Re waterproofing waterproof clothing

[It’s a girl with a gun]

iv got several coats & shooting trousers which are breathable and supposedly waterproof, they’re just not now as they’ve been washed several times, And getting older. What product does everyone use for re waterproofing them? They’re the kind of soft materials like seetex etc. thanks

 

[malmick]

I'd follow the care instructions for temperature and type of wash of each item and do them batches matched garments. First with normal washing detergent to clean, then with natural soap or Nikwax Tech Wash to remove detergent, then proof with either TX10 wash in direct or Diver Daves stuff. I'd then clean them regularly with Tech Wash and reproof. Tumble dry appropriate items but not anything with a membrane.

 

[Ajax]

One Chem, tent and gear proofer. Use this approx every 3 - 4 months and has served me well and easy to apply, simply apply to dry clothes and let it dry naturally as it doesn't require to be heat activated.

 

[Heym SR20]

I'd follow the care instructions for temperature and type of wash of each item and do them batches matched garments. First with normal washing detergent to clean, then with natural soap or Nikwax Tech Wash to remove detergent, then proof with either TX10 wash in direct or Diver Daves stuff. I'd then clean them regularly with Tech Wash and reproof. Tumble dry appropriate items but not anything with a membrane.

As above. Personally I prefer the spray on waterproof rather than wash in. It means that the inner layers are more breathable. Spray waterproof works better when clothing is still damp after being washed - it wets out better. I use nickwax spray on. Let it dry, then give it a tumble dry.

 

[Hunter300]

If I may ask please, why tumble drie afterwards?

 

[Ajax]

Some require heat activation to set the proofing, I apply to dry clothing which allows me to see where ive sprayed and allow it to dry at room temperature naturally.
Ive use various types in the past and personally I've never had the greatest success with the heat activation type.

 

[Hunter300]

Ok thaks

 

[griffshrek]

Fabsil Gold , spray it on , let it dry and your good to go

 

[Ratsbadboy]

Fabsil Gold , spray it on , let it dry and your good to go

Yep, me too, excellent stuff. I use it on the soft top of the car too.

 

[Steff]

For a garment to be allowed to carry the label 'waterproof' the international standard is that it needs to withstand a hydrostatic water column of only 800mm.

Sitting on wet ground produces ca. 2,000mm pressure, kneeling 4,000mm.
The membrane in Fjällräven stuff has a rating of 8,000mm while GoreTex has 45,000mm. Go figure.

In order to maintain the breathability features and to aid dissipation of water the outer fabric needs a DWR coating (Durable Water Repellent). This only works on clean fabrics and needs to be replaced / refreshed regularly.

So in essence, if your once waterproof clothes start to leak there are three possible causes. A the membrane has been punctured or B the seal of the seams has come off or/and C the DWR coating needs a touch up.

 

[VSS]

Get some stuff from Diver Dave. Not sure if he's still a member on here?

 

[Foxkiller22250]

I think you're find diver daves repel is only sold on ebay and it is very good stuff

 

[nightcrow]

Fabsil Gold , spray it on , let it dry and your good to go

I have a Gortex jacket that was like a sponge in the slightest shower,brushed it over with two coats of standard Fabsil,and it's now completely waterproof in any storm.

 

[Dazb1967]

I'll only really wash my shooting clothing if it gets blood on it, If it's just mud and general dirt I find it cleans itself when out in the rain, one of my little hates is the wife picking my hunting trousers or jackets up and sticking it in the washing machine

 

[Lancaster]

Beware of Fabsil on Goretex type membranes.
1, it can cause the taped seams to detach due to the solvent carrier.
2, it can knacker the breathability of the fabric and membrane, so whilst it keeps the rain out, it also keeps sweat in.

As has been said above, wash using a non detergent liquid soap, or soap flakes, this unclogs the membrane and restores breathability and prevents the outer fabric from wetting out, then use Nikwax wash in, it doesn't need heat to activate the crosslinked polymer.

If a garment has been previously washed in detergent it will have left a water loving, hydrophilic, residue that causes the garment to soak up water more easily and wet out so this has to be removed with a soap.

Check what the garment is made of, NikWax make different formulations for different fabrics, the Cotton Proof can be used as either a wash in, or can be diluted to 10% strength and directly sprayed on using a hand sprayer.

 

[RD88]

I use grangers wash and repel find it ok but needs heat to be activated and my jacket and trousers are not sposed to be tumble dried but I chanced them both quickly in the dryer definitely works better when heated.

 

[finnbear270]

Just decided the Nikwax wash in is the same from their range in the horse rug wash, larger container & less money, Same instructions , same colour coded bottles.

 

[sh1kar]

I think you're find diver daves repel is only sold on ebay and it is very good stuff

And from him direct

 

[GeoffWood]

Does anyone have a link to DiverDave waterproofing spray please?

 

[Utectok]

I think fabsil will totally ruin a breathable garment. Might as well be a plastic jacket then. I have also learnt that breathable membranes work so much better with a quality wicking base layer. I was always wet from sweat and or rain it seemed. Recently I bought a US army jacket with a fancy zip out wicking underlayer and I simply couldn’t believe the difference. I even bought a second zip in base layer so I could wash one.