Are you using graphite for anything? If so you should read this

Weapons coatings Products - Sandstrom Coating Technologies Sandstrom 28A is what I put on rifles. Note the website shows it on such. It is the coating on M16s and variations.


I add a teaspoon of the above to the last quart of motor oil I add per oil change. Soon as it is added start engine and drive about 15 miles and it should be everywhere in your engine. Been using this last 600,000+ miles. I also add to oil in generators. Learned about this in the Corrosion Control course mentioned in OP. Note: Oil filters (per manufacturer) advised me that filter will pass up to five microns. You should check with yours before use. I use FRAM filters. The Moly above is only 1 1/2 microns and flows freely though filters. I have disassembled used filters and there is no build up of moly therein.
A bottle of the above I estimate will last 20+ years. There is a oil in Europe that comes with moly already in it.


DO NOT ADD TO TRANSMISSIONS, the synchronizers won't work when gears are changed.

I add 1/4 teaspoon to power steering reservoir.

If you are involved with aircraft maintenance you will be familiar with Aeroshell 33 grease. Moly is now in it as well.
 
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Some of what is written about graphite sounds a bit like 1st April. Saying that I would, not use graphite if possible. Nor some of the other minerals however it depends on the conditions. Teflon seems more inert and would be my choice as solid additive.
Rev gain in 2 stroke racing engines was quite high with Teflon as well as reduced lube intervals on ejectors of injection moulds.
edi
 
We were told in the Corrosion Control and Prevention of Material Deterioration that teflon under higher pressure will for lack of a better term squirt out. Moly has been added to MILSPEC grease but I am not aware of any teflon having been.
 
Weapons coatings Products - Sandstrom Coating Technologies Sandstrom 28A is what I put on rifles. Note the website shows it on such. It is the coating on M16s and variations.


I add a teaspoon of the above to the last quart of motor oil I add per oil change. Soon as it is added start engine and drive about 15 miles and it should be everywhere in your engine. Been using this last 600,000+ miles. I also add to oil in generators. Learned about this in the Corrosion Control course mentioned in OP. Note: Oil filters (per manufacturer) advised me that filter will pass up to five microns. You should check with yours before use. I use FRAM filters. The Moly above is only 1 1/2 microns and flows freely though filters. I have disassembled used filters and there is no build up of moly therein.
A bottle of the above I estimate will last 20+ years. There is a oil in Europe that comes with moly already in it.


DO NOT ADD TO TRANSMISSIONS, the synchronizers won't work when gears are changed.

I add 1/4 teaspoon to power steering reservoir.

If you are involved with aircraft maintenance you will be familiar with Aeroshell 33 grease. Moly is now in it as well.

Why not use Moly Slip engine additive been around for years
 
I have about half of a 25kg sack of flake graphite left after 25 years regular use...I used it mixed with Renaissance Wax for lubricating the punch and drifts when putting holes through hot metal. I have gone on to use Molyslip brand Metal Working Fluid (MWF) which is a molybdenum disulphide mix...the advantage being it stays gloopy in the open tin beside the press almost indefinitely, my home mixed graphite wax white spirit evaporates and needs rediluting very couple of months....the disadvantage is the pong of burning MWF...the burning graphite and wax is relatively fragrant!

I use flake graphite mixed with eggshell paint, which is burnished just as it is getting to touch dry to give an irony appearance which brings back the hot worked texture of forged metal and reduces the plasticky appearance of gloss paint over galvanised or zinc flame metalised steelwork.

I also use it in a puffer to get into brass and steel door lock mechanisms and have frequently used a soft point graphite pencil to give me an emergency point lubrication on binding steel mechanisms...the bolt lugs on my Finnfire was one of the recent occasions.

The two things most people seem to overlook with regard to galvanic corrosion is that it only occurs in the presence of an electrolyte...no electrolyte no corrosion. The relative surface area of the dissimilar metals is also significant.

In graphite grease, as most grease is non-conductive, I assumed as long as the grease carrier was present there would be no electrolyte enabling the graphite to make a galvanic couple with the bearing surfaces.

The relative surface area of the two dissimilar materials is important. A copper rivet in the middle of an aluminium sheet will last a long time even with electrolyte around, whereas an aluminium rivet in a copper sheet would last ten minutes. The surface area effect is why using stainless fixings in mild steel structures is okay and will last longer than mild steel fixings in mild steel structures...mild steel fixings in stainless steel structures is the no no.

The relative surface area of a graphite pencil line across an aluminium panel causing it to fail is a real surprise to me, and goes against that normal area relationship.

Alan
 
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Yep graphite is a lubricant in moisture and a abrasive when there is none, thus that is why if you get your brakes wet you can't stop. They put it in brake shoes. As a result that is why aluminum wheel rims now come coated with plastic to stop them from corroding.
 
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