Parke Hale 1200 help/advice.

Yes it looks like a late model 1200, just use it as it is. Docter scopes were quite serviceable.
Just a personal thing but if it were mine I would seriously consider replacing the blocks and rings with a decent set of steel mounts and rings. This is purely a personal preference based on past experience with Parker Hale mounts and rings.
I would spend a bit more on quick detach rings, and use the iron sights as well.
Looks a lovely rifle!
 
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This sounds like something I'd quite like to avoid! I'd certainly have some explaining to do since it isn't my field or hay bale! I best order so sandbags I think.
Make your own sandbags. Just cut the legs off an old pair of jeans at the knee, fill them with sand (or whatever you've got) and lash the ends closed with a bit of twine. That gives you two sandbags, one to go under the forend and one to go under the butt.
 
That sounds like what I have. The horizontal parts are half thick, half thin, the bottom vertical is the same and the top vertical is all thin. I'll make up some of these diamond targets and see how I get on. I'll try and get the hay bale on its side for the next outing. I have visions of it rolling to the bottom of the field when I try to put it back but that sounds like a future me problem!
Here you go, these are what I used. print both out and see what works best at 100m. I suspect the larger one will be easier at first with the thick wires.
 

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Your rifle is likely a Mauser 98 ex war action, excellent action and great barrels, fitted by Parker hale. Get it threaded 1/2” unf. Should cost £50 and no, doesn’t need re-proof. The scope is good, no need to change it.

Forget all about a detachable magazine immediately. Floor plate is absolutely fine, cycle the rounds out when you’re finished, the benefit is also that you will never accidentally leave a round in the chamber.
I was about to post, but no need.this poster has said everything I was.going to say
The only thing I would is if you intend to ever shoot on any land owned by any of the forestry companies a mod is a must.
 
Buy some cheap PPU ammo. Use it to learn to shoot the rifle. It may shoot tight groups, it may not, but its cheap and good enough.

Use a target similar to one below. I use this with 6x scopes all the time. The cross hair just falls naturally in the centre. Your eye is very very good and align things repeatedly, but if it can’t see both objects.
 

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Tell us more ,go on go on go on.
My .243 safari 1200 came screwcut 1/2 and when the floorplate spring broke I fitted a Voere 5 round box magazine.
Now it's my go to foxing rifle with a thermal on top ,but my.270 Ph is a thing of beauty imho and will stay pure .
 

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Tell us more ,go on go on go on.
My .243 safari 1200 came screwcut 1/2 and when the floorplate spring broke I fitted a Voere 5 round box magazine.
Now it's my go to foxing rifle with a thermal on top ,but my.270 Ph is a thing of beauty imho and will stay pure .
I take it they are a lot lighter than a butt bag 🤦😂
 
Any updates for us, @Gorgon?
How are you getting on with it?
No updates yet I'm afraid! I've printed the various targets out ready for action but as I have a mentor clause on my certificate I can't go out on my own because I can't be trusted! I'm hoping to get out during the week next week so I should have some news then. Apparently I'm also rubbish at replying to people here! I managed to get hold of some primers today though so expect a post in the reloading section soon!
 
I managed to get out yesterday and, following the advice of @Heym SR20 bought a couple boxes of the cheapest rounds I could find, which happened to be the American Whitetail 100gr. I fired about thirty rounds and things have begun to improve but I think I can do better with more practice. The target in the picture is 3" in diameter and the barrel was cold. More target shooting required I think before I attempt to shoot anything that's alive! I now have loads of once fired brass to reuse though once I find some powder for sale, so that's a plus!

Edit to add, the target was 100 yards away and no hay bales were harmed.
 

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I managed to get out yesterday and, following the advice of @Heym SR20 bought a couple boxes of the cheapest rounds I could find, which happened to be the American Whitetail 100gr. I fired about thirty rounds and things have begun to improve but I think I can do better with more practice. The target in the picture is 3" in diameter and the barrel was cold. More target shooting required I think before I attempt to shoot anything that's alive! I now have loads of once fired brass to reuse though once I find some powder for sale, so that's a plus!

Edit to add, the target was 100 yards away and no hay bales were harmed.
If that target is 3" then your group size is about 1.5" at 100 yards, so you're good to go on any deer species in the UK 👍
Get out there and get cracking, I say! You're a better shot on paper than I am, that's for sure!
 
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Personally I’d leave it exactly as it is and just stalk with it, especially if you have other rifles with sound moderators and detachable magazines.

There is something special about staking with a traditional rifle without a mod, it’s better balanced and less weight.

Everyone should have at least one in their cabinet.

I have a PH 100 Pro Stalker which is not screw threaded, has a floor plate mag and I love taking it out.
 

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Old thread but here is my PH in action. 308 with Sako Gamehead 123gr. Ive only used it for 2 years and before that a bsa in 243 for 20 years so I don’t change much. It’s really growing on me and still shoots 1’’ at 100m if I concentrate.
 

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Personally I wouldn’t get it screw cut. Rifles handle and point better without the weight of the mod on the end. It’s .243 so recoil and noise would be manageable. I have a P-H 1100 Pro Stalker in .6mm Remington which is not screw cut and I have no intention of getting it done. It a delight to carry and handle compared to my other rifles that have a can on the end. It is probably favourite rifle to take out.

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