceeding the ten firings not an issue . chamber fit and not over sizing not caliber matters. 308 and 243 should be equal if the movement to tight chamber is equal . You only need a 2-3 tho@ size . a slack chamber and over sizing will wreck brass fast
 
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