limulus
Well-Known Member
Many thanks and a pleasure to meet you too. Surprised how close together we live....small world
Sold: Quad shooting sticks
- Thread starter limulus
- Start date
ChrisWill184
Well-Known Member
Having bought a set last year (or the year before, I can’t remember) I had difficulty getting used to them in all honesty after using my home made twin sticks for some time. I wouldn’t leave the house without these sticks now. There is no tracking on these and in some tall grass, moving the sticks can be difficult for fine tuning the position. What I do is use my hand as an intermediary between the front fork and rifle forend, almost if you can imagine like holding a snooker cue with the back of my hand facing towards me. Allows me to then track very accurately as I am holding the rifle between thumb and forefinger while remaining totally steady. Absolutely solid, lightweight and above all affordable for some decent craftsmanship.
Its an honest review after using them for a year so hope that is ok? Perhaps the likes of other branded sticks address this tracking issue but they do stretch the budget a bit to the point where it is nearly the cost of actually shooting a deer with a guide!
limulus
Well-Known Member
Thanks Chris a very fair review. Some people like the locked in effect, others don’t. What I would say is the ability to move the forend on a cradle sounds good but definitely reduces accuracy. I’ve made front cradles, 5 stick set ups etc and the current quad stick design Is the optimum in return for accuracy, stability and cost.
glogin
Well-Known Member
Great video Greg even if you are using one of those deformed bolt jobbies
That would make your Sticks about 7 years old?
I think first fair in kelso was march 2013, so 5yo, but still like new
limulus
Well-Known Member
For those that fancy having a go at making a set of sticks themselves rather than buying a set....
LIMULUS QUAD STICKS
What you’ll need:
15mm square planed sections of ash of a suitable length
Router with a ½” round over bit
Four 30mm cabinet bolts and screws, two will need to be ground to 27mm unless you get a batch that just happens to be 27mm….sometimes happens.
Four 13mm Teflon washers with a 6mm hole in them
2 countersink screws for the above if you’re not offsetting the pivot bolts.
4mm elastic cord
Suitable stain
Suitable wood treatment oil
Spot of wood glue
5.5mm drill
4.5mm drill
Countersink bit
Electricians Earth tape!
Other bits and bobs
These instructions are based on making a right handed set of sticks
Take 4 lengths of ash. The length should be your height less 100mm
Tape them together, top and bottom in a configuration to give a good square section all the way down the pieces.
Measure 100mm from the top and drill 5.5mm holes through the centre of two faces of the sticks.
Measure 15mm from the bottom and drill 5.5mm holes through the centre of two faces of the sticks at right angles to the top holes.
With the holes at the top running left to right countersink the right hand hole of the front sticks and the left hand hole of the rear sticks.
Drill a 4.5mm angled hole 20mm from the top of the rear right stick, countersink the hole on the face above the pivot hole.
Router each side of the Sticks starting just under the top holes and finishing at 100mm above the centre point of the sticks.
Repeat this starting 100mm from the bottom to a point 300mm above the starting point.
Drill 4.5mm holes through the outside faces of each stick about 100mm below the centre point.
Sand everything with 120grit sandpaper then repeat with 240grit to give a smooth finish.
Mark the top of Sticks with a marker pen so when you remove the tape holding the sticks together you can put them back into the same orientation later.
Remove the tape holding the sticks together.
Sand each edge of the sticks above the top pivot point holes so each edge is rounded over by about 1mm (reduces the chance of marking a wooden stock)
Stain the wood
Stain it again
Allow to dry
Oil the sticks, allow to dry
Oil them again, allow to dry
Oil them again, allow to dry
Cut two lengths of 4mm cord about 400mm long and one length of about 200mm
Assembly time
Take two of the sticks that are identified as being together by the marker on top
Let’s assume its the two sticks at the front where the right hand stick hole is countersunk.
Put one of the 27mm cabinet bolts through the 5.5mm hole ensuring you use a Teflon washer between the two pieces of wood.
I use stainless countersunk screws which fit nicely into the countersink and use a spot of nutlock (blue) on the threads to prevent the screws backing off easily.
Repeat for the “rear” two sticks.
With all four sticks in the correct configuration put the remaining two cabinet bolts through the bottom two holes again ensuring a Teflon washer is placed between the wood and use the cabinet bolt screws with a spot of nutlock on. You don’t want any of the screws tightened too much…just enough and a ¼ more.
Close the sticks together so that the two sticks facing your sternum have the countersunk hole on the right side of the right stick.
The left hand stick of these two is the “opening” stick for a right hander and should be identifiable by several wraps of earth indicator tape placed about 300mm from the top of that stick.
Closing the sticks again ensure the taped stick is facing your sternum and on the left.
Now run the 400mm lengths of elastic, don’t forget to knot one end first, through from the front right angled hole in the middle to the rear right hole at the back then the same on the left side.
Knot the ends you’ve just passed through then flame the ends of the elastic cord to prevent fraying. These elastic cords should be adjusted to the width you want the sticks to open to in future by putting a knot in the appropriate place for future operation.
Knot the end of the 200mm elastic cord and run it through the countersunk hole at the rear right of the sticks and tie a loop in the elastic which will be used as a catch for the top of the sticks. Again flame the ends after cutting off any excess.
ive not included the mitre cut on the front right hand stick to make them fixed to right handed but that’s easy to figure out yourselves
I think that’s it. Have fun and feel free to contact me if you get stuck.
LIMULUS QUAD STICKS
What you’ll need:
15mm square planed sections of ash of a suitable length
Router with a ½” round over bit
Four 30mm cabinet bolts and screws, two will need to be ground to 27mm unless you get a batch that just happens to be 27mm….sometimes happens.
Four 13mm Teflon washers with a 6mm hole in them
2 countersink screws for the above if you’re not offsetting the pivot bolts.
4mm elastic cord
Suitable stain
Suitable wood treatment oil
Spot of wood glue
5.5mm drill
4.5mm drill
Countersink bit
Electricians Earth tape!
Other bits and bobs
These instructions are based on making a right handed set of sticks
Take 4 lengths of ash. The length should be your height less 100mm
Tape them together, top and bottom in a configuration to give a good square section all the way down the pieces.
Measure 100mm from the top and drill 5.5mm holes through the centre of two faces of the sticks.
Measure 15mm from the bottom and drill 5.5mm holes through the centre of two faces of the sticks at right angles to the top holes.
With the holes at the top running left to right countersink the right hand hole of the front sticks and the left hand hole of the rear sticks.
Drill a 4.5mm angled hole 20mm from the top of the rear right stick, countersink the hole on the face above the pivot hole.
Router each side of the Sticks starting just under the top holes and finishing at 100mm above the centre point of the sticks.
Repeat this starting 100mm from the bottom to a point 300mm above the starting point.
Drill 4.5mm holes through the outside faces of each stick about 100mm below the centre point.
Sand everything with 120grit sandpaper then repeat with 240grit to give a smooth finish.
Mark the top of Sticks with a marker pen so when you remove the tape holding the sticks together you can put them back into the same orientation later.
Remove the tape holding the sticks together.
Sand each edge of the sticks above the top pivot point holes so each edge is rounded over by about 1mm (reduces the chance of marking a wooden stock)
Stain the wood
Stain it again
Allow to dry
Oil the sticks, allow to dry
Oil them again, allow to dry
Oil them again, allow to dry
Cut two lengths of 4mm cord about 400mm long and one length of about 200mm
Assembly time
Take two of the sticks that are identified as being together by the marker on top
Let’s assume its the two sticks at the front where the right hand stick hole is countersunk.
Put one of the 27mm cabinet bolts through the 5.5mm hole ensuring you use a Teflon washer between the two pieces of wood.
I use stainless countersunk screws which fit nicely into the countersink and use a spot of nutlock (blue) on the threads to prevent the screws backing off easily.
Repeat for the “rear” two sticks.
With all four sticks in the correct configuration put the remaining two cabinet bolts through the bottom two holes again ensuring a Teflon washer is placed between the wood and use the cabinet bolt screws with a spot of nutlock on. You don’t want any of the screws tightened too much…just enough and a ¼ more.
Close the sticks together so that the two sticks facing your sternum have the countersunk hole on the right side of the right stick.
The left hand stick of these two is the “opening” stick for a right hander and should be identifiable by several wraps of earth indicator tape placed about 300mm from the top of that stick.
Closing the sticks again ensure the taped stick is facing your sternum and on the left.
Now run the 400mm lengths of elastic, don’t forget to knot one end first, through from the front right angled hole in the middle to the rear right hole at the back then the same on the left side.
Knot the ends you’ve just passed through then flame the ends of the elastic cord to prevent fraying. These elastic cords should be adjusted to the width you want the sticks to open to in future by putting a knot in the appropriate place for future operation.
Knot the end of the 200mm elastic cord and run it through the countersunk hole at the rear right of the sticks and tie a loop in the elastic which will be used as a catch for the top of the sticks. Again flame the ends after cutting off any excess.
ive not included the mitre cut on the front right hand stick to make them fixed to right handed but that’s easy to figure out yourselves
I think that’s it. Have fun and feel free to contact me if you get stuck.
Morni'n To!, Sticks still going strong , one application of Linseed about a year ago, good for wading and leverage too.
When I picked em' up from you, I was in the Artic on the steel job, So must be 2010 ish?
Good kit - they just work
So, Tony, you are into bone setting now?.
AN DU RU FOX
Well-Known Member
can,t wait for my new ones.
limulus
Well-Known Member
Ladies and gentlemen.
I can’t make any more sticks until after the 5th Jan as I’ve run out of timber!
It’s been very busy the last couple of weeks and I didn’t plan for such a rush on my sticks and my joiner won’t be able to process more square section for me until next year.
Come the new year I’ll be once again offering a set of sticks to a worthy recipient be it a newcomer to stalking or a rancid old fart that could do with something to steady their shots in their dotage
A very happy Christmas to you all
Tony
I can’t make any more sticks until after the 5th Jan as I’ve run out of timber!
It’s been very busy the last couple of weeks and I didn’t plan for such a rush on my sticks and my joiner won’t be able to process more square section for me until next year.
Come the new year I’ll be once again offering a set of sticks to a worthy recipient be it a newcomer to stalking or a rancid old fart that could do with something to steady their shots in their dotage
A very happy Christmas to you all
Tony
Last edited:
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