Deep Cleaning....

[tom_0787]

I have a new stock on the way for my Sako 85 30-06, the scope has been sent to Swaro for a service as the BT lock isn't working and I'm going to be getting a new mod too.

Once it's all back together I'd like to develop a copper load for it, so now seems like the perfect time to give the bore a good cleaning ahead of reassembly.

I have the caliber specific VFG felts that I use after every couple of outings.

I would really appreciate guidance on the best solvents / cleaners for a deep clean to remove all fouling before the rifle is reassembled in its new form

 

[muddy42]

I find the only way to get right back is multiple soakings and passes with a bronze brush. I use wipe out tactical advantage, because it removes copper and carbon, but there are lots of copper solvents that will work.

 

[Jamsie]

JB Bore paste.

Jamsie

 

[takbok]

JB bore paste

 

[303British]

If I want to take any of mine back to shiny i give it a good go with a bronze brush and a solvent to remove any easy to remove fouling, good few passes.

I then use KG bore polish on a brass Jag, has to be a tight fit, this will remove any fouling.

I then flush out with IPA or similar before oiling.

If the stocks off I would have a good look at your trigger mech and give your bolt a good once over as well.

 

[muddy42]

P.S. bronze or brass can react withe the solvent, making you think the bore is still dirty in a maddening way, so eventually you need to shift tactics. I flush (I use meths), wipe the rod and switch to using solvent on a plastic brush and/or jag. Then when the patches finally come out clean after a soak you should be clean.

 

[Stalker-of-the-deer]

Good scrub with botetech c4 carbon and cu remover.

Use a nylon brush though.

 

[Donkey Basher]

A combination of well soaked patch, leave solvent to soak a bit then scrub with a stiff well fitting nylon brush also liberally doused in solvent, then wet patch to clear - it’ll come out black. Repeat as many times as you need to. Once you think it’s clean then use a couple of VFG felts with the nut screwed down so they are a tight fit, soak with Kroil & then smear with JB bore paste. Set a rod stop & bore guide so the felt only just pops out of the crown then scrub in & out until the felts are seen to be black at the crown, remove the dirty felts & pass a Kroil soaked patch or two through & repeat with Kroil soaked felts & JB paste. If you use a small LED torch shining into the breech you will see the bore getting better if you look in from the muzzle end.

Alternate the brush soaked in solvent & the VFG felts for several cycles & you’ll eventually get to a state where you’re not getting black covered patchs/felts. It may take a while to reach that stage though depending on how much use the rifle has had & what your normal cleaning regime is.

Hope this helps

Edit: sorry, should have said, I use Butch’s Boreshine solvent but that’s only because that’s what I bought years ago & keep buying when needed.

 

[Ratsbadboy]

The following brought my mates filthy (and I mean filthy! - both carbon and copper) .243 back to shiny bare metal:

1) Couple of patches soaked in Boretech Eliminator.
2) 15 strokes with a bronze brush soaked in Boretech Eliminator.
3) Repeat 1).
4) as many dry patches as it takes to remove the Boretech Eliminator.
5) 15 strokes of a nylon brush soaked in KG2
6) Patch out the KG2 using a solvent/dry patches (for a solvent I used white spirit).*
7) 1 patch moistened with Ballistol.
8) Push through a few dry patches.

* I did need to do the 15 strokes using a nylon brush/KG2 twice to get the carbon in the throat.

 

[Sika98k]

Since being introduced to Thorroclean I’ve never used anything else. A 2 part cleaner which works very effectively.

 

[fizzbangwhallop]

Since being introduced to Thorroclean I’ve never used anything else. A 2 part cleaner which works very effectively.

Especially with the Iosso stiff bristle nylon brushes!

 

[JonR]

I use JB paste to start with, just to eat up some of the stuff the various other cleaning compounds would be laboriously eroding. Using your preferred solution (I like Butch's Bore Paste, but I have heard it's not actually as good as they say for heavy copper fouling), get rodding with a nylon brush, and patches, then JB paste again. Use a bore scope if you can - it'll make cleaning a far more reliable, efficient process, because you can both stop when it's done, as well as work on more stubborn areas such as carbon fouling. You can probably ignore most of the indications you might think is present on the patch - my borescope would always find pockets of crud after the first couple of 'clean' patches came out.

 

[Edinburgh Rifles]

ask 100 people how to clean a rifle and get 101 answers!

Physical removal of loose carbon - patch with carbon remover (IMO KG1 is the best on the market)
Chemical removal of carbon - brush and leave/patch out - (as above)
Chemical removal of copper - brush and leave/patch out

Depending on what you are trying to achieve I personally see more people complaining about accuracy issues post "deep clean" of a well used rifle and significant settle down time.
There is no need to deep clean before moving to non lead

 

[jon2]

Another advocate for JB paste. Mechanical clean all day long over chemical. For what it’s worth I also listened to Bryan Litz once saying it’s the only method he uses.

 

[takbok]

Another advocate for JB paste. Mechanical clean all day long over chemical. For what it’s worth I also listened to Bryan Litz once saying it’s the only method he uses.

So much simpler and quicker I find.

 

[trickie]

I’ve seen the same video JB paster is on my list when I run out of the Boretech equivalent.
Boretech stuff on the whole is very good, as are the the Lostock brushes, very stiff outlast all the others I’ve used over the years.