Replacement upgrade trigger tikka t3

Really dont like a "hunting rifle" ( without a selective set facility) to break at anything like that low personally. Not just about the safety of such a thing but the fact that i will be using the tool when tired , wet , cold either - sear engagement could possibly lead to a negligent discharge in loaded carry ( with the smaller threshold , with wear ) . Paper punching fine!
Drop tested and rock solid. But each to his own personally I am not a fan of heavy triggers and fingers are never in the trigger guard till I’m ready to shoot.
 
Drop tested and rock solid. But each to his own personally I am not a fan of heavy triggers and fingers are never in the trigger guard till I’m ready to shoot.
Each to their own but there are many reasons why its not wise to run to the lightest pulls beyond what it states in the handbook . A lot of dry firing drills will correct a trigger squeeze flinch , I often practice dry firing when i haven't shot in a few weeks and was constantly at it when i shot competitively
 
Just thought I would add some info on what I have found with my trigger on my T3x. I found the trigger slightly heavy for my liking, even once set to the lightest position. So I looked into the springs & thought they were expensive for what they are. My spring was 8mm long with a 3mm o/d with a 1mm wire diameter. Anyway I didn`t find any immediate suppliers in this country on ebay at that size & with thinner gauge coils without ordering quantities to make it worthwhile. I then turned my attention to the grub screw wich holds the spring in & adjusts compression on the spring. The screw is an M5 x 8mm long grub screw, wich I replaced with an M5 x 6 long grub screw & retained the standard spring turned out to leave a small gap between the M5 grub screw & the other large allen cap headed bolt. Before threadlocking in place I worked the bolt as hard & as fast as I could 4-5 times & also bumped the base & butt pad of my Oryx chassis ( this made my hand sore ) about the same amount of times with safety off to check all was safe & it wouldn`t accidentally fire. This for me so far has resulted in a much nicer trigger pull. I`m in now way suggesting people do this, as I`m not a gunsmith, but thought this may be useful knowledge for some.
 
Changing the spring is cheap insurance compared to getting the heavier factory spring on the edge by playing with the pre-tension.

AFAIK you should be able to back the factory screw to dangerous levels when the clip that keeps factory singlestack mag in place. E.g. in CTR, T1x and when using chassis.

Personally I'd just carefully polish the contact surface since that way you can get trigger quite nice with factory spring.
 
Changing the spring is cheap insurance compared to getting the heavier factory spring on the edge by playing with the pre-tension.

AFAIK you should be able to back the factory screw to dangerous levels when the clip that keeps factory singlestack mag in place. E.g. in CTR, T1x and when using chassis.

Personally I'd just carefully polish the contact surface since that way you can get trigger quite nice with factory spring.
I believe backing out the factory screw lets you take it down to around 2lbs & certainly not dangerous levels. I had already backed it out as far as possible & it still felt a heavy pull compared to my other rifles. Doing this lightened it down to a much nicer pull & I checked it out to make sure it wouldn`t accidently fire. As I said it is only me experiance & another rifle exactly the same may behave differently doing the same. If the result`s didn`t work out, then I had found another spring wich would of needed to be cut down & the ends collapsed/polished to fit.
 
I'd go down the spring change route first, it really does transform them. If after that, you still don't like it, I think you can get a set trigger for the T3, friend of mine had it from the factory so they might replace or supply for you. It was quite nice to shoot once you got used to it
 
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You can spend a lot of money replacing a T3 trigger with very little improvement. I would suggest getting a proper gunsmith to stone the faces as that will help more on a £/reward basis.
 
Just thought I would add some info on what I have found with my trigger on my T3x. I found the trigger slightly heavy for my liking, even once set to the lightest position. So I looked into the springs & thought they were expensive for what they are. My spring was 8mm long with a 3mm o/d with a 1mm wire diameter. Anyway I didn`t find any immediate suppliers in this country on ebay at that size & with thinner gauge coils without ordering quantities to make it worthwhile. I then turned my attention to the grub screw wich holds the spring in & adjusts compression on the spring. The screw is an M5 x 8mm long grub screw, wich I replaced with an M5 x 6 long grub screw & retained the standard spring turned out to leave a small gap between the M5 grub screw & the other large allen cap headed bolt. Before threadlocking in place I worked the bolt as hard & as fast as I could 4-5 times & also bumped the base & butt pad of my Oryx chassis ( this made my hand sore ) about the same amount of times with safety off to check all was safe & it wouldn`t accidentally fire. This for me so far has resulted in a much nicer trigger pull. I`m in now way suggesting people do this, as I`m not a gunsmith, but thought this may be useful knowledge for some.
Bump test is only one of the tests of a safe trigger . Now target shooting is a world apart to range shooting as we are generally one in the chamber safety on moving about a heck of a stupid thing to do in most target shooting events and (lets be fair many / most target rifles are single shot away from tactical style events . )
 
Just mill or grind the top of the trigger retaining bolt down to allow the grub screw its full travel.
Be aware without a safety stop you will need to loctite the grub screw to give it some resistance and avoid it creeping under recoil.

Lightness doesn’t a great trigger make….

Polish the interference surface of the sear and cocking piece first, then feck around with lightness
 
Both my T3x's, .223 & .243 run at 1.25 pounds with the Gun Bloke spring. Both are crisp, consistent & reliable. I see absolutely no need to mess about polishing/stoning a trigger that doesn't need it .
 
Just mill or grind the top of the trigger retaining bolt down to allow the grub screw its full travel.
Be aware without a safety stop you will need to loctite the grub screw to give it some resistance and avoid it creeping under recoil.

Lightness doesn’t a great trigger make….

Polish the interference surface of the sear and cocking piece first, then feck around with lightness
Dropping trigger weights down below Tikka std spec on a hunting rifle imo is crazy - Just go and practice !
Its different when your shooting without mag feed on a cleared range with range officers
 
Seems to me people should use the trigger weight they like. No gun is safer suddenly with a 2lb trigger they all will kill you quite well. Personally I despise heavy triggers but I never even put a finger in the trigger guard till I’m pointing at the target (or animal with backstop) and ready to shoot. I also only use fingerless gloves. Each to his own I say.
 
Just mill or grind the top of the trigger retaining bolt down to allow the grub screw its full travel.
Be aware without a safety stop you will need to loctite the grub screw to give it some resistance and avoid it creeping under recoil.

Lightness doesn’t a great trigger make….

Polish the interference surface of the sear and cocking piece first, then feck around with lightness
Done this with both my super varmints and they are the best I’ll get without buying a bixnandy trigger. Just make sure you do an accidental discharge test so cock the gun with NO ROUNDS lift the butt up a few inch so it pivots on the bipod and drop the butt so it knocks abit. Just abit of peace of mind that gun is safe
 
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