Cleaning Schultz & Larsen Barrels

[South Pender]

I'm wondering what process you guys with Schultz & Larsen rifles follow when cleaning your barrels. I know that they are fairly common rifles in the UK, but here in Canada, the newer series rifles (Victory, Legacy, Classic, etc.) are almost nonexistent. (The older rear-locking S&L rifles, however, are fairly common here.) I've picked up a nearly-new Victory and have read the owner's manual and have discovered that S&L recommend (fairly strongly) against using cleaning solvents on their barrels--instead recommending just using oil on patches or the VFG pads. My cleaning regimen over the years has always been to use solvents and bronze brushes to remove carbon and copper fouling. So my question to you S&L owners is: have you been able to keep your barrels clean without using solvents? And what is it about S&L barrels that leads to this recommendation?

 

[NP435]

I'm wondering what process you guys with Schultz & Larsen rifles follow when cleaning your barrels. I know that they are fairly common rifles in the UK, but here in Canada, the newer series rifles (Victory, Legacy, Classic, etc.) are almost nonexistent. (The older rear-locking S&L rifles, however, are fairly common here.) I've picked up a nearly-new Victory and have read the owner's manual and have discovered that S&L recommend (fairly strongly) against using cleaning solvents on their barrels--instead recommending just using oil on patches or the VFG pads. My cleaning regimen over the years has always been to use solvents and bronze brushes to remove carbon and copper fouling. So my question to you S&L owners is: have you been able to keep your barrels clean without using solvents? And what is it about S&L barrels that leads to this recommendation?

Steel is steel, what works in one barrel will work in the rest. My sole caution is if you use Sweets 7.62 is follow the directions to the letter and use a nylon brush the bronze brush will be eaten by Sweets. There are lots of options to clean copper such as Bore Tech that are less toxic to humans and wont pit barrels if left to soak.

 

[Kiwiguy]

I'm wondering what process you guys with Schultz & Larsen rifles follow when cleaning your barrels. I know that they are fairly common rifles in the UK, but here in Canada, the newer series rifles (Victory, Legacy, Classic, etc.) are almost nonexistent. (The older rear-locking S&L rifles, however, are fairly common here.) I've picked up a nearly-new Victory and have read the owner's manual and have discovered that S&L recommend (fairly strongly) against using cleaning solvents on their barrels--instead recommending just using oil on patches or the VFG pads. My cleaning regimen over the years has always been to use solvents and bronze brushes to remove carbon and copper fouling. So my question to you S&L owners is: have you been able to keep your barrels clean without using solvents? And what is it about S&L barrels that leads to this recommendation?

Congratulations on purchasing a Schultz and Larsen Victory in Canada, a rare thing from what I have read.

My wife and I own five S&L rifles between us, three Victory rifles a Legacy and a Classic DL which was the first S&L rifle I bought for my wife.

After reading the owners manual I opted to follow their suggestion and only clean with an oily patch and monitor the carbon and copper build up with my Hawkeye bore scope. Although the Eezox oil I was using was removing the loose carbon I noticed as the shot count increased the carbon and copper build up also very slowly increased. This rifle is chambered in 22-250.

Although the build up didn't appear to alter the accuracy of the rifle my obsession with clean barrels finally got the better of me and I cleaned it back to bare steel using a combination of KG 1 carbon remover and KG 12 cooper solvent with a bronze brush.

All our Schultz and Larsen rifles are cleaned with the same products and I definitely haven't seen any negative effects from an accuracy point of view. My Victory 22-250 has had more than 300 rounds through it and it still produces sub 1/2" 100m 5 shot groups.

 

[Cogswell & Harrison]

I have a Legacy in .222 Rem and follow S&L's advice to the letter, that's to say the VFG system and the occasional use of their bore paste. No solvents, just before, during and after use of Clenzoil gun oil.

Accuracy hovers around the 5/8" to 1/2" mark at 100m and round count is now in the region of 1100 or so.

 

[cjm1066]

Is the bore paste recommended by S@L?

The bore scope won't liar.

 

[Cogswell & Harrison]

Is the bore paste recommended by S@L?

The bore scope won't liar.

It is recommended, as is the VFG system, by Alan Rhone who import S&L as the best way to conform to the manufacturers instructions. I tend to use the paste plus the intensive felts after every 50 rounds or so.

 

[gixer1]

I would use a patch of boretech, wait 10-15 mins, then 10 passes (in and out) with a nylon brush and then patch until the patches are coming out clean and then I use a pull though with the end soaked in legia spray. I’ve had the bore’s scopes a few times and they are pretty clean and in good condition.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Gixer

 

[Sako75Hunter]

There are lots of options to clean copper such as Bore Tech that are less toxic to humans and wont pit barrels if left to soak.

Reading this has me slightly worried, as I've been using KG SF-112 to clean my centrefire barrels without worrying too much how long the solvent sits in there (with the idea that it can't do any harm!).

The instructions say the product "contains no ammonia and will not harm your bore in any way", but also to allow it sit in the bore for 3-5 minutes with the first patch, after which "soaking is not required".

I reckon I'll be following that procedure to the letter from now on, just to be on the safe side.

 

[Will the chippy]

Dont forget all barrels are made of steel, that's all. It not magical mystery metal that might dissolve. Treat it like any other un coated piece of steel. If it gets wet, dry it off. If it's mucky clean it, get the solvent off it and then oil it with a decent oil. And a brass mop will not hurt your barrel. Brass is much softer and a good scrubbing won't kill it. If you've got a firearm that will be stored for ages a smear of grease in the bore wont hurt, just mop it out well before you use it.

 

[Kiwiguy]

1

 

[Kiwiguy]

Reading this has me slightly worried, as I've been using KG SF-112 to clean my centrefire barrels without worrying too much how long the solvent sits in there (with the idea that it can't do any harm!).

The instructions say the product "contains no ammonia and will not harm your bore in any way", but also to allow it sit in the bore for 3-5 minutes with the first patch, after which "soaking is not required".

I reckon I'll be following that procedure to the letter from now on, just to be on the safe side.

When I started using KG1 and KG12 products I was concerned that they could cause damage to my barrels.

I had just had a new Pacnor CM barrel fitted to my Carl Gustaf 9000 22-250 so I took the end cut off sections and cleaned them with Brakleen to remove all oil. Then ever two days for the next six weeks I put a couple of drops of each product on the sections and there was no damage or rust observed at all.

 

[J@son]

I just use the VFG felts - five or six "normal" ones plus one "intensive" and keep going until they come out clean. I have two S&L rifles - one in .308 the other .243 - and I've never put anything else through either of them.... Except a bore snake which I run through every time a gun goes into the field regardless of whether I shoot it or not.

 

[Sako75Hunter]

When I started using KG1 and KG12 products I was concerned that they could cause damage to my barrels.

I had just had a new Pacnor CM barrel fitted to my Carl Gustaf 9000 22-250 so I took the end cut off sections and cleaned them with Brakleen to remove all oil. Then ever two days for the next six weeks I put a couple of drops of each product on the sections and there was no damage or rust observed at all.

Thanks for the reply and info, @Kiwiguy , that's great to know!

 

[Rutland lad]

I do not own a S and L but my stalking partner does.
He religiously follows their cleaning instructions and has been told the ONLY time there’s an issue with S and L barrels are when people DO NOT follow the manufacturers own instructions. If not followed the warranty is invalid apparently.

 

[jamesey]

Steel is steel, what works in one barrel will work in the rest. My sole caution is if you use Sweets 7.62 is follow the directions to the letter and use a nylon brush the bronze brush will be eaten by Sweets. There are lots of options to clean copper such as Bore Tech that are less toxic to humans and wont pit barrels if left to soak.

One up for boretech ! Fantastic stuff

 

[Steff]

I do not own a S and L but my stalking partner does.
He religiously follows their cleaning instructions and has been told the ONLY time there’s an issue with S and L barrels are when people DO NOT follow the manufacturers own instructions. If not followed the warranty is invalid apparently.

Would you follow a manufacturer's advice that tells you to not clean your car but only to let the dirt be washed off by the rain?

 

[Rutland lad]

Would you follow a manufacturer's advice that tells you to not clean your car but only to let the dirt be washed off by the rain?

I’m sorry but I don’t understand the point of your post. Are you saying the instructions are right or wrong ?

As I don’t own an S & L it’s not something I’m over bothered about to be honest. I’m just passing on what’s been said.

 

[Steff]

I’m sorry but I don’t understand the point of your post. Are you saying the instructions are right or wrong ?

As I don’t own an S & L it’s not something I’m over bothered about to be honest. I’m just passing on what’s been said.

The point is that 'cleaning' a barrel solely with oil and felts is no better than to hope that a car will be clean after having stood in the rain. The advice by S&L is not worth the paper it is written on.

 

[ejg]

I am not sure which steel S&L uses however it needs to be hardened to higher value than a normal barrel due to the locking lugs being part of the barrel. Morton told us this is the reason why they can't use stainless steel for their barrels. My guess is that S&L have seen many barrels that were cleaned to death and therefore the instructions. The biggest killer for non stainless barrels is corrosion not copper build up at least for stalkers who fire less than say 50 shots a year. I have one stalking rifle with non stainless Lothar Walther barrel and it needs a clean/oil after every outing in our damp climate due to rust forming in the barrel.... if a shot was fired or not.
edi

 

[HonestJohn]

The point is that 'cleaning' a barrel solely with oil and felts is no better than to hope that a car will be clean after having stood in the rain. The advice by S&L is not worth the paper it is written on.

To be fair, in the last 25 odd years I’ve only cleaned with Ballistol universal oil, always had clean barrels and good shooters, no pitting.

LW barrels rust and pit like a bad dream, good barrels, but will almost pit in the bore during an outing