The Hikmicro 4k Lite is terrible. Advice welcomed

[12gsnapcaps]

Hi All,

I've been using a DNT Zulus mark 1 for a while on my AGT Vulcan 3 sub 12 in .177

It is SUPERB. Easy to use, excellent clarity etc. I've now put that on my HW95 in .22 and Just zeroed it in, took about 5 mins, and I was hitting rabbit head gongs at 70 yards.

I bought a Hikmicro 4k LITE on here off a fellow, it was almost brand new, he'd bought it and couldnt get on with it.

I'm now facing the same issue, I can't get on with it. It's inferior in almost every way to the Zulus Mark 1 (let alone the mark 2)

I'm going to list a feew issues here and if anyone can offer advice id appreciate it.

1. The LRF 'box' is right down the bottom of the screen. This means I can only use it on the first two stages of the magnicifcation. Can i move this box?
2. The magnification is billed at x20 but it's quite abit less than the zulus. ie: at the same range, I can make out the target much much better with the zulus and the target is bigger. for example, at 50 yards I cant make out any pellet strikes/holes with the Hik, but I can with the Zulus at 70 yards. How do I check I have it set up for the full magnification range?
3. Everything is so THIN. I struggle to make out the crosshairs, boxes, lrf etc as it's all very thin and small. Can I make this bigger?

I'll add some more questions when i think of them. I want to try one more time with this Hik before I sell it on at a loss and buy a Zulus Mark2.

 

[WalkedUp]

1. The LRF box cannot be moved, the only way to adjust this is the centre the scope with adjustable mounts. Very frustrating.

 

[Tim.243]

Hi All,

I've been using a DNT Zulus mark 1 for a while on my AGT Vulcan 3 sub 12 in .177

It is SUPERB. Easy to use, excellent clarity etc. I've now put that on my HW95 in .22 and Just zeroed it in, took about 5 mins, and I was hitting rabbit head gongs at 70 yards.

I bought a Hikmicro 4k LITE on here off a fellow, it was almost brand new, he'd bought it and couldnt get on with it.

I'm now facing the same issue, I can't get on with it. It's inferior in almost every way to the Zulus Mark 1 (let alone the mark 2)

I'm going to list a feew issues here and if anyone can offer advice id appreciate it.

1. The LRF 'box' is right down the bottom of the screen. This means I can only use it on the first two stages of the magnicifcation. Can i move this box?
2. The magnification is billed at x25 but it's quite abit less than the zulus. ie: at the same range, I can make out the target much much better with thre zulus and thr target is bigger. for example, at 50 hards I cant make out any pellet strikes/holes with the Hik, but I can with the Zulus at 70 yards. How do I check I have it set up for the full magnification range?
3. Everything is so THIN. I struggle to make out the crosshairs, boxes, lrf etc as it's all very thin and small. Can I make this bigger?

I'll add some more questions when i think of them. I want to try one more time with this Hik before I sell it on at a loss and buy a Zulus Mark2.

It's big brother.
I know it's 120 yards as I pasted it out after the fox fell over.

 

[WalkedUp]

2. No comment, the Zulus looks to have better night time crispness at close range. Unsure about the daytime picture.
3. Yes! The latest firmware update allows the user to set the thickness of the cross hairs etc. It is well worth doing. I’ve set the central cross as white and the ballistic cross as red. I’ve also not centred the image as it gives a wider field of view and keeps my LRF on screen up to 14x.

 

[tarponhead]

I have this scope and had a similar problem. AI tells me the same - the further X and Y are from zero, the furthe out the LRF box will be. A rail or different ring heights might help. On the image quality, have you adjusted the focus at the objective and at the eye screen? I can see .17 holes at 85 yards albeit not in the highest mag. I’m sure you’ll have no shortage of takers if you do prefer the Zulus interface. Best of luck - tech is rubbish when it does work the way you hoped.

 

[12gsnapcaps]

@WalkedUp I've already updated the firmware - I don't see any option for the thickeness, where do i find this?
What do you mean about 'centering the image'? -

 

[Donkey Basher]

A set of Sportsmatch ATP66 (30mm tube) will enable you to move the lrf box ‘mechanically’ to where you want it.

I don’t have the lite version but on the full fat one you have a focus ring at the front, have you tried that to see if you can pick out the shot holes better?

Also on the full fat version you can select the reticles, both in form & colour, assume you can do the same with the lite version? - give it a try.

 

[12gsnapcaps]

I have this scope and had a similar problem. AI tells me the same - the further X and Y are from zero, the furthe out the LRF box will be. A rail or different ring heights might help. On the image quality, have you adjusted the focus at the objective and at the eye screen? I can see .17 holes at 85 yards albeit not in the highest mag. I’m sure you’ll have no shortage of takers if you do prefer the Zulus interface. Best of luck - tech is rubbish when it does work the way you hoped.

Have you adjusted the focus at the objective and at the eye screen? - Yes. The image at 50 yards is crap, can't see any .177 holes (today) Pick up the zulus mark 1 seconds later and can see .177 holes at 70 yards.

 

[WalkedUp]

@WalkedUp I've already updated the firmware - I don't see any option for the thickeness, where do i find this?
What do you mean about 'centering the image'? -

I don’t have it to hand as I’m in work, but I will make a video or list the steps later. PM me your number and I can call you tomorrow to run through.

The names for the settings are awful, not intuitive at all.

 

[tarponhead]

I’ll look at the Zulus again - I was considering a second 4k lite for my .22lr - but your experiences warrants another look at the Zulus. If it doesn’t suit you, no amount of opinions the other way will help - we all see things differently. Life’s too short to live in frustration.

 

[12gsnapcaps]

Few more issues;

The dials, knobs, and AO is so damn stiff. It's a gargqntuan effort to turn them. do this get easier/weaker with time?
With the LRF - I'm often pressing the button and it doesnt range the target, theres no noise or indication that it's worked etc.
PIP - when I double click the bottom button to enable PIP, it zooms out my main image - so it's pointless. Is there any way to have PIP AND a main zoom?

 

[Tim.243]

Few more issues;

The dials, knobs, and AO is so damn stiff. It's a gargqntuan effort to turn them. do this get easier/weaker with time?
With the LRF - I'm often pressing the button and it doesnt range the target, theres no noise or indication that it's worked etc.
PIP - when I double click the bottom button to enable PIP, it zooms out my main image - so it's pointless. Is there any way to have PIP AND a main zoom?

Just sell it and save the pages of a potential heart attack

 

[WalkedUp]

Is there any way to have PIP AND a main zoom?

I don’t know sorry

 

[WalkedUp]

do this get easier/weaker with time?

They should not be stiff at all, that is concerning. Although I have a throw lever on the AO.

 

[Blackwood Outdoors]

The DNT Zulus V2 is the best value, best performing night vision scope out there at it's price point... Others are good, but the Zulus V2 has it nailed.

 

[WalkedUp]

The DNT Zulus V2 is the best value, best performing night vision scope out there at it's price point... Others are good, but the Zulus V2 has it nailed.

What is the minimum parallax focus distance on the v2?

 

[Mr. Gain]

Few more issues;

The dials, knobs, and AO is so damn stiff. It's a gargqntuan effort to turn them. do this get easier/weaker with time?
With the LRF - I'm often pressing the button and it doesnt range the target, theres no noise or indication that it's worked etc.
PIP - when I double click the bottom button to enable PIP, it zooms out my main image - so it's pointless. Is there any way to have PIP AND a main zoom?

The point of PiP is to give you a zoom for ID/aiming in the PiP box while maintaining the maximum FoV in the main image for situational awareness. Zooming the main image as well would diminish that functionality. Conversely, zooming the main image out automatically fulfills the function of PiP just as much as zooming the PiP box in manually does.
The ranging box is off-centre because your mounts/rail are off-centre, so the only way the scope can put the reticle on target is to squint at the target through the edge of the display. Sort out your mounts, and zeroing will put your reticle in the centre of the display, and thus much closer to the ranging box, which is permanently aligned close to the centre of the display and will therefore stay in view as you zoom in.
There many be actual performance issues with the HM 4KL, but the above are just user preference/error.

 

[scotch_egg]

At night just had the Zulus V2 and pard Ds35/70 side by side. I forgot my DS37/70.

The pard and Zulus were almost indistinguishable. My dad took a fox at 232m with the pard as I watched through the Zulus. I have taken a fox over 300m with the pard and would with the Zulus.

The Alex last light needs to be addressed. Because it can’t be beaten currently. But at 1100g it’s more than I need to be carrying and that’s without an illuminator.

 

[Blackwood Outdoors]

What is the minimum parallax focus distance on the v2?

Focus distance, very close down to 5yds it has an excellent broad focus range....

You have youtubers, influencers, retailers, marketing... they all have there own spin to sell products, even if they are good or not...I use every product
extensively, the DNT Zulus V2 punches way above it's price tag in comparision to the rest...

 

[David.evans]

And you don’t tell porkers Ian