Yew Tree 243 Reloading

Expensive way of doing. Frankly if you cant get a decent 3 round group with a certain load not really worth wasting another 7 rounds.
It’s also expensive chasing lands and other minute details that may or may not make a difference.🤷‍♂️

Three shots doesn’t really give you much to go off of. Statistically the more shots the better to get an actual idea of what’s going on. I guess it depends on what your goals and purposes are.
 
It’s also expensive chasing lands and other minute details that may or may not make a difference.🤷‍♂️

Three shots doesn’t really give you much to go off of. Statistically the more shots the better to get an actual idea of what’s going on. I guess it depends on what your goals and purposes are.
Good point there mate. Its frankly expensive regardless ...unless you are lucky to drop on a load quickly. I found an accurate load early on but had pressure signs...faffed about for another 60 or so rounds...purchased new lapua brass and 120 grain TTSX bullets and had a 1/4" group within about 20 rounds so happy with that. For me I want homeloads to give better grouping then factory or why would we bother? Now the gaymoor is sorted need to look at the .243 :)
 
It’s also expensive chasing lands and other minute details that may or may not make a difference.🤷‍♂️

Three shots doesn’t really give you much to go off of. Statistically the more shots the better to get an actual idea of what’s going on. I guess it depends on what your goals and purposes are.
If a 3 shot is outside of your target, you move on. If its a good group, more testing required. I personally do that a number of times until I'm happy and historically I've been pretty successful with that method. If I fire 3 and its an inch and a half, It gets left unless I genuinely pulled it in which case I'll load another 3 rounds
 
I’ve found the 80.5 an extremely accurate bullet out of my Tikka T3

N160 is too slow, try N140 and work up carefully. Pressure signs can appear quite quickly at the top end. I seat mine down so the canular / driving band is only just visible (I can check COAL later if you like).
I'd be interested in the COAL and any load data you'd be willing to share, which I would treat with good sense, working up etc.
 
Hi, I found this to be the most accurate copper bullet out of my sako carbon light, I’ve worked up loads using different powders, r15, r19, old h380, but haven’t tried any of the vihtavuori powders, just looked back on my notes and all my loads oal was 2.710.

Atb
Andrew
 
Hi, I found this to be the most accurate copper bullet out of my sako carbon light, I’ve worked up loads using different powders, r15, r19, old h380, but haven’t tried any of the vihtavuori powders, just looked back on my notes and all my loads oal was 2.710.
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I sold all my Reloder 19 and have none of the other powders you mention. How far off the lands are you with the 80.5 grain Yew Tree in your Carbonlight? Your OAL would have the bullet kissing the lands in mine.
 
I'm having a frustrating time working up a load for the 80.5 grain Yew Tree copper HP in a 243 Sako Carbonlight. So far, I've worked up with N160, which seems to be what most people are using. I have no pressure signs at 46.2 grains, with 3350 fps but don't want to push it more. Norma brass, CCI BR-2 primers.
I was expecting an indication of a preferred powder charge, but nothing stands out as being worth fine tuning with seating depth. Every charge is producing about 1 to 1.2 inch 3 shot groups. The rifle is properly clean before using copper. It shoots Nosler Tipstrike and a 70 grain NBT homeload into half an inch, or .6 on a bad day. I have other powders I could try, N140, N150, RS70 and H414 for example.
What would you do?
If you are that high in powder charge terms it implies you have incomplete (and therefore inconsistent) burn probably due to a shortish barrel. I would suggest a quicker burning powder.
Cheers
Rich
 
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