6.5x55 load development

Hoppy

Well-Known Member
starting to load my own ammunition again and I have acquired a new rifle and calibre since I last loaded my own ammunition.
Its a Sauer 404 in 6.5x55 with a 1:11 barrel twist, i use this on Fallow & Red deer (the occasional roe but mostly use a .243 for them) at ranges from 80-250 meters.
Looking for opinions from others on bullet brand and model, along with gr weight. if anyone has a good load developed for this combo that i can use as a strating point it would be very helpful.

My initial thoughts is a Hornady 120gr SST, would need to get an up to date Hornady load manual for powders etc if that the route i end up going down, also wondered about just going straight down the monolithic route but worry that will raise more questions than answers!

any help and advice gratefully received!
 
I've used the SST both 129 and 140 in my 6.5 swede but found them too explosive at short ranges. They put the deer down but also damage a lot of meat.
Now I use the Nosler 130gr AB which is very reliable at the ranges you mention. For Reds at longer ranges the 140gr Nosler AB would retain a bit more energy.
 
I've used the SST both 129 and 140 in my 6.5 swede but found them too explosive at short ranges. They put the deer down but also damage a lot of meat.
Now I use the Nosler 130gr AB which is very reliable at the ranges you mention. For Reds at longer ranges the 140gr Nosler AB would retain a bit more energy.
how are they for drop at longer ranges, i currently use 123gr SST and quite disappointed at the drop from 200 - 300 meters, i expected this calibre to be a bit flatter?
 
starting to load my own ammunition again and I have acquired a new rifle and calibre since I last loaded my own ammunition.
Its a Sauer 404 in 6.5x55 with a 1:11 barrel twist, i use this on Fallow & Red deer (the occasional roe but mostly use a .243 for them) at ranges from 80-250 meters.
Looking for opinions from others on bullet brand and model, along with gr weight. if anyone has a good load developed for this combo that i can use as a strating point it would be very helpful.

My initial thoughts is a Hornady 120gr SST, would need to get an up to date Hornady load manual for powders etc if that the route i end up going down, also wondered about just going straight down the monolithic route but worry that will raise more questions than answers!

any help and advice gratefully received!

These Kiwi blokes have done a lot of research into 6.5 x 55mm

maximus otter
 
how are they for drop at longer ranges, i currently use 123gr SST and quite disappointed at the drop from 200 - 300 meters, i expected this calibre to be a bit flatter?
My barrel is 20". Zeroed at 100yds. The 130's are 2841fps at the muzzle, drop at 400yds is 28.8" (U6.9MoA) Muzzle energy is 1141ft-lbs.
The 140's are 2674fps at the muzzle, drop at 400yds is 30.5" (U7.3MoA) Muzzle energy is 1279ft-lbs.
My elevation turret is marked with Snopake out to 400yds and I use my LRF to range the deer then dial in.
In my experience when the deer are that far out I have plenty of time.
 
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Excellent choice of chambering and rifle sir!
I have used 120gns Sierra Prohunters since forever and they work for Roe through to Red without issue; the last couple of years I moved to 130gns Sierra Gamechangers and again they are spot-on and both driven by the same load of 45gns of Viht 160. As ever start low and work up to your desired result.
In my rifle I found that loaded long is the way to go for both these bullets as the chambers are extremely long (to permit 160gns plus bullets); you may even struggle to find the lands! I always finish them with a good crimp - if that was good enough for the late, great Richard Lee then who are we to argue?
Good luck!
🦊🦊
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starting to load my own ammunition again and I have acquired a new rifle and calibre since I last loaded my own ammunition.
Its a Sauer 404 in 6.5x55 with a 1:11 barrel twist, i use this on Fallow & Red deer (the occasional roe but mostly use a .243 for them) at ranges from 80-250 meters.
Looking for opinions from others on bullet brand and model, along with gr weight. if anyone has a good load developed for this combo that i can use as a strating point it would be very helpful.

My initial thoughts is a Hornady 120gr SST, would need to get an up to date Hornady load manual for powders etc if that the route i end up going down, also wondered about just going straight down the monolithic route but worry that will raise more questions than answers!

any help and advice gratefully received!
Are you sure it’s a 1:11? That’s an odd twist for a 6.5x55 designed for long, thin bullets? Normal would be 8-9” twist.
 
I started on 130gr Sierra gamechangers which were incredibly easy to make shoot well and gave good terminal effect. Then moved to barnes ttsx which was a bit trickier to tune but got there reasonable quickly in less than 50 rounds. Both liked a good stout charge of N160
 
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I gave up with Barnes TSX 120 grain, but have had success with Fox Classic Hunter 123 grain loaded into LAPUA cases. Monolithic, but I have to avoid lead on one of my permissions so this was the best way to go.
 
That's an exceptionally slow twist for a 6.5x55.
Did you measure the twist yourself?
How long is your barrel?
These 2 factors might render many common recipes redundant in your rifle.

Reasonably low costing lead projectiles might be a good place to start for your first load, that way it will be cheaper to learn your craft before moving to more expensive lead free options them you'll have 2loads. Furthermore if your twist rate really is that slow certain lead free bullets are unlikely to stabilise well.
 
Are you sure it’s a 1:11? That’s an odd twist for a 6.5x55 designed for long, thin bullets? Normal would be 8-9” twist.
stuck my cleaning rod down the barrel with a nylon brush on, marked it with tape like a flag, pulled it back until the tape had gone through one full revolution marked again and measured and it was bang on 11'.
 
i have double checked their website and they claim the twist rate for that model and calibre is 1 in 220mm or 8.7" effectively 1:9, does anyone else have one that can verify this? as i measured it with a cleaning rod and nylon brush (not saying my method is not infallible) and it came out 1:11"???
 
i have double checked their website and they claim the twist rate for that model and calibre is 1 in 220mm or 8.7" effectively 1:9, does anyone else have one that can verify this? as i measured it with a cleaning rod and nylon brush (not saying my method is not infallible) and it came out 1:11"???
That would be a normal twist, it would be pretty unlikely for it to be a 1:11 by mistake as I doubt many 1:11 6.5 barrels are made. A tight fitting jag may give a different result as the nylon rush may be slipping slightly and giving you a fals reading.

In all honesty, if it is I would send it back!
 
i have double checked their website and they claim the twist rate for that model and calibre is 1 in 220mm or 8.7" effectively 1:9, does anyone else have one that can verify this? as i measured it with a cleaning rod and nylon brush (not saying my method is not infallible) and it came out 1:11"???
Tight ish fitting patch or brass brush is the only way I have found to be consistently accurate measuring twist. Nylon brushes just don't offer enough resistance to follow the rifling in my experience.

My Sauer 202 does quite well with 129 SST's over N550 iirc (because that's what I had at the time) although I would probably go with N160 if starting a new load. I did try some 95 VMAX they were accurate but no idea on Deer as I only tested a few for accuracy. The 129's were a bit savage on CWD, not my first choice but my Lad borrowed my rifle. The 222 I suggested he use was not to his liking so. They were dead on the spot but weren't going to a game dealer if you get my drift.
I get Half MOA out to 300ys not tested further
 
Nylon brushes just don't offer enough resistance to follow the rifling in my experience.

^^^^^^ Exactly so! A tight fitting patch is near essential otherwise the bit apparently following the rifling slips and gives an incorrect reading. Had it happen to me many times before I learned better.
 
Currently using these loads in my 6.5x55 sako 85
Barnes 120grn ttsx
Hornady 120grn cx
Fox 123grn classic hunter
Rws 93grn evo green
Nosler 100grn ballistic tip
I have each one zeroed under a separate profile on the alpex and they’re ideal for different jobs, the first 3 are essentially interchangeable stalking loads and the last two are very fast, frangible culling loads, low ricochet risk and often don’t even exit on fallow at ranges over 200m. One of my favorite things about the digi scopes is the ability to be zeroed with a few different types of ammo at the same time.
For a general stalking load though, any of the top 3 are great if you need lead free, in the past I’ve used the 120grn and 140 grn nosler ballistic tip, and the 140grn hornady sst. Great bullets. Ther 125grn partition is also bloody good in the swede.
 
Currently using these loads in my 6.5x55 sako 85
Barnes 120grn ttsx
Hornady 120grn cx
Fox 123grn classic hunter
Rws 93grn evo green
Nosler 100grn ballistic tip
I have each one zeroed under a separate profile on the alpex and they’re ideal for different jobs, the first 3 are essentially interchangeable stalking loads and the last two are very fast, frangible culling loads, low ricochet risk and often don’t even exit on fallow at ranges over 200m. One of my favorite things about the digi scopes is the ability to be zeroed with a few different types of ammo at the same time.
For a general stalking load though, any of the top 3 are great if you need lead free, in the past I’ve used the 120grn and 140 grn nosler ballistic tip, and the 140grn hornady sst. Great bullets. Ther 125grn partition is also bloody good in the swede.
Am I missing something? When you say “loads” do you mean bullets or that you use them very often - as in “lots”?
🦊🦊
 
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