Newbie with Parker Hale Scout Q

Lanks

Member
I've looked down the many PH threads and searched the net but can find little on this, I'm hoping my first post will come up trumps?

I know little about so please tell me if I'm wrong (I am here to learn).





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Here is my rifle .308 PH Scout or 1300s is it known as? It has a rail fitted into the forend which allows me to adjust the forend stop and bipod. Its like the rail I used to have on an old target .22 I used when I was a lad. It has a floating barrel also which I'm not sure if its standard?

Its great condition and I seem to be able to get pretty good groups in out to 150yrds.

My questions are.

I thinking of going for a moderator to help with noise and the recoil. As you can see the barrel is short 20'' with a screw on muzzlebreak. Can anyone tell me the thread size and what mod I could go for please. Pro's/con's

The next thing I'd like to know is how to strip the action down a bit more, I clean it after use but would like to know more. The safety is a little stiff but its intermitent? I've searched but cant find a breakdown for it.

Well I hope someone can help.

Cheers

L
 
Sorry I do not know the thread size but you might try enquiring with Norman Clark, he or Bill who works there, might just know.

As for the safety well remove the stock and examine the trigger it might have some muck under the lever or it may just require a tweek. I believe that on Norman Clarks website there is a schematic of the P-H rifles but not the 1300S. Oh yes it was available in two claibres .243 Win and .308 Win with 5 round and 10 round magazines. The rifle was fairly aimed at the bolt action "practical Rifle" shooters.
 
Thanks for that, I was getting worried no one would help.

I'll see what I can find from them.

Cheers

If not I think I'll sell this one or partX for something else, see for I get on selling my shotgun.
 
I've had a look at the diagrams looks pretty simple.

Could you also give me a bit of a run through on what to watch for and adjust.

Also any advice on lighter loads bullet heads, I'm shooting 165 fusions at the moment.

Cheers
 
Well here is the instructions fro trigger set up and adjustement:-

P-HTriggeradjustmentInstructions.jpg


You might like to try the Sako 123 grn ammunition for factory or I believe some do a 125 grn or 130grn factory loading. I was loading the Hornady 130 SP over Hodgdons BLC-2 powder for good results.
 
Thanks that is excellent I'll take a look this weekend.

Will keep a lookout for some ammo too.

Thanks

So I can take the muzzlebreak off, what kinda difference do you thing I'll get out of adding a mod?
 
I have the same rifle-308, and was talking to bill at norman clark last week and he said the muzzlebrake was either 14x1 or 15x1.My scout is 15x1 and i am also looking for a mod.
 
Thanks that is excellent I'll take a look this weekend.

Will keep a lookout for some ammo too.

Thanks

So I can take the muzzlebreak off, what kinda difference do you thing I'll get out of adding a mod?

The only way to find out just how much difference a moderator will make I am afraid is to try one.
 
my mate has one in 308 and shoots privi 150 through it . it is a extremly accurate rifle .he got a spare mag from norman clark as his were a bit worn .he fitted a ase utra mod on it and it shoots a dream . budget 308 for £250
 
Thanks for the prior info all.

Rifle is sorted and doing well just need the mod. Its a 14-1 but cant find a ultra?
Any other tips or anyone know of one around, got the slot!

Cheers
 
I have a PH Scout in 308 too and use an ASE UTRA S5. Works very well at reducing noise (alot!) and recoil. It's a bit heavy but very short. You can still buy them new. Bit on the pricey side though.
 
I just bought a PH Scout in .308, thread is 15x1 and fitted a PES large muzzle can, groups well with both 150g and 123g sako.

Ten round mag was worn, I tried Norman Clark to get a five round version (or a less worn ten round) and I was told they were like rocking horse .....
Found a solution - one band of 2" electricians tape around the mag where it sits in the housing and two thin strips on the rear of the mag over the seating lug. These were smoothed right down and cut with scisors so as to get clean edge no bubbles etc.

Not only does this make the mag seat and feed properly it also eliminates the slight cluncking noise as the mag moved when the rifle was slung - or moved from the slung position to the shoulder. No problems with mag removal or insertion and although it has only been loaded unloaded about 20 times it seems to have worked a treat.

Next project, if I can't locate an unworn mag is to try to get a five round one made. Any ideas?
 
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