Has anyone got or used the Pulsar FXG50 front add on thermal, is it as good as it sound?
Pulsar Krypton FXG50
- Thread starter Colonel
- Start date
This is where some will answer its not good and some will say it is , I've got one and once you learn how to set it up and repeat the process its very good
I have the older version - the proton and it’s very good - the convenience of being able to switch between day and night - especially up here north of the border where you cannot use electronic scopes even during daylight hours for deer.
If I had to gripe - the lack of ability to use higher than 4x zoom is a pain but other than that they are very good.
Regards,
Gixer
If I had to gripe - the lack of ability to use higher than 4x zoom is a pain but other than that they are very good.
Regards,
Gixer
I have had a Krypton for over a year I did lots of research before I bought it, once you have the settings optimised and the focus adjusted properly it’s a great bit of kit. I use mine on a Swaro Z8 I did buy the Smartclip Adaptor sized for my scope it’s a much better bit of kit than the Pulsar set up with the variable spacer rings. Never had an issue with zero and use a hand warmer tea bag taped to cardboard box to check it
A few people who buy them like them and keep them.
Most people who buy them don't like them and move them on
I'm firmly in the second camp
My reasons for being in that camp are:
Inability to hold zero when removed and refitted - although a Rusan adaptor (at an additional cost of £150) might resolve that issue
A lot of extra weight forward makes the rifle unweildy
Image is poor compared to a dedicated thermal scope of similar price
Image pixellates as scope magnification increases - x8 is about as good as it gets
Needs a scope with low base magnification (around x2 - 2.5) to be able to see the icons at the bottom of the display and the screen position values when zeroing
Buying the additional eyepiece to use it as a spotter doesn't make it a good spotter - the magnification is too high and the eye relief is non existent
Cheers
Bruce
Most people who buy them don't like them and move them on
I'm firmly in the second camp
My reasons for being in that camp are:
Inability to hold zero when removed and refitted - although a Rusan adaptor (at an additional cost of £150) might resolve that issue
A lot of extra weight forward makes the rifle unweildy
Image is poor compared to a dedicated thermal scope of similar price
Image pixellates as scope magnification increases - x8 is about as good as it gets
Needs a scope with low base magnification (around x2 - 2.5) to be able to see the icons at the bottom of the display and the screen position values when zeroing
Buying the additional eyepiece to use it as a spotter doesn't make it a good spotter - the magnification is too high and the eye relief is non existent
Cheers
Bruce
J Jeffries
Well-Known Member
Very good
Are you talking about the front add ons Bruce?? These don’t need zeroed on the proton or krypton do they?? I just use my scopes existing reticle.
Shouldn’t need zero’d if it’s an add on surely
You do indeed shoot at a target using the scope reticle - but the scope is only looking at the display on the rear of the thermal and there's no guarantee that the add-on is coaxial with the scope reticle, so they usually do need to be "zeroed"
I've owned both a Krypton FXG50 and HIK Thunder TQ50 and had to "zero" both and last week "zeroed" a HIK Thunder TQ50 add-on for someone who had recently bought one.
OK, so you fit the add-on to your scope and fire at a target.
If you're lucky, the POI will close enough to the POA for you to be happy, and you're good to go.
In most cases that doesn't happen and the POI and POA are not close enough to ensure a hit when shooting at a live target
To get the POI and POA acceptably close requires the position of the visible portion of the display on the rear of the add-on to be moved
With the Pulsar, you press the menu button for 10 seconds and on the HIK you press the up and down buttons together and in each case X and Y coordinates appear with their values set to zero
Adjusting the X value moves the display right and left and adjusting the Y value moves the display up and down.
Neither Pulsar or HIK tell you how much the POI will shift at a given range for a 1 digit change in X or Y
So, you change the X and Y values by a few digits, shoot again and note the new POI
From those 2 POIs you should be able to work out the direction and number of digits needed to get the POI and the POA close enough
For example, the HIK Thunder TQ50 I zeroed last week started out with X=0 and Y=0 and when the POI and POA were close enough for the owner to be happy, the values were X=-14, Y=+4
BTW that was with a Zeiss 3-12x50 scope and x8 was as high I could go with the scope magnification before the hot hands baggie I was using as a target at 100 yards become too pixellated
Cheers
Bruce
I prefer a dedicated personally. BUT I've used Kryptons with no issue and fitted one to a .22 RImfire with no X/Y adjustment at all for the scope, I was shooting rabbits at 80yds on initial use. Most go for these because they have a non parallax scope, that they want to convert for night use OR they have stalking setups and want to keep there equipment and swap between rifles/scopes as required..
I’m confused here , if your looking through the scope reticule and it’s got a blank thermal screen then all your doing is showing your reticle position on your quarry how can the add-on have a different angle , doesn’t make sense to me , I use mine for foxing on my 223 and when it’s a shite night I use it on my 243 and never had any issues about zeroing . I’ve tried to work out your explanation Bruce but I’m totally lost , but mind you I’m not the brightest , I can’t remember ever reading that it had to be zeroed to a rifle .
My view as Krypton owner and a happy one is that the “Zero” issues are all to do with the mounting not the unit. Having done lots of research I opted for the Smartclip Adaptor specific to my Swaro Z8 well engineered no zero issues
How does the smartclip adapter differ from the pulsar adapter . I paid £140 for an different adapter for the 223 , it came with an adapter for the 243 which is a 56 objective on a Z6i
The Smartclip adaptor comes in sizes specific to your scope OD +/- 2mm with a much improved clamp compared to the Pulsar with a non marking inner surface to get a consistent coupling to the scope, expensive but quality bit of kit
I did lots of research prior to getting the Krypton and the key to consitant zero is mounting, the Pulsar mount is Ford compared to Smartclip BMW in terms of engineering. In life you do sometimes get what you pay for ( Not always)
OK, I'll try again
The add-on has to be pointing in exactly the same direction as the scope reticle for the POI to be the same with and without the add-on fitted
If the add-on points a bit to the right or left, or a bit high or low then the POI with the add-on fitted won't be the same as without the add-on.
The scope adaptors supplied with the Pulsar and HIK have to cope with a wide range of scope objective bell diameters and they do this by supplying spacers to fill gap between the scope adaptor and the eyebell.
These scope adaptors and their spacers are the biggest source of error and the reason may people splash out on a smartclip scope adaptor which is made to fit an exact size of scope objective diameter
Cheers
Bruce
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