Newbie acquiring gear

PSE Composites Limited - The next level Rifle Stocks
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Joe.destinct

Active Member
I've made a list of the equipment I think i need for my foray into reloading but I had a few questions I couldn't see the answers to.
I'll be reloading for .243, I'm having some success with the factory federal premium with sierra heads but would like to tighten up the groups as i'd like to learn more about shooting longer range.

I'm trying to keep costs to a minimum at the moment so will be buying mainly second hand I think.

My list is as below;
Equipment;
  • Reloading manual(s)
  • Tumbler and media
  • Reloading Press - What are the bushes for and do they come with the press or the dies?
  • Dies - I dont know which dies I need, also can I use any brand dies with any press?
  • Trimming tool
  • reamer for neck
  • Powder scoop
  • Powder trickler
  • Funnel (home made?)
  • Scales (was going to go electronic but not sure if balance scales are more desirable for any reason?)

Consumables;
  • Heads (Sierra gameking 85gr BTHP)
  • Primers - any recommendations?
  • Powder- any recommendations? I'm getting 3050fps from a 20" barrel with the federals and want to stay deer legal
  • Brass (I have once fired federal & hornady brass + nickel plated Federal brass) should I just be using one type?

I haven't reloaded at all before so will be doing plenty more reading and watching videos on youtube etc. (maybe a course or someone to watch first too!) I'd just like to start slowly building my kit up in preparation.
I'm based in Dorset.
 
Noun. heads. plural of head. (nautical) That part of older sailing ships forward of the forecastle and around the beak, used by the crew as their lavatory; still used as the word for toilets on a ship. The side of a coin that bears the picture of the head of state or similar.

Bullets. A bullet is a kinetic projectile and the component of firearm ammunition that is expelled from the gun barrel during shooting.
 
For each question that you have asked, there are a wide range of options. No two folk will give you exactly the same answer. On the specific question of cleaning, I recognise 4 distinct options -

  1. Ultrasonic cleaner - I use this.
  2. Tumbling with dry media - I bought this, never used it and sold it.
  3. Tumbling with stainless steel pins - I use this.
  4. Cleaning by hand with an emery pad or similar - I occasionally do this.

Take your time and read lots before you buy any kit. Look at the kit other folk use if possible.

Good luck.

JCS
 
Dr. Strangelove said:
You should be able to edit it by clicking the three little dots down in the bottom left of the post. That brings up a menu with a few options. Might be wise so you keep everyone on here happy!
Click to expand...
Don't appear to have the 3 three dots although I'm signed in. Maybe I havent posted enough or something.
All please note I stand corrected that head should read bullet :doh:

Thanks for your comments re cleaning jcampbellsmith.
 
Lee equipment is a good place to start. Some look down their noses at it because it is cheap and in some ways looks a bit agricultural but it is in general simple, cheap and efficient. Some of the big retailers offer starter sets which have a press and powder measure and are enough to get you going, like this from Sportsman Gun Centre: Sportsman Gun Centre All you need in addition is a set of dies, again for a beginner look at Lee, they are very simple to set up and use and produce perfectly good ammunition reloads. I see you are in Dorset, if the Sportsman Gun Centre is convenient it is possibly worth going in there where you can see the kit and asking for their advice. Also you can't buy primers and powder remotely, you have to be in the shop and if they don't know you they will want to see an FAC.
 
Joe.destinct said:
  • Brass (I have once fired federal & hornady brass + nickel plated Federal brass) should I just be using one type?
Click to expand...

Generally each make of brass varies in dimensions/characteristics so when you are developing a load use only one type of brass.
 
Hi joe
I've just started reloading and have acquired all sorts of bits others who I have bought things from on this site have also given other bits.
I'll see what I can give you if you require any brass cleaning (wet steel pins) and you want to post to me I'll do them FOC no issues what so ever. I am sure others will assist you wherever possible I've only made baby steps so cant assist you with knowledge sorry
Regards philk
 
PHILK said:
Hi joe
I've just started reloading and have acquired all sorts of bits others who I have bought things from on this site have also given other bits.
I'll see what I can give you if you require any brass cleaning (wet steel pins) and you want to post to me I'll do them FOC no issues what so ever. I am sure others will assist you wherever possible I've only made baby steps so cant assist you with knowledge sorry
Regards philk
Click to expand...
Thank you Philk, thats really kind!
 
Here is a tip when reloading for .243

IF your 243 is a 1-10 twist then the likelihood of being able to use 100gr boat tail through your rifle will be slim to none, every rifle IS different but the .243 prefers a spitzer bullet (flat back) over any boat tails.

I personally get bullet on bullet results at 100m with my Browning but it was a long slog to get there. However I have found the Sierra Pro Hunter 100gr sptzr bullets are very accurate and on my rifle they fly at 3065fps with RE19 43gr of powder.

So if you have issues with boat tail bullets try the spitzers instead.
 
Lee kit's are plenty good enough to start off with and you can pretty much get cracking with what comes with the kit short of dies. It also wont break the bank.

I am using the same "projectiles" as you in .243 and use Vhit N160, started at 40 grains and worked up to 42.5, Federal primers.

Have fun.
 
Thanks Tulloch that's good to know, will see how I get on, I liked the terminal performance of the gameking so will look at another sierra bullet if they don't work.
Hoping I've secured a rockchucker second hand now so just the rest to piece together.

I'll get a manual and look out for some dies on here etc.

Can someone advise if i need RCBS dies or are they a standard size and thread?
 
Joe.destinct said:
Thanks Tulloch that's good to know, will see how I get on, I liked the terminal performance of the gameking so will look at another sierra bullet if they don't work.
Hoping I've secured a rockchucker second hand now so just the rest to piece together.

I'll get a manual and look out for some dies on here etc.

Can someone advise if i need RCBS dies or are they a standard size and thread?
Click to expand...
Standard. 7/8" X .... forgotten.
 
Any die set will do the job. To some extent the more you spend the better they tend to get....actually to be fair Lee seating dies are pretty decent but I’ve had a couple of doggy fl sizing dies from them. The other thing you want is some imperial sizing wax....be under no illusion at sometime in the near future your gonna get a case stuck in your die....the sizing wax reduces that chance better than most other products until you forget to use it on one!
 
I went with considerably less expenditure when starting (about£120, i think), but depends if you want to dip a toe or leap right in.
You may also want dial or digital calipers to make sure case lengths and overall lengths are correct.
There's a little Lee chamfer thing for chanfering case mouths. Dirt cheap but useful.
As with scales, digital is probably fine although I prefer dial / balance because I can see if they're not working properly. Have experience of putting more and more material on digital scales with implausibly small changes in reading.
Whatever you choose, be sure that you get repeatable reliable readings. E.g. weigh or measure the same thing several times ...preferably on a different day to make sure kit and technique are sound.
I clean cases by hand with 0000 wire wool. I don't do many cases at a time but it's essentially free and less kit. It's not essential that the cases are gleaming and polished to the nth degree.
 
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