Zeroing at 1” high question

[Foxyboy43]

There is nothing as informative and useful for the future of your shooting than after choosing your initial zero, to shoot targets at 50yds increments out to however far you realistically feel confident to shoot at a living animal. You might be surprised at what you find but you will also be educated. Then when you have found your preferred zero stick to it.

 

[cjm1066]

After time one gets to know and trust a scopes adjustment.

If it's a quality scope the adjustments should be as specified. If it's a cheapie?

You need to remove any doubt before shooting at a deer. 1.5" high works for me.

 

[Utectok]

A box of standard shotgun clays can be fun. They are 4” across so a good kill zone target. Put them at various ranges on edge (with a backstop of course) and short as many as you can out to 200m or so. Fun off sticks practice.

 

[HonestJohn]

I will definitely practice at those ranges too before shooting at live quarry. As I owe it to anything I shoot to be responsible and ethical and not stretch myself

That’s nice to hear, and keep that up your whole shooting career you will avoid dreaded nights of wondering, or searching. Now add head shooting to the list of not-do’s and you’d be welcome in my ground.

 

[Biathlonjimmy]

Don't assume, verify.

Most of my deer rifles are zeroed at 200yds. I fall back every 50yds to a point that I'm comfortable for the particular rifle. On the way back to the target I put a few rounds into it at 100yds. Now I know my poi given the conditions over distance.

Ballistic calculators are great but nothing is better than field verification for confidence.

There is nothing wrong with "zeroing" an inch high if you want to be roughly there but why be mediocre where with a little effort you can be better.

Ask yourself what your ground is like and anticipate likely ranges for shots. It may be the it's so varied you could plump for the middle distance. It may be fairly specific, I have a rifle that is zeroed at 50yds. It gets taken to woods to stalk muntjac on foot.

On the positive side, the more you practice well, the better you'll become.

Once you're comfortable, start putting some phys in for 5mins prior. It's amazing the effect of raising your heart rate to 160-180 has on your shooting. It can't quite replicate the excitement of getting buck fever but practicing under stress will make you a far better shot.

Marry that with good field craft and common sense and you'll excel.

Some divergence there but nevertheless these are things that have improved my ability to take deer.

 

[big ears]

Good evening,
I am still pretty new to rifle shooting/deer stalking and this is probably a very silly question to a lot of you.

So yesterday I zeroed my new rifle at dead on at 100m however I now think my best option would be to have it set at 1” high at 100 to save me from having to think about holdover out to 150/160m or so!

My question is, without heading back to a range would I be correct in assuming a couple of clicks up on my scope which has “1 click = 1cm/100m” would give me a new zero of 1” high at 100m?

Thanks!
Tom

If it’s a good quality scope and set square in the mounts it’s perfectly reasonable to do what you suggest. As said I would go up 3 clicks.
If you chest shoot the margin of error is manageable.
1-1.5” high at a hundred is way to go for hunting. You didn’t mention calibre but for most common ones you will be close to spot on at 150m and 2” down at 200m.
So for sensible stalking distances it’s point and squeeze.
After 200m wind and drop play a big part.
Good luck.

 

[bullet chucker]

May I just say, Don't over heat your barrel with ALL' this different range grouping, give it time to cool between shot strings.

BC.

 

[Lateral]

However you decide to zero the scope, having an idea of "drop" out to whatever distance, 200-250m for most, you're prepared to shoot, isn't difficult.

Because let's say you zero 1 > 1.5" high at 100m/yds, what do you need to do if a target comes out at 30 > 50m/yds ?

Zero'd at 100, the most you're likely to require holding over, is a couple of inches on most hunting rifles, which is still within the 4" target area ?

If I'm taking a longer shot, I just aim a little higher.

 

[maximus otter]

However you decide to zero the scope, having an idea of "drop" out to whatever distance, 200-250m for most, you're prepared to shoot, isn't difficult.

Because let's say you zero 1 > 1.5" high at 100m/yds, what do you need to do if a target comes out at 30 > 50m/yds ?

Zero'd at 100, the most you're likely to require holding over, is a couple of inches on most hunting rifles, which is still within the 4" target area ?

If I'm taking a longer shot, I just aim a little higher.

a) ">" means "more than."

b) For my stalking rifle, zeroed 1.75" high at 100 yards, I am also dead on at about 45 yards. There's no need to fret about targets at 30 - 50m.

maximus otter

 

[Lateral]

a) ">" means "more than."

b) For my stalking rifle, zeroed 1.75" high at 100 yards, I am also dead on at about 45 yards. There's no need to fret about targets at 30 - 50m.

maximus otter

Sure, it just means the someone needs to spend the time checking what "their" rifle does. For most deer stalkers, I think it's pretty straight forward, and people "overthink" things.

How many people are actually ranging the target ?

 

[ofbiro]

Before laser range finders and ballistic data on telephone encouraged somebody to act as a Gun Position Officer, here on the Continent the zeroing method was: 40 mm (1.57") high at 100 m and then it was suitable within 200-250-300 m according to the caliber.

 

[Utectok]

Sure, it just means the someone needs to spend the time checking what "their" rifle does. For most deer stalkers, I think it's pretty straight forward, and people "overthink" things.

How many people are actually ranging the target ?

I’ll always range if I guess it’s over 100-150m

 

[big ears]

I’ll always range if I guess it’s over 100-150m

Sit in high seat and range different points like trees and hedge edges.
When a deer comes out it’s way to reference.
Saves time

 

[ejg]

Rangefinder in the binos helps as one mostly checks a deer first with the binos anyway. Range while at it. I zero at 100m and set the turrets at whatever I need to. Mostly 3 clicks up (3 cm/100m ) if out stalking. All of the better scopes we had so far have been absolutely spot on in turret movement. Every scope can just be swopped out with the next, Premier Reticles vs 6x S&B vs 2x Zeiss Conquest absolutely the same. I have my drop charts for the Conquest converted to meters from MOA. Works a treat.
edi

 

[Utectok]

Sit in high seat and range different points like trees and hedge edges.
When a deer comes out it’s way to reference.
Saves time

It’s a plan but also I get so bored in high seats that I’ve only ever in my whole life shot one deer from one….. and I shot 50-60 deer a year so it’s not for me!

 

[25 Sharps]

Sure, it just means the someone needs to spend the time checking what "their" rifle does. For most deer stalkers, I think it's pretty straight forward, and people "overthink" things.

How many people are actually ranging the target ?

Me for one…..

 

[Biathlonjimmy]

Me for one…..

#metoo

 

[Eddie P]

I'll range a deer, then range a point to stalk to, that way I know when I'm within my shootable range.
Or if in a highseat, use the rangefinder to work out an arc of fire that is within range.

 

[WalkedUp]

When in a high seat or waiting for foxes I will tend to range a few reference points with my little old Bushnell, so I can quickly establish parameters to range anything that pops up. However when stalking in I tend to ditch anything extraneous… and go back to range *after* the shot is taken as part of my post shot analysis. My skills are not so great that I can shoot past the MPBR of my .270” anyway.

 

[VSS]

I'll range a deer, then range a point to stalk to, that way I know when I'm within my shootable range.

That assumes that you'll be walking in a straight line towards the deer. In my experience, that's very rarely the case.