Bullet Drop Very Different To Calculator

[Tris88]

Happy to provide marksmanship lessons

 

[Mungo]

Thanks everyone for such useful suggestions.

I am a practical accuracy sort of chap. I shoot at living targets most of the time and have the respect to test ranges first. I’ve usually shot out to a max of 130 yards, some new land has no cover and requires some longer shots up to 200. I am keen to know where my bullet goes. So I’ll be setting up a plethora of targets at varying range to confirm.

I don’t like relying on data without trying it, as so many of you have suggested, I don’t need the chrono because I’ll be testing anyway, an inch is close enough to get me on the paper and fine tune.

To answer some of your questions:
@Mungo five rounds fired at 200yards, pretty confident shooting at or below 1/2” MOA

@Rider both are yards

@8x57 & @Donkey Basher this is definitely the way forward, at least I know where I’m going to place the rounds in reality. When I had the rifle on a bench at the range I shot 1/4” MOA with my 8x56, I could probably dial a bit more accuracy in but do I really need to? 1/2” in the field with my 6x42 seems accurate enough for me.

Thanks again to everyone for your advice, I think I’ll skip the chrono and just use approximation to get me on paper then dial it in with testing on targets in the field.

So what size were your groups?

I’m not convinced that 5 shots is enough to confirm a 1” difference at 200m.

 

[Tris88]

So what size were your groups?

I’m not convinced that 5 shots is enough to confirm a 1” difference at 200m.

About 1/4” at 100 to zero and 1 1/4” at 200 then a second volley at 1”

 

[25 Sharps]

Try a different powder the one you are using is giving you a terrible case fill and probably lower than predicted velocity.

Use something slower burning to suit 143 gr bullets

 

[Tris88]

Try a different powder the one you are using is giving you a terrible case fill and probably lower than predicted velocity.

Use something slower burning to suit 143 gr bullets

I’m about to change to copper soon probably a 120gr, have you got a powder recommendation?
My local shop stocks Alliant powders.

 

[25 Sharps]

N150 will suit 120s better, I only load 129/140s in the creed but run 120s in the swede.

RS60/RL17 would be good but hard on your barrel if for range use

 

[Tris88]

N150 will suit 120s better, I only load 129/140s in the creed but run 120s in the swede.

RS60/RL17 would be good but hard on your barrel if for range use

My concern is Viht quote the n-150 pretty slow, max 2454fps. My understanding is it’s better to speed up the copper?

I don’t really do a lot of range work, probably shoot 400 a year through the gun.

 

[Mungo]

About 1/4” at 100 to zero and 1 1/4” at 200 then a second volley at 1”

Have you got a picture?

 

[Tris88]

Have you got a picture?

I didn’t take one I’m afraid. What would you be looking for? Structure of the groups?

 

[Mungo]

I didn’t take one I’m afraid. What would you be looking for? Structure of the groups?

Yes - it would really help to work out how confident you can be in the true drop.

 

[25 Sharps]

My concern is Viht quote the n-150 pretty slow, max 2454fps. My understanding is it’s better to speed up the copper?

I don’t really do a lot of range work, probably shoot 400 a year through the gun.

N150 is unsuitable for 140s as it is a little too fast and pressure peaks too soon, which is why you max out at 34 grains in a case capable of holding 45 grains of powder. you need a slower powder to smooth out the pressure curve. As bullets get lighter you need fast powders so you will get better velocity.

If however you want fast, like 3000 FPS plus you need a suitable burn rate double base / high energy powder. RS60 should work well for you in this application

 

[Tris88]

Yes - it would really help to work out how confident you can be in the true drop.

Ah ok, when the wind drops again I’ll get out and remember to photograph it

 

[Tris88]

N150 is unsuitable for 140s as it is a little too fast and pressure peaks too soon, which is why you max out at 34 grains in a case capable of holding 45 grains of powder. you need a slower powder to smooth out the pressure curve. As bullets get lighter you need fast powders so you will get better velocity.

If however you want fast, like 3000 FPS plus you need a suitable burn rate double base / high energy powder. RS60 should work well for you in this application

Ace, thanks for that.

 

[25 Sharps]

Ace, thanks for that.

The nosler site is good as they use different powder manufacturers

Looks like RS60/RL17 ( same powder ) or Ramshot Hunter are your best bet, ramshot may be better for your barrel

Nosler Load Data

Explore the world of Nosler, renowned for crafting the finest bullets, ammunition, rifles, and brass. Discover our extensive lineup, including Partition, AccuBond, E-Tip, Ballistic Tip, Custom Competition, and more. Experience superior quality and performance with Nosler products.

load-data.nosler.com

as you can see for Hunter you’re using 48.5 gr of powder at max load which is a much better case fill, just be aware that your lead free bullet will be longer and leave less space for powder so make sure you start at minimum load and work up slowly

 

[jcampbellsmith]

Triss88
Have a look at this data too - Rifle reloading data | Handloading | Rifle calibers | Centerfire Rifle bullets | Reload your own ammo - Vihtavuori
Regards
JCS

 

[Tris88]

@25 Sharps I see what you mean, I may even go down to a lower bullet weight to make it easier firing it faster. I never saw barnes do a 100gr, considering most of my deer are (and will be) Roe and Muntjac at less than 250 yards I think it may be better suited to the job.

Thanks @jcampbellsmith that's the data I currently go off for my Vhit powders. To me it made sense to follow the manufactures load data, as I'm so new to it all.

 

[Milligan]

@25 Sharps I see what you mean, I may even go down to a lower bullet weight to make it easier firing it faster. I never saw barnes do a 100gr, considering most of my deer are (and will be) Roe and Muntjac at less than 250 yards I think it may be better suited to the job.

Thanks @jcampbellsmith that's the data I currently go off for my Vhit powders. To me it made sense to follow the manufactures load data, as I'm so new to it all.

Sure, I think jcampbell meant look at the powder spread, you are on the fast end of it hence low case fill and velocity. A slower powder will likely be more consistent and get you the higher velocity.

 

[antsa]

I've been hand-loading for 11 years. Using book data I selected best group at 100m. Zeroed on this and then field tested for drops at 200 and 300m. About three years ago I purchased a chronometer and started measuring my MVs. Now, after determining my load, I measure MV and input this together with atmospheric data into my iPhone apps (Shooter and/or AB Mobile) and generate drop tables. With these tables I get first round hits on clay pigeons (200m, 300m) with my .22 CFs and .308 and on steel gongs out to 800m with my .260 Rem.
I'm not a "group shooter" except when load developing and I don't hunt much beyond 300m. And for an old bloke like me it's great fun ringing steel at the range a couple of times a month.
Get yourself a chrono and an app. Negligible cost compared to all the dosh you splurge on rifles, optics, powder, brass and projectiles.

Cheers

 

[Cloudhopper]

Exactly this^^^. Don't guesstimate velocities, get a chronograph. Determine load by published data and grouping at 100m. Then use the phone app to obtain drop adjustments. I use Shooter Ballistics and Strelok Pro and they work very well.
CH

 

[Tris88]

Exactly this^^^. Don't guesstimate velocities, get a chronograph. Determine load by published data and grouping at 100m. Then use the phone app to obtain drop adjustments. I use Shooter Ballistics and Strelok Pro and they work very well.
CH

Could you explain to me the benefits though?

As far as I see it I’d want to verify the drop anyway.