Tikka T3/T3X Stainless
- Thread starter ColinBr
- Start date
Ttocs
Well-Known Member
A magnet will only tell you if it’s magnetic or not, some stainless is some isn’t. However, the T3x is stainless steel and not coated; they have a bead blasted finish to the stainless steel to Kiev them a silky sheen (mine certainly is) it may not be the most resistant stainless steel but it’s stainless non the less.
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Well you try and get any scrap metal dealer in the country to give you stainless money for something that a magnet sticks to , if the magnet sticks it ain’t proper stainless steel,same with all non-ferrous metals.
its stainless mixed with other metals = cheaper
I take it your background isn't in metallurgy?
Marine stainless to 316 or 304 spec is generally non-magnetic - however even some to that spec is mildly magnetic dependent (as I understand it) on the way it has been machined/forged/cast) - I was referred to a long scientific article explaining why marine stainless may be mildly magnetic but cannot now find the article. Might be useful however when dealing with scrap metal dealers.
Definitely a form of stainless, but
not what you would build a house by the sea out of.
Scotch brite is your friend.
My work T3 is certainly more rust resistant than my newer T3x...
ColinBr
Well-Known Member
Aye its the T3x I have.Scotch brite is your friend.
My work T3 is certainly more rust resistant than my newer T3x...
A bit of gun oil and 0000 wire wool will see mine good again.
No
, an I’m no scrap man either, not that there’s anything wrong with being a scrap man
It will be made of a Martensitic 416R stainless alloy. 416R will rust but nowhere near as easily as 4140 chromium-molybdenum alloy steel which needs to be passivated (blued) to stop it corroding in the atmosphere.
416R is classed as 'self healing' and to stop any 'rust' forming it needs to generate an oxide layer. As @caberslash said 'scotch brite is your friend' (or 0000 wire wool), give it a good clean off with that and some IPA/de-greaser and leave it somewhere dry to regenerate it's protective coating.
Don't use oil as this stops the self-healing process
416 Stainless Steel Specification | Midland Bright Steels | Stainless Steel Stockist
ColinBr
Well-Known Member
Perfect. Appreciate that thanks
416R is not good in salty environments, still better than std 4000 series carbon steel right enough but is really susceptible to salt. Sweat off your hands will deplete the oxide layer, sea water etc. is bad news.
Once cleaned and healed wiping it with a slightly oiled cloth will provide an additional barrier against sodium chloride reacting with the sulphide in the metal.
Or have the metal coated/passivated ...
416R needs additional sulpher to make it machinable it also needs to be tempered or it's too brittle, this can be where things go wrong as if the process temperature isn't controlled accurately the material will show a marked decrease in corrosion resistance. This is (likely) why some barrels rust more freely than others.
At the end of the day a melonite treated, chrome lined 4000 series carbon steel barrel will offer better corrosion resistance, increased throat erosion and less temper embrittlement issues than 416R stainless.
In short carbon steel is better than stainless..
Once cleaned and healed wiping it with a slightly oiled cloth will provide an additional barrier against sodium chloride reacting with the sulphide in the metal.
Or have the metal coated/passivated ...
416R needs additional sulpher to make it machinable it also needs to be tempered or it's too brittle, this can be where things go wrong as if the process temperature isn't controlled accurately the material will show a marked decrease in corrosion resistance. This is (likely) why some barrels rust more freely than others.
At the end of the day a melonite treated, chrome lined 4000 series carbon steel barrel will offer better corrosion resistance, increased throat erosion and less temper embrittlement issues than 416R stainless.
In short carbon steel is better than stainless..
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