stuck home load in .243

[Hussar]

ALL FIXED and back to normal did the right thing and let the gunsmith fix it rifle working perfect with factory rounds well chuffed thanks to all the lads for your input

 

[Tom D]

So he tapped it out with a rod yes?

 

[SamHuntVic]

I get to the end of this interesting read and still don't know the definitive answer. Lots of things will work but what was the gunsmith's method please?
Grant.

 

[John Gryphon]

Well put a rod in the barrel and give it a knock with your hand,I have done this prev and with with my first `98 action years and years ago. I had placed the round into the chamber and closed the bolt not knowing that the bullet had to be fed in by the bolt.
There is no way the round can detonate.
Take it to a `smith and that`s all he will do..then charge you.
Sometimes a bit of brass swarf will cause binding and its usually very surprising as to how little a 'knock' is needed.

 

[kenbro]

ALL FIXED and back to normal did the right thing and let the gunsmith fix it rifle working perfect with factory rounds well chuffed thanks to all the lads for your input

Did you measure the stuck case to see if it was oversize just in front of the head? Or, was there some other reason the case got stuck?
Regards,Ken.

 

[Bavarianbrit]

What would the legal side be to taking a firearm ostensibly as loaded through the country before you get to the gunsmith or - heaven forbid the garden shed where to save costs you will try to remove it yourself? I would suggest to call the gunsmith in advance to arrange the job then you are pretty well covered. Glad it is fixed btw.

 

[Eddie P]

What would the legal side be to taking a firearm ostensibly as loaded through the country before you get to the gunsmith or - heaven forbid the garden shed where to save costs you will try to remove it yourself? I would suggest to call the gunsmith in advance to arrange the job then you are pretty well covered. Glad it is fixed btw.

A loaded rifle is legally the same as an unloaded rufle if you have appropriate ammo in your pocket.
Safety wise... potentially a different story.

 

[flying felix]

No, I don't think so. If a round accidentally detonated in the manufacturers packet it wouldn't go far. However, within the confines of a firearm it's going to go very far in whatever direction the barrel is pointing.

Hence the reason I wrote "the risk of it functioning" and not "the risk from it functioning". What are the possibilities of the round functioning without a means of initiation? It can be easily argued that the round is actually safer in the chamber as it is protected from crush damage, which is not the case of ammunition in cardboard boxes.

 

[flying felix]

The issue is that the sides of the chamber will contain any pressure of the round is fired. However if the bolt is not present the pressure will be free to exit both frontways (bullet end) and rearways (casehead end).

Do not attempt to drill the primer as that may ignite it... through mechanical force or through friction generated heat. And the very drill itself will restrict the ability (if the cartridge fires) to vent its pressure rearwards.

Dissassembly of the barreled action from the stock is advised. That may expose the underside of the cartridge so that a wide screwdriver blade filed to the contour of the rim can lever it out.

In other words file a wide concave or shallow U (using another case to give correct shape) that with luck engages a full width of any rim you can reach.

Your extractor failed as it is either too narrow or as the bolt cannot fully close it isn't in any event properly engaged with the rim. And an American led obsession with wanting rifles that cock the bolt on opening.

If that doesnt work use a ONE PIECE well lubricated its full length metal rod at least sieight inches longer than the barrel and one third fill the barrel with thick non compressible non "dieselling" oil and rely on the hydraulic pressure of tapping a rid onto THAT OIL to use the oil to drive the case out.

Do not use a wood rod and any other sort of rod that may break and the broken piece get stuck if it gets stuck and needs to be withdrawn.

The BEST rod is one turned to bespoke or "custom" fit, so it slides up and down easily but without side to side lee (aka wiggle) the bore so it cannot flex in the bore. If it cannot flex it cannot damage the bore. A blow to its end can only go straight following the axis of the bore.

Hydraulic pressure will do it. Parker Hale and others drove steel ball bearings up rifle barrels to ball burnish them. The rod doesn't need to contact the bullet.

If you haven't suitable NON DIESELLING AND NON COMPRESSIBLE OIL OR FLUID use water as water doesn't compress and it doesn't diesel.

This is a similar technique to one that we use to remove stuckfast artillery shells.
The situation would occur if the gun was given the order to cease fire once a round had been loaded and the gun was hot. If the shell was not extracted quickly enough the chamber would contract around the shell.
The solution is to remove the barrel, fill it full of water, seal the muzzle and use a small Black Powder charge to induce the force. Worked every time.
We tried to modify the technique on a gun for which the equipment was not designed for and all we managed to do was to blow the 1 ½ inch metal plate we used to seal the muzzle 50m down range. We ended up deliberately detonating the shell in the barrel.

 

[reloader54]

glad you got it sorted safely.

 

[reloader54]

sorry,
How does thin oil penetrate a case that is sealed to the atmosphere and has been known to survive being buried in Flanders field for 75 years?

Also how does impacting the bullet tip set off an otherwise untouched primer with no other physical interference with the case head?

^exactly this.^ that's why I stated pour oil down the barrel AFTER the bullet had been pushed inside the case, and I too would like to know how a 6mm wooden dowel can fire a primer from INSIDE the case??

and does anyone really think the op would try to "drill" through a live primer?


and I can't help thinking basc,or even putin didn't have a part in getting it stuck in the first instance.

 

[TURNBOLT]

I saw the hole in the door and a distressed bloke who had been very lucky.

 

[Alantoo]

sorry,
How does thin oil penetrate a case that is sealed to the atmosphere and has been known to survive being buried in Flanders field for 75 years?

Also how does impacting the bullet tip set off an otherwise untouched primer with no other physical interference with the case head?

It is what isn't said that may give a clue...Turnbolt didn't actually say there was no other physical interference, that is your presumption; reasonable, but still a presumption...maybe his mate had got it stuck part way in part way out and was tapping it with the bolt still hooked on the back end...

Alan

 

[Alantoo]

snip...

and does anyone really think the op would try to "drill" through a live primer?
snip...

Have you ever heard of the Darwin awards?

Alan

 

[JTO]

Have you ever heard of the Darwin awards? Alan

Many a true word is spoken in jest.

 

[Shootist]

I have had a couple of such experiences. Both with Savage rifles, one .223 and one .308 and in each instance the cases had been neck sized. In a subsequent batch of 50 neck sized cases about a third of them would jam the bolt. It seems Savage rifles, some at least, have tight chambers. I don't have this problem with my Steyr Scouts. In both instances the symptoms were the same. The bolt would close but only turn half way down. Then it would refuse to open or close further. It would not, of course, fire.

In my range kit I now carry a rubber mallet and a brass rod of appropriate diameter and length, courtesy of B&Q with which to deal with any such further instances (unlikely, since I no longer neck size for those rifles and check the cases before finishing the reload). I have also stopped neck sizing for those particular rifles. I do feed a selection of cases from each batch I make up before making up the cartridge in order to make sure they feed nicely and the bolt closes easily. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure but it's nice to be prepared just in case.

While writing this, I recall that the reluctance of the bolt to close on the neck sized cases was similar to, but worse than, the tight fit of some PPU factory ammunition that I have heard several people complain about. However, the PPU ammunition would allow the bolt to close, albeit stiffly whereas the neck sized cases (of several different makes, Lapua, PPU, Winchester, Hornady) would often prevent the bolt closing at all, requiring much swearing to remove them.

 

[Ranger22]

Hussar,did you find what caused the round to stick in the chamber?

 

[reloader54]

It is what isn't said that may give a clue...Turnbolt didn't actually say there was no other physical interference, that is your presumption; reasonable, but still a presumption...maybe his mate had got it stuck part way in part way out and was tapping it with the bolt still hooked on the back end...

Alan

Quote;Also how does impacting the bullet tip set off an otherwise untouched primer with no other physical interference with the case head?Quote;
or what HAS been said,, but simply ignored.

 

[Hussar]

case had only been neck sized the smith screwed a valve type thingy on to barrel then used oil under pressure to push bullet into case and pop out primer he then drilled base of case and used some kind of puller to yank out the case cost £20 well worth it as my rifle is a rare 1984 tikka m55 trapper with fluted barrel i was very pleased with the end result lesson leaned DO NOT use other persons reloads cheers trev

 

[JTO]

case had only been neck sized........... lesson leaned DO NOT use other persons reloads cheers trev

There you go!