Infiray Mate Mah50

[DVS1]

Anyone got one or used one??

Not sure if i really want to go full thermal riflescope as yet so thinking of a thermal add on but like the function of a bit more mag if desired.

Have checked specs and the Infifray T50v2 screen has a higher resolution so thinking better at higher mag, if I decided to go dedicated thermal.

Input please chaps if you've had a play of one with the Mk1 eyeball

 

[mealiejimmy]

Save your money and brainpower and buy a dedicated thermal scope (preferably a pulsar or a HIK)
Front add-ons are a PITA
A higher screen resolution doesn't really help at higher mag, because it's the number of sensor pixels that gets reduced as digital zoom is increased, not the number of display pixels.

Cheers

Bruce

 

[DVS1]

Cheers for the info on pixels etc Bruce.

I've had 2 front add ons in the past, tubed and digital and neither gave me any issues hence my looking. The higher res on a dedicated scope may be my deciding factor.

Thanks again

 

[Blackwood Outdoors]

I'd wait for the new Krypton 2 XG50, for a well built front add on, with 640x480 12 micron sensor. Very competitive price point also at £2849.95

Pulsar Krypton 2 FXG50 Thermal Front Add On

The Pulsar Krypton 2 FXG50 is not fitted with a European 12 micron 640 resolution sensor and redesigned magnesium outer shell for increased durability.

www.blackwoodoutdoors.co.uk

 

[DVS1]

Cheers!

 

[stevenedwards]

Save your money and brainpower and buy a dedicated thermal scope (preferably a pulsar or a HIK)
Front add-ons are a PITA
A higher screen resolution doesn't really help at higher mag, because it's the number of sensor pixels that gets reduced as digital zoom is increased, not the number of display pixels.

Cheers

Bruce

Bruce You say front mounted units are a PITA I am interested to know why as the idea appeals to me but I know nothing !

Steven

 

[mealiejimmy]

I've had 3 front add-ons, 1 NV and 2 thermal, so i can't be blamed for speaking from ignorance of the subject
In all 3 cases i found the following:
1. The weight forward of the scope upsets the balance of the rifle
2. You need long arms to reach the focus adjust and other controls
3. The scope needs to have a low base magnification anything much above x3 and you won't see the icons and the field of view will be narrow
4. Maximum magnification depends on how much pixelation of the display you can cope with, but typically, it won't be more than x8 (the add-on itself is x1 magnification)
5. With the correct lens adaptor, most thermal add-ons also work as thermal spotters so that when a target is spotted the lens adaptor is removed and the add-on fitted to the scope. Depending on the model, that process can be fast enough to actually get a shot, or so slow that the target will be in the next county before you're ready to shoot
5. Retaining zero when re-fitted to the rifle, and even worse, trying to retain zeroes when used on multiple rifles.
A lot of the zeroing problems are down to the quality of the adaptors supplied with the add-ons because they are sold to cover a range of objective bell diameters.
Pulsar use plastic spacer rings to fill the gap between the adaptor and the objective bell, while HIK use sticky backed neoprene strips for the same purpose. Rusan make adaptors which are sized to fit specific objective bell diameters, but they add another £180 to the price
Front add-ons sound like an attractive proposition but in practice few users actually get on with them.
Front add-ons only exist to get around the hunting laws in some countries where NV and thermal targetting devices (ie they have a reticle) are banned, but observation devices (i,e they don't have a reticle) are allowed. Using the scope reticle to aim with keeps things legal whilst giving some level of NV or thermal capability
NV and thermal scopes are legal in the UK so we don't need this work around and can use dedicated scopes which are, all round, far better suited to the task

Cheers

Bruce

 

[stevenedwards]

Thanks Bruce. This has disappointed me but better to know before hand than find out the expensive way !

Steven

 

[JohnSmith]

I have a mate Mah50 and bought the spotter attachment. Works great as both a spotter and clip on.

 

[Dari]

I have a mate Mah50 and bought the spotter attachment. Works great as both a spotter and clip on.

How quick can you change from spotter to clip on?
Would it be possible to switch from spotting to clip on quietly and quickly enough during the hunt?

 

[SussexSteve]

I’m running the zeiss front add on. Although not on par with dedicated scopes I’ve owned it is on par with my pulsar xp50 pro 2 spotter. It means I can have quality day optics and decent thermal capabilities after dark. Ok on 4-5 mag without losing too much resolution

 

[JohnSmith]

How quick can you change from spotter to clip on?
Would it be possible to switch from spotting to clip on quietly and quickly enough during the hunt?

I wouldn’t say it’s quick, you’d have to unscrew the handheld spotter attachment from the unit, screw on the scope attachment then latch it to your scope. I’d imagine it’d take a solid minute. It would be somewhat quiet, just the sound of metal threads screwing on and off.

 

[Dari]

I wouldn’t say it’s quick, you’d have to unscrew the handheld spotter attachment from the unit, screw on the scope attachment then latch it to your scope. I’d imagine it’d take a solid minute. It would be somewhat quiet, just the sound of metal threads screwing on and off.

OK. Thank you.
I am searching for a real two-in-one solution combining spotter and front add on thermal.
New Pulsar krypton 2 with PSP-B adapter might be the one.