stuck home load in .243
- Thread starter Hussar
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Probably...but not before getting answers to a lot of questions, and looking at the problem for himself.
Alan
Several years ago I was in a similar situation, loaded a round into my .223 lined up on a fox and click, nothing happened, could not lift the bolt and potentially had a live round chambered with trigger sear ? disengaged but bullet not fired. Extremely scary. Anyway resorted to pointing weapon into ground and repeatedly pulled trigger eventually round fired, not an experience i wish to repeat. Problem was that I had been neck sizing rounds and clearly had not moved shoulders back and so presumably created a head space issue. Resorted to hitting bolt handle with a rubber mallet to lift bolt and extracted case.
I think issue was caused by my incorrect set up of my dies,. Now I have and use a Wilson case comparator to ensure case dimensions are correct.
D
I think issue was caused by my incorrect set up of my dies,. Now I have and use a Wilson case comparator to ensure case dimensions are correct.
D
I had one stuck in my 22-250 earlier this year, I filled the barrel with WD40 and then used a cleaning rod to tap the bullet back into the case until the WD ran into the case , I left it for 2 days to soak and then cut off an old cleaning rod to 2" longer than the barrel and knocked out the stuck case with a hammer.
When the case was out, I tipped the contents onto a steel plate and hit it with a hammer to see if it would light, it didn't so the WD had killed the powder.
The rifle is back to shooting 1/2 MOA.
I DONT RECOMMEND ANYONE ELSE DOES THIS BUT IT WORKS.
When the case was out, I tipped the contents onto a steel plate and hit it with a hammer to see if it would light, it didn't so the WD had killed the powder.
The rifle is back to shooting 1/2 MOA.
I DONT RECOMMEND ANYONE ELSE DOES THIS BUT IT WORKS.
kenbro
Well-Known Member
Hard to understand this post!
A case that’s a tight fit in the chamber won’t stop it from firing.
Also, i presume the click you heard was the firing pin moving. If you couldn’t lift the bolt after this, how can keep pulling the trigger fire the round?
Regards,Ken.
kenbro
Well-Known Member
sikadog,
I can’t comment on whether WD renders powder inert, but i vary much doubt it will neutralise a primer over such a short time.
I once put some cases through the sonic cleaner, 3x8 minute cycles. When inspecting the cases i found 2 had unfired primers in. Put the cases in the rifle and surprisingly both fired.
Ken.
I can’t comment on whether WD renders powder inert, but i vary much doubt it will neutralise a primer over such a short time.
I once put some cases through the sonic cleaner, 3x8 minute cycles. When inspecting the cases i found 2 had unfired primers in. Put the cases in the rifle and surprisingly both fired.
Ken.
I asked 2 riflesmiths how they got stuck live rounds out and they both said the same.
Sinistral
Well-Known Member
THIS^^^.
It's such a straightforward problem & happens every week on ranges. I must have cleared blocked chambers several dozen times now. As you’re working with the taper in your favour it’s a light tap with a cleaning rod without a jag attached. If there’s a concern about damaging the lede or rifling then use a solid jag with a loose fitting patch. That’s all anybody can do as it’s so dark in there you can’t see a monkey’s whatnot. There’s a slightly different method for cast-lead & BP cartridges. If you have to hammer it out then the operator has lost it & forced the bolt shut.
For those that missed it, the OP’s bolt won’t close so the cartridge can’t be fired. That’s usually down to an oversize web at the head end. The dies could be improperly set, but if it’s an intermittent/one-off then it’s more likely to be not enough pressure on the press handle.
WD40 doesn’t neutralise primers. I don’t think the compound is hygroscopic. A gentleman on here sent a lot of primed cases thinking a squirt of this made them inert & legal to post, but after a week everyone fired.
Druid
Well-Known Member
That’s what I thought. Then I started wondering how recoiless rifles manage to work effectively??? Must get googling when I have time.
Druid
Well-Known Member
What rifle?
enfieldspares
Well-Known Member
The issue is that the sides of the chamber will contain any pressure of the round is fired. However if the bolt is not present the pressure will be free to exit both frontways (bullet end) and rearways (casehead end).
Do not attempt to drill the primer as that may ignite it... through mechanical force or through friction generated heat. And the very drill itself will restrict the ability (if the cartridge fires) to vent its pressure rearwards.
Dissassembly of the barreled action from the stock is advised. That may expose the underside of the cartridge so that a wide screwdriver blade filed to the contour of the rim can lever it out.
In other words file a wide concave or shallow U (using another case to give correct shape) that with luck engages a full width of any rim you can reach.
Your extractor failed as it is either too narrow or as the bolt cannot fully close it isn't in any event properly engaged with the rim. And an American led obsession with wanting rifles that cock the bolt on opening.
If that doesnt work use a ONE PIECE well lubricated its full length metal rod at least sieight inches longer than the barrel and one third fill the barrel with thick non compressible non "dieselling" oil and rely on the hydraulic pressure of tapping a rid onto THAT OIL to use the oil to drive the case out.
Do not use a wood rod and any other sort of rod that may break and the broken piece get stuck if it gets stuck and needs to be withdrawn.
The BEST rod is one turned to bespoke or "custom" fit, so it slides up and down easily but without side to side lee (aka wiggle) the bore so it cannot flex in the bore. If it cannot flex it cannot damage the bore. A blow to its end can only go straight following the axis of the bore.
Hydraulic pressure will do it. Parker Hale and others drove steel ball bearings up rifle barrels to ball burnish them. The rod doesn't need to contact the bullet.
If you haven't suitable NON DIESELLING AND NON COMPRESSIBLE OIL OR FLUID use water as water doesn't compress and it doesn't diesel.
Do not attempt to drill the primer as that may ignite it... through mechanical force or through friction generated heat. And the very drill itself will restrict the ability (if the cartridge fires) to vent its pressure rearwards.
Dissassembly of the barreled action from the stock is advised. That may expose the underside of the cartridge so that a wide screwdriver blade filed to the contour of the rim can lever it out.
In other words file a wide concave or shallow U (using another case to give correct shape) that with luck engages a full width of any rim you can reach.
Your extractor failed as it is either too narrow or as the bolt cannot fully close it isn't in any event properly engaged with the rim. And an American led obsession with wanting rifles that cock the bolt on opening.
If that doesnt work use a ONE PIECE well lubricated its full length metal rod at least sieight inches longer than the barrel and one third fill the barrel with thick non compressible non "dieselling" oil and rely on the hydraulic pressure of tapping a rid onto THAT OIL to use the oil to drive the case out.
Do not use a wood rod and any other sort of rod that may break and the broken piece get stuck if it gets stuck and needs to be withdrawn.
The BEST rod is one turned to bespoke or "custom" fit, so it slides up and down easily but without side to side lee (aka wiggle) the bore so it cannot flex in the bore. If it cannot flex it cannot damage the bore. A blow to its end can only go straight following the axis of the bore.
Hydraulic pressure will do it. Parker Hale and others drove steel ball bearings up rifle barrels to ball burnish them. The rod doesn't need to contact the bullet.
If you haven't suitable NON DIESELLING AND NON COMPRESSIBLE OIL OR FLUID use water as water doesn't compress and it doesn't diesel.
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My mate tried to tap a stuck 223 cartridge out.The cleaning rod was fired through the garage door!!!
Stand rifle muzzle up and pour some thin oil [wd40] down the barrel to soak [eventually]into the cartridge to render the powder harmless.Probably best to let a gunsmith do it.
Stand rifle muzzle up and pour some thin oil [wd40] down the barrel to soak [eventually]into the cartridge to render the powder harmless.Probably best to let a gunsmith do it.
reloader54
Well-Known Member
ffs I can't wait to see page ten 
Didn’t someone write earlier that WD40 does not render powder, and certainly not the primer, inert? Several examples of rounds made ‘safe’ this way subsequently firing?
I’ve no first hand experience but if someone has had this happen maybe it might be time to go looking for one of those 2500psi grease guns.
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sorry,
How does thin oil penetrate a case that is sealed to the atmosphere and has been known to survive being buried in Flanders field for 75 years?
Also how does impacting the bullet tip set off an otherwise untouched primer with no other physical interference with the case head?
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