Maximum point blank range

Agreed & which is also why you need to be realistic about the size of what you'll be shooting at (comparing a red stag to a rabbit for instance)
In all seriousness MPBR can be very useful

When distances are unknown and shots are taken quickly then a rifle zeroed so that a 50 to 250 m shot won't deviate beyond a (you set it) height + / - really is invaluable

At the risk of stating the obvious - the forces use this concept a lot - Americans call it ''battle sight zero'' I believe

However

If you have the time

and

If you have a range meter (so know the distance)

Then dialling is just as good

For stalking I use a 2 -16 z8i which is fitted with a ballistic turret - I know all my come-ups/downs from 50m to 600m and they are numbered on the turret

View attachment 230182

My heavier calibres are regulated at 60m - no time to faff and I'm not going to shoot beyond about 100m when shooting for the pot - so MPBR employed here

When shooting target I know my dial ups to the 0.5 of a weasel's left testicle

So MPBR is part of the arsenal but not the only answer

Not sure if this waffle helps
All helps mate, I'm new to the centerfire world
 
I know a lot who do, and usually blame their misses on either their technique or equipment.

Get to know your ballistics or 'drops' and this method becomes redundant, even more so if you have a dial scope or reticle which aids holdovers.

Ignorance of your bullet's flight path can lead to embarrassing moments such as bullets striking overhead branches in tight forestry or worse still overhanging rocks.

Bear in mind that the bullet falls under the influence of gravity to moment it leaves the barrel so you scope (or reticle line) will always be angled downwards relative to the muzzle.

@Yorric (RIP) related an incident shooting goats where the view in the scope was clear but due to the uphill angle the shot resulted in a shower of stone chips.

I would later go on to make the same mistake!

MPBR only applies if you know your 'margin for error' (such as 4-6 inches from 'point blank' out to 300 yards), then you work out your optimum zero distance relative to the ballistics of your rifle & cartridge combination.

Going '1 inch high at 100' is not MPBR.
Thanks for the input man all is appreciated as I'm new to the world of centerfire
 
If you zero pretty much any deer cartridge 2” high at 100yds or 5cms at 100m you can point and squirt out to about 200whichevers. There’s nothing to stop you using come ups for longer ranges.
The .22 is a great teacher for both drop and windage.
 
If you zero pretty much any deer cartridge 2” high at 100yds or 5cms at 100m you can point and squirt out to about 200whichevers. There’s nothing to stop you using come ups for longer ranges.
The .22 is a great teacher for both drop and windage.
Yeah I've learnt a lot over the last Yr shooting it currently shooting 2" groups with my 223 at just over 100m off quad sticks using hornady frontiers 55gr probably not the best rnd but cheap and im rattling through them getting a feel for the gun etc
 
Yeah I've learnt a lot over the last Yr shooting it currently shooting 2" groups with my 223 at just over 100m off quad sticks using hornady frontiers 55gr probably not the best rnd but cheap and im rattling through them getting a feel for the gun etc
If you’ll take a bit of advice, get off the sticks and practice with the impromptu rests that nature provides. I’m wore out with scrotes that shoot off sticks when there’s a perfectly good hump of mud or bit of a rock that’d give you near benchrest stability.
Safe shooting.
 
If you’ll take a bit of advice, get off the sticks and practice with the impromptu rests that nature provides. I’m wore out with scrotes that shoot off sticks when there’s a perfectly good hump of mud or bit of a rock that’d give you near benchrest stability.
Safe shooting.
Do you use a bipod or a bag or just the humps off mud genuine question no sarcasm 👍
 
Do you use a bipod or a bag or just the humps off mud genuine question no sarcasm 👍
I use bipods and bags on the range, on walk about I use sticks and whatever else is available. Up to last week I had a single thumb stick, I now have a nice set of quads, but I still drop them and crawl if I have to.
I’m too old and stubborn to change now.
 
I use bipods and bags on the range, on walk about I use sticks and whatever else is available. Up to last week I had a single thumb stick, I now have a nice set of quads, but I still drop them and crawl if I have to.
I’m too old and stubborn to change now.
Lol, I'm not exclusively quads ill use stone walls , gates etc if out with others on the lamp, but after switching from the lamp to pard it gives me more time to use quads on foxes and rabbits, I hunt solo 99% of the time so pard has been a game changer for me
 
As has been noted already, 1 or 2 inches high at a hundred is not MPBR.

Following the MPBR process - i.e. the arithmetic part - is an interesting exercise. It does of course require you to have a accurate knowledge of your ballistics, it is not something you can work out accurately with a guesstimate. You need to have triple checked your muzzle velocity and BC at range with drop tests.

There are two fundamental problems with MPBR.

Firstly, MPBR conflicts with the “aim small, miss small” principle. The MPBR principal works on a “near enough is good enough basis” which can have major implications when working close to your calculated maximum range. Because the principal assumes that you are going to aim at the same point on the animal irrespective of range, there is in my experience an increased risk of the bullet striking slightly too low. I’ve done this myself using the MPBR principle with my .308 Win; after years of holding over using a BDC reticle, I tried MPBR and found that I didn’t like the lack of fine control on point of impact.

On one occasion I remember very clearly I shot a red stag at 255yds (the MPBR is 257yds), using a Zeiss duplex reticle on a high quality scope that I decided I needed for improved lowlight transmission. Although I was 100% confident I had the crosshair right on the centre of the 6” vitals zone, the 3½” drop was enough to break the leg and pass through the top of the brisket, underneath the hilar zone. The stag run on 3 legs about 30 yards before starting to go round in circles, and needed a second shot. At that range, that is a fail for me.

I’ve discussed MPBR with guys who have selected some unrealistically large target diameters. I do not agree that a red deer has a 12 inch vital zone! What this does is unnecessarily risk bullets impacting far too low, as it stretches the maximum range in the calculation too far in my opinion.

And this brings us onto the effect of wind. At the maximum range calculated by MPBR, you obviously have to take into account wind, which if you are holding for wind means you are inevitably starting to wander away from the centre of your target circle, which can be quite disconcerting for guys who haven’t maybe got the confidence or experience. I’m sure this is one of the reasons that we see too many shots striking too far back on the animal. All of this is far too imprecise for me.

So after a process, I dropped MPBR and reverted to the aim small, miss small concept. Simply put, aim small, miss small is where you compensate for the bullet drop with a calculated (or well considered) hold over at a very specific part of the deer, using a calibrated BDC reticle. (By calibrated I mean that at a specific magnification the reticle subtensions align with nice round numbers in sensible increments like 50m.) If you use ballistic turrets, then you dial in the elevation required.

Aim small, miss small is in my experience considerably more likely to result in the instant bang flop that we crave, out to ranges that some of you guys get all touchy about. Aim small, miss small forces you to take into account all the factors that MPBR seeks to dumb down - animal position (angle), anatomy, wind, drop. Only short-range snap shooting with powerful rifles can really get away with ignoring this stuff.

The second problem with MPBR is that it requires you to zero your rifle at a far greater range than most people are capable of doing. The constraint they usually run into is access to ground that is able to give them a clear, level line of sight. Even here, a nice level 200m can be devilishly hard to come across because of the topography, At least in a place where you can easily walk backwards and forwards to your target. This makes it difficult for a quick field zero check. On my .300 WSM, the MPBR far zero is 243m - it is impractical.

You also have the problem of what kind of groups you are capable of shooting at that range. By the time you’re out to 200-240m, you’ve got wind effects, your shaky hold, and all sorts of other age related ailments to take into consideration. For guys who are used to shooting at 100m at the range, trying to accept the spread at over 200m for a zero can be quite a challenge.

Of course the bullet passes through the line of sight twice, and the “far zero” is the one that we really want to use, as it will far better reflect where the bullet is going to go afterwards. The “near zero” is usually something like 30m in front of you, and in my experience very short zero ranges are useless for longer range shooting. I’ve tried it and consigned it to the rubbish bin.

I will vary my zero distance slightly for each particular rifle / scope combination to best match the ballistics to the reticle so I get those nice round subtension holdovers. On most decent BDC reticles they come closely calibrated to most common cartridges assuming either a 100 yard or 200 yard zero. So my zero ranges are usually very close to one or the other.

So that’s my take on MPBR. It is a sound principle for most close range stalking as long as you are fully aware of the potential for missing the vitals low, when working close to the maximum range, and the need to have access to a place where you can confidently zero your rifle at the calculated distance. But for me I am shooting close to or beyond the maximum range probably 50% of the time.

My vote will be for aim small, miss small every time as it promotes better precision, with consequent improved probability of instant kills.
 
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As has been noted already, 1 or 2 inches high at a hundred is not MPBR.

Following the MPBR process - i.e. the arithmetic part - is an interesting exercise. It does of course require you to have a accurate knowledge of your ballistics, it is not something you can work out accurately with a guesstimate. You need to have triple checked your muzzle velocity and BC at range with drop tests.

There are two fundamental problems with MPBR.

Firstly, MPBR conflicts with the “aim small, miss small” principle. The MPBR principal works on a “near enough is good enough basis” which can have major implications when working close to your calculated maximum range. Because the principal assumes that you are going to aim at the same point on the animal irrespective of range, there is in my experience an increased risk of the bullet striking slightly too low. I’ve done this myself using the MPBR principle with my .308 Win; after years of holding over using a BDC reticle, I tried MPBR and found that I didn’t like the lack of fine control on point of impact.

On one occasion I remember very clearly I shot a red stag at 255yds (the MPBR is 257yds), using a Zeiss duplex reticle on a high quality scope that I decided I needed for improved lowlight transmission. Although I was 100% confident I had the crosshair right on the centre of the 6” vitals zone, the 3½” drop was enough to break the leg and pass through the top of the brisket, underneath the hilar zone. The stag run on 3 legs about 30 yards before starting to go round in circles, and needed a second shot. At that range, that is a fail for me.

I’ve discussed MPBR with guys who have selected some unrealistically large target diameters. I do not agree that a red deer has a 12 inch vital zone! What this does is unnecessarily risk bullets impacting far too low, as it stretches the maximum range in the calculation too far in my opinion.

And this brings us onto the effect of wind. At the maximum range calculated by MPBR, you obviously have to take into account wind, which if you are holding for wind means you are inevitably starting to wander away from the centre of your target circle, which can be quite disconcerting for guys who haven’t maybe got the confidence or experience. I’m sure this is one of the reasons that we see too many shots striking too far back on the animal. All of this is far too imprecise for me.

So after a process, I dropped MPBR and reverted to the aim small, miss small concept. Simply put, aim small, miss small is where you compensate for the bullet drop with a calculated (or well considered) hold over at a very specific part of the deer, using a calibrated BDC reticle. (By calibrated I mean that at a specific magnification the reticle subtensions align with nice round numbers in sensible increments like 50m.) If you use ballistic turrets, then you dial in the elevation required.

Aim small, miss small is in my experience considerably more likely to result in the instant bang flop that we crave, out to ranges that some of you guys get all touchy about. Aim small, miss small forces you to take into account all the factors that MPBR seeks to dumb down - animal position (angle), anatomy, wind, drop. Only short-range snap shooting with powerful rifles can really get away with ignoring this stuff.

The second problem with MPBR is that it requires you to zero your rifle at a far greater range than most people are capable of doing. The constraint they usually run into is access to ground that is able to give them a clear, level line of sight. Even here, a nice level 200m can be devilishly hard to come across because of the topography, At least in a place where you can easily walk backwards and forwards to your target. This makes it difficult for a quick field zero check. On my .300 WSM, the MPBR far zero is 243m - it is impractical.

You also have the problem of what kind of groups you are capable of shooting at that range. By the time you’re out to 200-240m, you’ve got wind effects, your shaky hold, and all sorts of other age related ailments to take into consideration. For guys who are used to shooting at 100m at the range, trying to accept the spread at over 200m for a zero can be quite a challenge.

Of course the bullet passes through the line of sight twice, and the “far zero” is the one that we really want to use, as it will far better reflect where the bullet is going to go afterwards. The “near zero” is usually something like 30m in front of you, and in my experience very short zero ranges are useless for longer range shooting. I’ve tried it and consigned it to the rubbish bin.

I will vary my zero distance slightly for each particular rifle / scope combination to best match the ballistics to the reticle so I get those nice round subtension holdovers. On most decent BDC reticles they come closely calibrated to most common cartridges assuming either a 100 yard or 200 yard zero. So my zero ranges are usually very close to one or the other.

So that’s my take on MPBR. It is a sound principle for most close range stalking as long as you are fully aware of the potential for missing the vitals low, when working close to the maximum range, and the need to have access to a place where you can confidently zero your rifle at the calculated distance. But for me I am shooting close to or beyond the maximum range probably 50% of the time.

My vote will be for aim small, miss small every time as it promotes better precision, with consequent improved probability of instant kills.
If you pick a 3”( say 6cms ) circle MPBR works fine inside 220yds, 6-8” circles are for guys back in the 70’s with no range finders.
 
As has been noted already, 1 or 2 inches high at a hundred is not MPBR.

Following the MPBR process - i.e. the arithmetic part - is an interesting exercise. It does of course require you to have a accurate knowledge of your ballistics, it is not something you can work out accurately with a guesstimate. You need to have triple checked your muzzle velocity and BC at range with drop tests.

There are two fundamental problems with MPBR.

Firstly, MPBR conflicts with the “aim small, miss small” principle. The MPBR principal works on a “near enough is good enough basis” which can have major implications when working close to your calculated maximum range. Because the principal assumes that you are going to aim at the same point on the animal irrespective of range, there is in my experience an increased risk of the bullet striking slightly too low. I’ve done this myself using the MPBR principle with my .308 Win; after years of holding over using a BDC reticle, I tried MPBR and found that I didn’t like the lack of fine control on point of impact.

On one occasion I remember very clearly I shot a red stag at 255yds (the MPBR is 257yds), using a Zeiss duplex reticle on a high quality scope that I decided I needed for improved lowlight transmission. Although I was 100% confident I had the crosshair right on the centre of the 6” vitals zone, the 3½” drop was enough to break the leg and pass through the top of the brisket, underneath the hilar zone. The stag run on 3 legs about 30 yards before starting to go round in circles, and needed a second shot. At that range, that is a fail for me.

I’ve discussed MPBR with guys who have selected some unrealistically large target diameters. I do not agree that a red deer has a 12 inch vital zone! What this does is unnecessarily risk bullets impacting far too low, as it stretches the maximum range in the calculation too far in my opinion.

And this brings us onto the effect of wind. At the maximum range calculated by MPBR, you obviously have to take into account wind, which if you are holding for wind means you are inevitably starting to wander away from the centre of your target circle, which can be quite disconcerting for guys who haven’t maybe got the confidence or experience. I’m sure this is one of the reasons that we see too many shots striking too far back on the animal. All of this is far too imprecise for me.

So after a process, I dropped MPBR and reverted to the aim small, miss small concept. Simply put, aim small, miss small is where you compensate for the bullet drop with a calculated (or well considered) hold over at a very specific part of the deer, using a calibrated BDC reticle. (By calibrated I mean that at a specific magnification the reticle subtensions align with nice round numbers in sensible increments like 50m.) If you use ballistic turrets, then you dial in the elevation required.

Aim small, miss small is in my experience considerably more likely to result in the instant bang flop that we crave, out to ranges that some of you guys get all touchy about. Aim small, miss small forces you to take into account all the factors that MPBR seeks to dumb down - animal position (angle), anatomy, wind, drop. Only short-range snap shooting with powerful rifles can really get away with ignoring this stuff.

The second problem with MPBR is that it requires you to zero your rifle at a far greater range than most people are capable of doing. The constraint they usually run into is access to ground that is able to give them a clear, level line of sight. Even here, a nice level 200m can be devilishly hard to come across because of the topography, At least in a place where you can easily walk backwards and forwards to your target. This makes it difficult for a quick field zero check. On my .300 WSM, the MPBR far zero is 243m - it is impractical.

You also have the problem of what kind of groups you are capable of shooting at that range. By the time you’re out to 200-240m, you’ve got wind effects, your shaky hold, and all sorts of other age related ailments to take into consideration. For guys who are used to shooting at 100m at the range, trying to accept the spread at over 200m for a zero can be quite a challenge.

Of course the bullet passes through the line of sight twice, and the “far zero” is the one that we really want to use, as it will far better reflect where the bullet is going to go afterwards. The “near zero” is usually something like 30m in front of you, and in my experience very short zero ranges are useless for longer range shooting. I’ve tried it and consigned it to the rubbish bin.

I will vary my zero distance slightly for each particular rifle / scope combination to best match the ballistics to the reticle so I get those nice round subtension holdovers. On most decent BDC reticles they come closely calibrated to most common cartridges assuming either a 100 yard or 200 yard zero. So my zero ranges are usually very close to one or the other.

So that’s my take on MPBR. It is a sound principle for most close range stalking as long as you are fully aware of the potential for missing the vitals low, when working close to the maximum range, and the need to have access to a place where you can confidently zero your rifle at the calculated distance. But for me I am shooting close to or beyond the maximum range probably 50% of the time.

My vote will be for aim small, miss small every time as it promotes better precision, with consequent improved probability

As has been noted already, 1 or 2 inches high at a hundred is not MPBR.

Following the MPBR process - i.e. the arithmetic part - is an interesting exercise. It does of course require you to have a accurate knowledge of your ballistics, it is not something you can work out accurately with a guesstimate. You need to have triple checked your muzzle velocity and BC at range with drop tests.

There are two fundamental problems with MPBR.

Firstly, MPBR conflicts with the “aim small, miss small” principle. The MPBR principal works on a “near enough is good enough basis” which can have major implications when working close to your calculated maximum range. Because the principal assumes that you are going to aim at the same point on the animal irrespective of range, there is in my experience an increased risk of the bullet striking slightly too low. I’ve done this myself using the MPBR principle with my .308 Win; after years of holding over using a BDC reticle, I tried MPBR and found that I didn’t like the lack of fine control on point of impact.

On one occasion I remember very clearly I shot a red stag at 255yds (the MPBR is 257yds), using a Zeiss duplex reticle on a high quality scope that I decided I needed for improved lowlight transmission. Although I was 100% confident I had the crosshair right on the centre of the 6” vitals zone, the 3½” drop was enough to break the leg and pass through the top of the brisket, underneath the hilar zone. The stag run on 3 legs about 30 yards before starting to go round in circles, and needed a second shot. At that range, that is a fail for me.

I’ve discussed MPBR with guys who have selected some unrealistically large target diameters. I do not agree that a red deer has a 12 inch vital zone! What this does is unnecessarily risk bullets impacting far too low, as it stretches the maximum range in the calculation too far in my opinion.

And this brings us onto the effect of wind. At the maximum range calculated by MPBR, you obviously have to take into account wind, which if you are holding for wind means you are inevitably starting to wander away from the centre of your target circle, which can be quite disconcerting for guys who haven’t maybe got the confidence or experience. I’m sure this is one of the reasons that we see too many shots striking too far back on the animal. All of this is far too imprecise for me.

So after a process, I dropped MPBR and reverted to the aim small, miss small concept. Simply put, aim small, miss small is where you compensate for the bullet drop with a calculated (or well considered) hold over at a very specific part of the deer, using a calibrated BDC reticle. (By calibrated I mean that at a specific magnification the reticle subtensions align with nice round numbers in sensible increments like 50m.) If you use ballistic turrets, then you dial in the elevation required.

Aim small, miss small is in my experience considerably more likely to result in the instant bang flop that we crave, out to ranges that some of you guys get all touchy about. Aim small, miss small forces you to take into account all the factors that MPBR seeks to dumb down - animal position (angle), anatomy, wind, drop. Only short-range snap shooting with powerful rifles can really get away with ignoring this stuff.

The second problem with MPBR is that it requires you to zero your rifle at a far greater range than most people are capable of doing. The constraint they usually run into is access to ground that is able to give them a clear, level line of sight. Even here, a nice level 200m can be devilishly hard to come across because of the topography, At least in a place where you can easily walk backwards and forwards to your target. This makes it difficult for a quick field zero check. On my .300 WSM, the MPBR far zero is 243m - it is impractical.

You also have the problem of what kind of groups you are capable of shooting at that range. By the time you’re out to 200-240m, you’ve got wind effects, your shaky hold, and all sorts of other age related ailments to take into consideration. For guys who are used to shooting at 100m at the range, trying to accept the spread at over 200m for a zero can be quite a challenge.

Of course the bullet passes through the line of sight twice, and the “far zero” is the one that we really want to use, as it will far better reflect where the bullet is going to go afterwards. The “near zero” is usually something like 30m in front of you, and in my experience very short zero ranges are useless for longer range shooting. I’ve tried it and consigned it to the rubbish bin.

I will vary my zero distance slightly for each particular rifle / scope combination to best match the ballistics to the reticle so I get those nice round subtension holdovers. On most decent BDC reticles they come closely calibrated to most common cartridges assuming either a 100 yard or 200 yard zero. So my zero ranges are usually very close to one or the other.

So that’s my take on MPBR. It is a sound principle for most close range stalking as long as you are fully aware of the potential for missing the vitals low, when working close to the maximum range, and the need to have access to a place where you can confidently zero your rifle at the calculated distance. But for me I am shooting close to or beyond the maximum range probably 50% of the time.

My vote will be for aim small, miss small every time as it promotes better precision, with consequent improved probability of instant kills.
Hey man really enjoyed reading that very informative info on your experiences with it, I'm new to centerfire and the longer ranges I totally get what your saying, ill probably be foxing realistically out to max 200 atm with the 223, so 1" high at 100 would probably do me fine, was just interested in peoples thoughts on mpbr, great reply cheers
 
This zeroing can be over complicated.

My .243 and .308 are both zeroed - three barleycorns high at 0.049 Nautical Miles.

This is ideal for me, at the stalking distances I will take a shot.










Three barleycorns high at 0.049 Nautical Miles is, 1" high at 100 yards - but you knew that didn't you.
Wrong method use ARSHINS
 
With my 270 I like a 200m zero (about 1.5" high at 100m) which gives me 3" target MPBR of around 230m. On the rare occasion that I shoot any further I'll hold over.

I just checked my 220 yesterday. 1" high at 100m and 2" low at 220m which works out to roughly 200m MPBR for a 2" target - perfect for small deer.

(When I talk about inches I mean thumbwidths - luckily the same)
 
On a scoped rifle:-

When you compare the line of sight to the barrel, it is the case that the barrel is pointing up (in relation to the scope).

You are in fact, "lobbing" rounds to the target.

That said, gravity still kicks in the moment the bullet exits the barrel.
Not just a 'scoped rifle, of course - otherwise the sights wouldn't work.

As you say, gravity starts 'acting on' the bullet as soon as it leaves the barrel - but as the bullet has been fired upwards it is disingenuous to suggest that it is falling in any sense than 'away from the extended line of the bore axis' - which is not in ay normal sense 'falling' at all.

It is, in fact, going what most of us would described as 'up'.

:)
 
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