Shultz and Larsen bolt stuck after firing

[Woodsy]

Trip to gunsmith planned for Monday morning but just curious whether any other Shultz and Larsen owners have had this happen.

Shot a doe this morning, intention was to shoot another out of the group but went to work the bolt and it was stuck. Exactly as if the safety was on. It would move a bit but locked solid. Safety is stuck in ’safety off’ position. Trigger is still in fired position. Empty case in chamber.

Not sure whether this is a bolt issue or something to do with the safety mechanism. Any thoughts?

 

[Foxyboy43]

Hmmmm. If it is a homeload see

Stuck case upon firing.... thoughts???

Having an issue with a stuck case and bolt upon firing using hornady load data with their 120 cx in 6.5 prc and only 55 grs of N165. Min is 54.7, max is 60. Nosler 1x fired brass and Win LR magnum primer. Same happens with Barnes 127 lrx and only 53.1 grs of N165. Rifle is a Sauer 100 terra...

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

 

[Woodsy]

Hmmmm. If it is a homeload see

Stuck case upon firing.... thoughts???

Having an issue with a stuck case and bolt upon firing using hornady load data with their 120 cx in 6.5 prc and only 55 grs of N165. Min is 54.7, max is 60. Nosler 1x fired brass and Win LR magnum primer. Same happens with Barnes 127 lrx and only 53.1 grs of N165. Rifle is a Sauer 100 terra...

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

Factory

 

[Andrewslater]

Sounds like it needs some brute force and ignorance then a thorough inspection before refiring.

 

[old 30-06]

My best guess is that the bullet was over pressure, resulting in the primer protruding out of the back of the case slightly, causing the round to stick in the chamber and the bolt to "stick". It might be worth a sharp tap or two on the bolt with a rubber mallet. This normally causes the primer to dislodge and then the bolt will function normally.

 

[markj1]

We used to call it "Vespa stoppage', because you'd place the rifle with the butt on the ground and the barrel pointing at 45⁰ over the target line, then 'kickstart' the bolt downwards, but I guess that would not be permitted these days due to range safety regulations. Also, it only works if the bolt requires a straight pull.

 

[old 30-06]

Just to be clear I should have said to turn the rifle in your hand so that when you strike the bolt from above it is opening the bolt in its normal cycle action. I have had to do this in Africa caused by the heat. Do not be afraid to hit it sharply and firmly.

 

[Woodsy]

Sounds like it needs some brute force and ignorance then a thorough inspection before refiring.

I’ve tried using a fair bit of oomph but don’t want to go overboard in case I end up breaking something (ie safety mechanism if that’s the issue..)

 

[Woodsy]

My best guess is that the bullet was over pressure, resulting in the primer protruding out of the back of the case slightly, causing the round to stick in the chamber and the bolt to "stick". It might be worth a sharp tap or two on the bolt with a rubber mallet. This normally causes the primer to dislodge and then the bolt will function normally.

I can see the logic. My concern is whether the issue might actually be something to do with the safety mechanism in which case tapping with a rubber mallet might damage the safety..

 

[Foxyboy43]

My best guess is that the bullet was over pressure, resulting in the primer protruding out of the back of the case slightly, causing the round to stick in the chamber and the bolt to "stick". It might be worth a sharp tap or two on the bolt with a rubber mallet. This normally causes the primer to dislodge and then the bolt will function normally.

Hmmm.
Might be a safety catch issue or could be a dirty chamber or even contaminated cartridge - not familiar with rifle i.e. straight pull or turnbolt, a gentle tap or two with piece of wood might work - make sure the bolt is lifted before tapping rearwards!!
Used to happen with Mosin Nagants when the dreaded cosmoline had not been fully cleaned and it “welded“ the fired brass to the chamber - anything from a heel to a plank got the desired result but then it was a Mosin - dependent on construction on some other rifles the (soldered?) bolt handle snapped off so be careful!

 

[old 30-06]

Woodsy, its always easier if the rifle belongs to someone else, not you. Be brave. I think its highly unlikely to be a mechanical safety catch issue. Using a rubber mallet will prevent any damage. You are not gioing to beat the gun to death, just smart taps applied with a reasonable ammount of force. I am sure this is what the gunsmith will do as there is no other way to get in there.

 

[old 30-06]

If there is a problem with the safety mechanism, then it is already broken. I can't see that a few smart taps with a rubber mallet will make it any worse.

 

[old 30-06]

Whatever course of action you decide upon, please can you let me know the outcome.

 

[Andy RV]

If the bolt can move slightly I doubt that it’s a stuck case from an over pressure round, your suspicion of a safety bolt locking issue sounds more plausible.

I’m not familiar with the S&L trigger mechanism, can you take the stock off and investigate the trigger mech? From a quick google it looks like it might be easy to remove via a single bolt?

 

[HonestJohn]

As above, there’s no way to disassemble it and fix it, but to get that bolt handle up and backwards. That’s only going to happen one way, and that’s with a sharp blow from a mallet. Don’t do it whilst it’s in the stock as you risk cracking it. Take barrelled action out, then tap the roll pin(s) out holding the trigger unit and remove trigger/safety, ‘then’ play whack a mole

 

[Woodsy]

If the bolt can move slightly I doubt that it’s a stuck case from an over pressure round, your suspicion of a safety bolt locking issue sounds more plausible.

I’m not familiar with the S&L trigger mechanism, can you take the stock off and investigate the trigger mech? From a quick google it looks like it might be easy to remove via a single bolt?

If there is a problem with the safety mechanism, then it is already broken. I can't see that a few smart taps with a rubber mallet will make it any worse.

the bolt does already move a bit but is locked in firmly beyond a bit of loose play, just as if the safety was on which prevents the bolt being actually removed. Hence my concern that this might be a safety mechanism issue rather than a bolt issue. Will definitely let you know outcome but that might not be until after a visit to a gunsmith..

 

[Woodsy]

If the bolt can move slightly I doubt that it’s a stuck case from an over pressure round, your suspicion of a safety bolt locking issue sounds more plausible.

I’m not familiar with the S&L trigger mechanism, can you take the stock off and investigate the trigger mech? From a quick google it looks like it might be easy to remove via a single bolt?

Yes, going to try that now.

 

[Woodsy]

As above, there’s no way to disassemble it and fix it, but to get that bolt handle up and backwards. That’s only going to happen one way, and that’s with a sharp blow from a mallet. Don’t do it whilst it’s in the stock as you risk cracking it. Take barrelled action out, then tap the roll pin(s) out holding the trigger unit and remove trigger/safety, ‘then’ play whack a mole

Ok thanks will give it a go.

 

[Jelen]

Friend had a similar thing recently with a Howa. Took the action out of the stock and it was a loose trigger mech screw and loose bolt retains screw. tightened them up and the bolt worked ok.
I suggest you remove the stock and look at the action before resorting to using a hammer or boot on the bolt.

 

[cjm1066]

If it safety related take action out of stock and have a look, might even be worth removing trigger assembly.

If it's with warrenty back to shop.