Sauer 202 vs Tikka T3X

[Ben23]

I’m glad I’ve managed to get some sort of Tikka Sauer rivalry going...

My current inclination towards the Sauer is quite simply: new lefty T3 is £1,200 rifle only. Sauer 202 (used) rifle only is £1,000. And new is probably double? Maybe more..?

So I’m not saying a bad word against the Tikka of course, and they’re undoubtedly accurate! I love them. But the Sauer sees like a good gun for the money, and also doesn’t have a 9 month lead time...

 

[Border]

This was similar to how I came to own a 202....and it happened again about two years ago when I thought about an additional rifle and Steve Beaty (who see’s some pretty nice rifles) stated that the one he keeps in his own cabinet is a 202.

I also bought a Sako to see what all the fuss was about and I don’t really see it, it’s ok but hasn’t got the feel of the Sauer.

The Sauer has a super slick bolt, a trigger with no creep and that breaks like glass, a well engineered firm stock and silent safety that is also slick, and they are extremely accurate from what I have seen and the ones I have owned.

I never understood why they stopped making the 202’s.

regards,
Gixer

To sell the 404.
I considered the 202 20+ yrs ago when I bought my first centrefire. I felt that it was a bit 2×4" handling, ie a bit high like an O/U shotgun and not so comfortable to me as the Sako 75 that I ended up with. The finnish rifles don't have the same german engineering but feel "agriculturally reassuring".
I have mates that have various Sauer 202 models. The safety is loved by some and hated by others. There have been issues with alloy receivers and stripped mounting threads and problems with getting the barrel centred in the channel.
They are on the whole accurate, well engineered rifles.

 

[Sako3006]

The Sauer 202, IMHO was and stil is the best rifle Sauer ever made. The Tikka is a great out of the box rifle and again only my opinion, the best in its class. The 202 would be the first choice, but keep in mind,they are no longer made and parts are starting to become a bit harder to find.

 

[Leroux]

How accurate are 202s? I have never used one.
From personal experience I would go for the T3. I love mine. Shot out the original barrel. It would shoot sub half MOA with more or less whatever I fed it. Still does with its new barrel on.
The stock I have on it now is better than any factory offering I have seen and I see no reason to change. I love the rifle and although it is very much a tool it gives me pleasure to own it due to knowing how brilliantly accurate it is.

However I am biased as none of the rifles in my cabinet are standard.

Get whatever will give you the most pleasure of ownership. For me, that is a tool that is weatherproof and awesomely accurate.

Never found factory ammo that my Sauer did not like. Very very accurate.

 

[reiver]

The Sauer 202, IMHO was and stil is the best rifle Sauer ever made. The Tikka is a great out of the box rifle and again only my opinion, the best in its class. The 202 would be the first choice, but keep in mind,they are no longer made and parts are starting to become a bit harder to find.

plenty of Manufactures making spares parts and barrels in Germany inc Lothar Walther .I just need to finish my house and then i am ordering a 9.3x62 barrel from them .
The 202 is still much loved and appreciated on the continent.
Good taste never goes out of fashion .just a shame they got swallowed up by Blazer just like Mauser ..

 

[glasshalffull]

Only know a few Sauer 202 owners, they all had issues with their rifles.
T3 has so much more to offer. Saying that if you only want to look at the gun in the safe the Sauer will do. I am not a fan of these over engineered German rifles. If one is after a more traditional, honest and properly built rifle the Heym SR21 or Schultz & Larsen would be a better choice in my opinion.
edi

Never had a issue with three I've had bud

 

[Colonel]

I have 2 202s and a Tikka 695 Hunter deluxe, all are very accurate, but I just love the Sauer rifles

 

[Sonicdmb73]

How accurate are 202s? I have never used one.
From personal experience I would go for the T3. I love mine. Shot out the original barrel. It would shoot sub half MOA with more or less whatever I fed it. Still does with its new barrel on.
The stock I have on it now is better than any factory offering I have seen and I see no reason to change. I love the rifle and although it is very much a tool it gives me pleasure to own it due to knowing how brilliantly accurate it is.

However I am biased as none of the rifles in my cabinet are standard.

Get whatever will give you the most pleasure of ownership. For me, that is a tool that is weatherproof and awesomely accurate.

So by your own admission you’ve never used a 202.
But you would advise that the OP should by a T3 that you have one of. But it isn’t really is it? You have had an aftermarket barrel and stock fitted.

We’ve got Ben giving his two penneth that basically takes a T3 and throws nearly the asking price again at it to get it right.

Or you can just buy the over engineered piece of German sh*t that EJG says it is.
Then you can take advantage of the fact that there’s no bedding issue, there isn’t anything to bed. You can take advantage of the fact it takes apart for cleaning or to make it less obtrusive to carry.
Or the fact that with the same bolt, action and mags. You can have anything from a 220 Swift to a 35 Whelen for the sake of four bolts and in my case a couple more to change scopes.

Oh and just another thought, my Sako 75 action one in 20 Tac with a semi Varmint profile barrel weighs more than my Sauer 202 with a ASE SL5 mod on it.

I can order another barrel and the ‘smith will sort it for me. Whilst I carry on using the rifle. When it’s ready for proof I can take my rifle and off it goes. A matter of days not months without it.
I can put on the wooden stock if I am going somewhere posh. Or leave it’s synthetic one on if the weather is poor.
I can take the stock off completely and dry the rifle off with no worries about loss of zero. Try that with your standard action rifles.
I can also with the use of a torque screwdriver change the barrel and scope with no loss of zero.

I will be having a 20 Tac barrel made at some point. To go with a 222 bolt and mag. I intend to add something at the top end 35 Whelen of similar. With two of three actions and a few varied barrels. I can cover most quarry I am likely to want to. All that with a 5mm Allen key.

 

[Scandially]

Correct.... well said.
I have two 202's and a Sako 85.....tools for the job, yes just like comparing a Snap On toolkit to a Halfords offering.

 

[Muntybuck5803]

So by your own admission you’ve never used a 202.
But you would advise that the OP should by a T3 that you have one of. But it isn’t really is it? You have had an aftermarket barrel and stock fitted.

We’ve got Ben giving his two penneth that basically takes a T3 and throws nearly the asking price again at it to get it right.

Or you can just buy the over engineered piece of German sh*t that EJG says it is.
Then you can take advantage of the fact that there’s no bedding issue, there isn’t anything to bed. You can take advantage of the fact it takes apart for cleaning or to make it less obtrusive to carry.
Or the fact that with the same bolt, action and mags. You can have anything from a 220 Swift to a 35 Whelen for the sake of four bolts and in my case a couple more to change scopes.

Oh and just another thought, my Sako 75 action one in 20 Tac with a semi Varmint profile barrel weighs more than my Sauer 202 with a ASE SL5 mod on it.

I can order another barrel and the ‘smith will sort it for me. Whilst I carry on using the rifle. When it’s ready for proof I can take my rifle and off it goes. A matter of days not months without it.
I can put on the wooden stock if I am going somewhere posh. Or leave it’s synthetic one on if the weather is poor.
I can take the stock off completely and dry the rifle off with no worries about loss of zero. Try that with your standard action rifles.
I can also with the use of a torque screwdriver change the barrel and scope with no loss of zero.

I will be having a 20 Tac barrel made at some point. To go with a 222 bolt and mag. I intend to add something at the top end 35 Whelen of similar. With two of three actions and a few varied barrels. I can cover most quarry I am likely to want to. All that with a 5mm Allen key.

Yep, and as stated it would shoot sub half inch before I changed anything. For me that is the most important thing. As I highlighted in my post.
Strangely enough it’s what’s known as an opinion. The T3 is what I would go for - for all the reasons that made me choose it in the first place. Accuracy and more aftermarket equipment to tailor it to your needs.
I apologise that my opinion is obviously wrong but the OP was asking what I would choose. I would choose a T3 over and over again.
It’s an accurate tool and that’s what I need.
Are we not allowed to have our own opinions here?

 

[Brave Echo Niner]

So by your own admission you’ve never used a 202.
But you would advise that the OP should by a T3 that you have one of. But it isn’t really is it? You have had an aftermarket barrel and stock fitted.

We’ve got Ben giving his two penneth that basically takes a T3 and throws nearly the asking price again at it to get it right.

Or you can just buy the over engineered piece of German sh*t that EJG says it is.

Maybe I have got the wrong idea of pricing, my suggestion was a factory barrelled action, which you put into an aftermarket stock and have bedded. To my mind for a 2nd hand barrelled action of a T3 you would look 750 max, with examples coming up at various prices beneath that. Then maybe 500 for an aftermarket stock plus whatever the gunsmith charges for bedding (or if you’re brave enough do it yourself?) so a total of 1250 plus any Labour, so in a similar price point?
My comment about rebarreling was meant as a ‘when it’s shot out’ measure, rather than immediately, although it is obviously always an option.

While some people have used somewhat emotive language when speaking about the 202 there is no doubt in my mind that it will work and that many people use them, we merely are putting forwards another option, the road we would be going down were we in the same position.

Kind regards,

Ben

 

[Ronin]

The 202 is a lovely rifle

The 200 str is the better option as it does not have the awful two piece stock that is the side of accuracy issues seen some (but not all) 202 models

The split stock design is in my view a flaw of an otherwise perfect stalking rifle

Ive shot many 202’s and all suffered from two together and one away grouping tendencies (with factory ammo under test conditions) having been asked to test fore because of accuracy concerns

The root cause being the fore stock

I’ll add that I own a SSG3000 (which is in essence a Sauer str 200 ) - one of the most accurate rifles I own

The Tikka T3 is not manufactured to the same quality of finish as the Sauer stable rifles

But

All and I mean all I have worked on, shot or seen shoot are reliably accurate and easy to repair should there be an issue

The triggers are superb and in complicated

The bolt runs as smooth as the Sauer

The action solid and one length (like the Sauer)

They can be converted to long or short action use easily (like the Sauer)

Practical use - the Tikka wins hands down in my view for all round stalking and culling work

The Sauer (202) would be a rifle I’d take to the hill with a ghillie for occasional use

Just my view

 

[kripton]

Only know a few Sauer 202 owners, they all had issues with their rifles.
T3 has so much more to offer. Saying that if you only want to look at the gun in the safe the Sauer will do. I am not a fan of these over engineered German rifles. If one is after a more traditional, honest and properly built rifle the Heym SR21 or Schultz & Larsen would be a better choice in my opinion.
edi

Agreed 100% - I have Heym SR30 in 7x57 and Schultz & Larsen in .308 -both very accurate if I do my bit. I had a Sauer 202 but sold it as the tightness of the forend bolt was absolutely critical - too loose and it rattled and was inconsistent, too tight and it contacted the barrel either one side or (if the bolt was really tight) on the underneath and was inconsistent.

 

[Sonicdmb73]

Yep, and as stated it would shoot sub half inch before I changed anything. For me that is the most important thing. As I highlighted in my post.
Strangely enough it’s what’s known as an opinion. The T3 is what I would go for - for all the reasons that made me choose it in the first place. Accuracy and more aftermarket equipment to tailor it to your needs.
I apologise that my opinion is obviously wrong but the OP was asking what I would choose. I would choose a T3 over and over again.
It’s an accurate tool and that’s what I need.
Are we not allowed to have our own opinions here?

So the OP asked about two rifles and quoted the prices £1000 for the secondhand Sauer and a further £200 to get a T3. Now the other consideration is he’s left handed. So there’s a limit on left handed rifles and accessories for them.
While I don’t doubt that the T3 is capable of 1/2 MOA. Many people that own them seem to end up spending money on new stocks and bedding etc.
So Sauer 202 at £1000.
Or a £1200 Tikka with a £600+ stock and a £300 bedding job you have just doubled his budget.

I can get spares and new barrels both factory and custom. I have a Picatinny rail and can swap and change scopes etc without loosing zero. I can take the rifle down to it’s component parts and not have to worry about loosing zero.
I have owned lots of different makes and types of rifle over the years. While the Sauer is not without fault it is an easily sorted one. The fore end/stock bolt needs tightening correctly or it can touch the barrel. Causing the problems @Ronin has mentioned. The solution is a torque screwdriver, something which I would recommend for changing barrels etc anyway.
You are entitled to your opinion of course. But a lack of experience of both types of rifle/action lacks in objectivity of having both.
If you want to carry on and buy the T3’s and spend money getting them right. That’s fine by me, I will be able to buy myself more 202’s with less competition on price.

Maybe I have got the wrong idea of pricing, my suggestion was a factory barrelled action, which you put into an aftermarket stock and have bedded. To my mind for a 2nd hand barrelled action of a T3 you would look 750 max, with examples coming up at various prices beneath that. Then maybe 500 for an aftermarket stock plus whatever the gunsmith charges for bedding (or if you’re brave enough do it yourself?) so a total of 1250 plus any Labour, so in a similar price point?
My comment about rebarreling was meant as a ‘when it’s shot out’ measure, rather than immediately, although it is obviously always an option.

While some people have used somewhat emotive language when speaking about the 202 there is no doubt in my mind that it will work and that many people use them, we merely are putting forwards another option, the road we would be going down were we in the same position.

Kind regards,

Ben

 

[Muntybuck5803]

You are entitled to your opinion of course.

Yep

 

[rem284]

Having had a 202 and a t3, I wouldn't have either of them again. Both only done a 1.5 moa. Both malfunctioned. 202 done it 3 times and each time it went to the gunsmith who couldn't find the fault. The t3 single screw that holds the trigger on came loose and therefore discharged when the safety was put back on.

 

[Sonicdmb73]

Having had a 202 and a t3, I wouldn't have either of them again. Both only done a 1.5 moa. Both malfunctioned. 202 done it 3 times and each time it went to the gunsmith who couldn't find the fault. The t3 single screw that holds the trigger on came loose and therefore discharged when the safety was put back on.

I don’t doubt that they can and do go wrong. However that is the case with most things.
There’s a long list of things that have gone wrong. Some more so than others.

Do you reload or use factory ammunition?
If the latter how many brands and weights did you try?
As I agree that is poor accuracy from any modern action.

 

[rem284]

I don’t doubt that they can and do go wrong. However that is the case with most things.
There’s a long list of things that have gone wrong. Some more so than others.

Do you reload or use factory ammunition?
If the latter how many brands and weights did you try?
As I agree that is poor accuracy from any modern action.

Only allowed to use factory. Tried several brand, types etc.

 

[308rws]

BLUF - you'll not go wrong with whichever one you choose. Best to test fire both yourself to better inform your decision.

 

[gixer1]

Having had a 202 and a t3, I wouldn't have either of them again. Both only done a 1.5 moa. Both malfunctioned. 202 done it 3 times and each time it went to the gunsmith who couldn't find the fault. The t3 single screw that holds the trigger on came loose and therefore discharged when the safety was put back on.

I had a similar issue with a T3, trigger mechanism came loose and it fired when I closed the bolt...which is why I will stay away from the T3’s....I bought a T1X and was very suspicious of that just in case.

can’t say I’ve had any such issues with a Sauer.