A .270 shooting 150gr interlocks will kill anything on this island very effectively
Bullet head suggestions for a .270 for wild boar
- Thread starter mikek207
- Start date
Jagare
Well-Known Member
I'm sure that there are plenty of suitable 150grn bullets for the 270 that will kill boar well. I've used the Norma Oryx in my .308 for driven and bait stand boar. I have 3 loads for my double rifle. Sierra pro hunter, fox classic hunter and Lapua Naturalis. All kill boar well.
Now it matters not what bullet you chose or what magic property it has, if you don't put the bullet in the right place the boarwill leg it. They can go a long way with a fatal shot if it's not in the right place to drop them on the spot.
Now it matters not what bullet you chose or what magic property it has, if you don't put the bullet in the right place the boarwill leg it. They can go a long way with a fatal shot if it's not in the right place to drop them on the spot.
John Gryphon
Well-Known Member
Quality too.
Jagare
Well-Known Member
I rate the Norma Oryx as one of the best lead bullets available. I've got 6 retrieved Oryx all with over 90% retained weight and with good expansion.
I tried to regulate them in my double rifle and I must have shot acouple of hundred various hand loads but with no success.
Shooting boar over bait, virtually any bullet should drop a boar with a lug hole shot or a shoulder spine shot.
If someone is a competent shot on running game then a ordinary bullet will do the job.
Whilst I know most of the boar l will shoot driven will be yearlings I like to use a bullet that is going to kill the biggest fothermucker boar that I'm ever likley to encounter.
I've enough .30 Oryx in stock to see me out but if the lead ban becomes reality I've got a fox classic hunter load for the .308 and the 8x57jrs that I'm impressed with on boar.
John Gryphon
Well-Known Member
I have used a few NO`s in 300WM and 9.3x64 maybe others too but cant remember atm. I think I have a couple of boxes of .338`s good to go as well. They are a far better bullet than the NV`s too for bigger game as they are more stoutly constructed. Shot a fair few sambar with the N Alaska`s also.
mikek207
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I ran into a situation where I could only get to 250yds from the boar because of dead ground and livestock, the cold night and barrel sent the bullet slightly high of the heart and through the lungs. The boar ran but when I found it the exit wound was quite small I thought so was looking for suggestions as I’m going to start using home loads from now on and was looking for a rough consensus as to the best expanding bullet heads to try.
I’m doing vermin control for a farmer whose grazing fields were being destroyed.
Attachments
Penyard
Well-Known Member
I think the .270 is ok for the job in hand but is limited in bullet (not head) weight options as others have already said. The Naturescot guidance you are quoting is just that, guidance. I think 150gr is not a bad arbitrary minimum weight to quote in the guidance but in .270 I would probably be happier with a 130gr Fox or Barnes NT than a 150gr standard cup and core bullet. In 7mm or .30 options there are some great 150gr bullets for boar such as Accubond, Partition, Swift Scirocco, Fox or TTSX.
You keep referencing the need for a big wound channel. You first need to get your bullet to penetrate a lot of tough material before getting in to the engine room. Therefore bullet construction is key and hence why I would always recommend a stout bullet of bonded core design like the Oryx or Accubond or a slightly lighter NT such as the TTSX. If you are shooting stationary pigs at relatively close range at a feed station then you will be head shooting anyway and any half decent bullet will do that job no drama so long as the operator is capable of good accuracy and understands the behaviour of boar and their anatomy. However, what about the 2nd pig that stops 100 yards away or the one you bump in to walking to the seat? You need a bullet that can cope with the range of shot placements you encounter as a pig hunter and, in my opinion, that means a stout bullet with plenty of energy.
A standard cup and core or SST in .270 150gr will be fine for head shots at feed stations and fine most of the time on most of the pigs in most of the scenarios but you are, in my opinion, increasing the risk of poor outcomes some of the time on bigger animals or with sub-optimal shot placement.
I have shot a couple of them with a .243 55gr ballistic tip but would strongly advise against it. Last one was a decent sized boar and despite perfect head shot placement it was only stunned and required 2 more!
Just my tuppence worth but based upon 20 years of shooting boar in UK scenarios.
You keep referencing the need for a big wound channel. You first need to get your bullet to penetrate a lot of tough material before getting in to the engine room. Therefore bullet construction is key and hence why I would always recommend a stout bullet of bonded core design like the Oryx or Accubond or a slightly lighter NT such as the TTSX. If you are shooting stationary pigs at relatively close range at a feed station then you will be head shooting anyway and any half decent bullet will do that job no drama so long as the operator is capable of good accuracy and understands the behaviour of boar and their anatomy. However, what about the 2nd pig that stops 100 yards away or the one you bump in to walking to the seat? You need a bullet that can cope with the range of shot placements you encounter as a pig hunter and, in my opinion, that means a stout bullet with plenty of energy.
A standard cup and core or SST in .270 150gr will be fine for head shots at feed stations and fine most of the time on most of the pigs in most of the scenarios but you are, in my opinion, increasing the risk of poor outcomes some of the time on bigger animals or with sub-optimal shot placement.
I have shot a couple of them with a .243 55gr ballistic tip but would strongly advise against it. Last one was a decent sized boar and despite perfect head shot placement it was only stunned and required 2 more!
Just my tuppence worth but based upon 20 years of shooting boar in UK scenarios.
Also common sense plays a big part as the wording's are of no use when it is up on it's toes and off like Red Rum.No they more contradict each otherbut I thought best to keep to the “recommendations” as close as possible.
Any Red or Fallow so much as puts it's head up I am ready to put a second round in and have done.
I think what you are doing for the farmer is not easy but must have the heart rate up a lot
Jagare
Well-Known Member
Even with a bullet that exits boar can be, self sealing and they tend to have a tough constitution. 250 yds is a long shot to get a accurate lug hole shot or a spine shot. It's worth looking at the internal lay out of the boars organs and skeleton . Hit them in the lungs, a fatal shot but they can go a long way. Because the spine is lower in the shoulder area its easy to shoot over the spine hit the tags and it will often knock the boar of its feet then they will jump up and leg it then you have a real follow up on your hands.
How did pro hunter get into that mix ? while Its just std cup and core ( good bullet on deer mind ) ? all the others mentioned are not they are bonded or monolithic , why did you rate it in the mix ?
John Gryphon
Well-Known Member
I think that you will find that is erroneous Ed.
The heavier projectile delivers more...I will check with Nathan.
Because it doesn’t break up when driven hard into bone/shoulder shots like the Gameking can
Ergo - less frangible
Nope
150gr
MV 2850fps standard in factory ammo
Shop Core-Lokt 270 Win Ammo 150 | 27810
Shopping for the Core-Lokt - Learn more about the latest Core-Lokt and other hunting or shooting gear at Remington.
www.remington.com
At 100yds E 2355
At 200yds E 2042
At 300 yds E 1762
130gr
Shop Core-Lokt 270 Win Ammo 130 | 27808
Shopping for the Core-Lokt - Learn more about the latest Core-Lokt and other hunting or shooting gear at Remington.
www.remington.com
MV 3100fps
ME 2774
100yds E2424
200yds E2112
300 yds E1833
Across the board.
Run them in like for like barrel lengths and the pattern is continued.
The velocity drop is significant enough to negate any energy increase
The resultant trajectory drop makes matters worse
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
I don’t think the problem is the bullet per se, rather its the range you are trying to shoot boar at.
They are tough animals. At 250 you have already lost quite a bit of energy. Pigs have tough skin, significant layers of fat and tough bones. On a 3 or 4 year old pig the skin on the shoulders is more akin to the wall of a tyre than soft deer skin.
Their body structure is significantly different to deer. The heart and lungs are in the bottom half of the body and further forward than deer. The hump on the back is not vitals but just meat and bone. A behind the shoulder shot rather taking out lungs etc will take out liver and guts and they will go a long way before dying. Or they will attack and do a lot of damage.
Get close and put the bullet in the right place and they drop perfectly well.
If you are doing vermin control, don’t shoot the mature sows, shoot the little ones first. Shoot them in the fields where they do damage and they soon learn the lesson. If shoot the matriarchs the youngsters just cause even more damage and spread over a wider area.
Best is to have a trailer mounted shooting hut. Park it overlooking the damage and sit up at night. It’s what the continental hunters do to keep pigs off crops.
John Gryphon
Well-Known Member
I actually checked several sites that came up in favour of my original reply Ed. Some one doesn't agree with Rems figures.
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
They wallow in mud then it dries out in the fur to become a kind of armour plate the bullet hits this and begins to expand before even reaching the skin layer then it enters the fat layer then on to the organs then on out the other side if you are lucky, the fat on the exit side can close up and stop the bleeding out.
Norma.
130 gr, energy at 300m = 1533
150 gr, energy at 300m = 1391
Federal
130 gr, energy at 300 = 1481
150 gr, energy at 300 = 1068
These are from their standard lines, matched for bullet type. I could keep going.
There is absolutely nothing to be gained from using 150gr in .270. Better to switch to .308 if you want to shoot 150gr.
Sure, you can load them up hotter. But then you’d need to compare to a hotter loaded 130gr, and the difference would persist.
John Gryphon
Well-Known Member
Well I'm ****ed if I know as I did check several sites. Where are the resident ballistic calculators when you need them. As far as gain I imagine that a heavier bullet wouldn't be as frangible as a lesser weighed one..where are these expert gurus?
Similar threads
