New to reloading, in need of some guidance please

[NP435]

Hi Guys,

Ive recently got set up to load for my 22-250.
All has gone well and my ammo has been producing some fantastic groups (0.2-0.5” @ 100yds). However I’m really struggling to achieve what I would call a desirable SD (< 15fps?). Most of my 10 shot strings are getting me an SD somewhere around 27fps.

I have tested this ammo out to 500yds and it’s fully capable of maintaining 1 moa out to that range so arguably more than adequate for a foxing load. However I’m not one to settle for mediocrity and I’d like to get to the bottom of where I’m going wrong.

I’m loading for 22-250, 1:10 phoenix barrel.

60gr V-Max (COL all within 0.002 of each other)

34gr RS52 Powder (charges double checked on digital and mechanical scale)

Once fired Winchester brass (well tumbled and all trimmed to within 0.002” of each other)

Magtech large primers

Load averages 3250fps

Any advice on how I can improve my stats would be much appreciated, thanks in advance!

You may not get the desired sd no matter what you do, is this load below maximum published data? Often case filling charges give better groups.

 

[nocturnaldave]

Even if you do better the round there is no point to it. None of us on here can shoot well enough to see it in practice!

 

[CBJackson]

You may not get the desired sd no matter what you do, is this load below maximum published data? Often case filling charges give better groups.

Hi there,
I’m running 1gr under the max load published in the RS manual.

 

[Bo Diddley]

None of us on here can shoot well enough to see it in practice!

You speak for yourself mate.........

 

[bri2506]

Are using any sort of mandrel die after they're resized? I started doing it with my .308 and 6br loads and started getting even tighter groups and and an ES of about 10-15fps with the .308 and my last group of 20 with the 6br was 12fps ES.

I was getting 25ish FPS ES before with both calibres.

Nothing else had changed apart from running it through the extra die.
It was one of the UK team F-class guys that said to do it and it worked a treat.

I also found using a mandrel helped with sd and group size.

 

[HandB]

Hi Guys,

Ive recently got set up to load for my 22-250.
All has gone well and my ammo has been producing some fantastic groups (0.2-0.5” @ 100yds). However I’m really struggling to achieve what I would call a desirable SD (< 15fps?). Most of my 10 shot strings are getting me an SD somewhere around 27fps.

I have tested this ammo out to 500yds and it’s fully capable of maintaining 1 moa out to that range so arguably more than adequate for a foxing load. However I’m not one to settle for mediocrity and I’d like to get to the bottom of where I’m going wrong.

I’m loading for 22-250, 1:10 phoenix barrel.

60gr V-Max (COL all within 0.002 of each other)

34gr RS52 Powder (charges double checked on digital and mechanical scale)

Once fired Winchester brass (well tumbled and all trimmed to within 0.002” of each other)

Magtech large primers

Load averages 3250fps

Any advice on how I can improve my stats would be much appreciated, thanks in advance!

0.2-0.5 moa is brilliant grouping performance - better than most reloaders achieve imho. Don't change a thing.

 

[CBJackson]

I also found using a mandrel helped with sd and group size.

Are using any sort of mandrel die after they're resized? I started doing it with my .308 and 6br loads and started getting even tighter groups and and an ES of about 10-15fps with the .308 and my last group of 20 with the 6br was 12fps ES.

I was getting 25ish FPS ES before with both calibres.

Nothing else had changed apart from running it through the extra die.
It was one of the UK team F-class guys that said to do it and it worked a treat.

No I’ve not been using a mandrel…. will certainly be giving that a try! Thanks for the reply much appreciated

 

[finnbear270]

Maybe a Chronograph "Quality" issue.

 

[Donkey Basher]

For me, I’d look at the case volume & get that consistent. Some years ago I had a ‘eureka’ moment when shooting my 6mmBR at 1000 yards - case volume affects velocity & the relatively small 6mmBR case was giving me a practical demonstration of this with vertical stringing on the target.

Since then I’ve always sorted my brass & make sure that I only use same case volume for when it matters.

The photo below was taken when I was developing a deer load for my 6.5x47 & yes I know the MV is positively pedestrian but it does the job thank you very much

 

[Donkey Basher]

Even if you do better the round there is no point to it. None of us on here can shoot well enough to see it in practice!

“Cow’s arse - this is Banjo - send position. Over.”

 

[CBJackson]

For me, I’d look at the case volume & get that consistent. Some years ago I had a ‘eureka’ moment when shooting my 6mmBR at 1000 yards - case volume affects velocity & the relatively small 6mmBR case was giving me a practical demonstration of this with vertical stringing on the target.

Since then I’ve always sorted my brass & make sure that I only use same case volume for when it matters.

The photo below was taken when I was developing a deer load for my 6.5x47 & yes I know the MV is positively pedestrian but it does the job thank you very much

View attachment 446700

Thanks for the reply, how does one go about gauging case volume then?
Would a pack of brand new Lapua cases would be pretty consistent in that respect, or would you still sort?

Great stats btw thanks for the pic

 

[Donkey Basher]

Thanks for the reply, how does one go about gauging case volume then?
Would a pack of brand new Lapua cases would be pretty consistent in that respect, or would you still sort?

Great stats btw thanks for the pic

A very basic method would be to take a box of new brass, Lapua would be a great start, then full length size all of them & trim to length. If they’ve been once forend, even better as it’ll guarantee that you're taking them all back to the same size whereas some new brass may actually be under dimension by comparison. When all sized & trimmed weigh them one at a time & it’s likely that you’ll find at least 2/3 (for Lapua) will be the same weight give or take a very small margin, some will be over that weight & some under.

A more accurate way of doing it is to take fire formed cases, full length size them, BUT WITHOUT DEPRIMING THEM, then trim to length. Now place each case on a scale one at a time, set the scale to zero with the case on it before then removing the case, then use a small syringe (available from local chemist) to carefully fill the case with water (that’s why you don’t want to deprime them) & put it back on the scale. This will then give the case volume in grains of water. Just ensure when you do this that you don’t under or over fill the case - get it flat across the case neck. Ballistics data like QuickLoad uses case volume in grains of water.

 

[Smellydog]

Throw the chrono, add more powder, seems a touch slow. Probably on the edge of a one hole group.

 

[CBJackson]

All great feedback, thanks for taking the time to reply folks.

 

[Jim Hutton]

Maybe a Chronograph "Quality" issue.

It’s a good point. A 1% variation in fps really isn’t very much and I doubt most chronos can record better than 99% accuracy.

 

[Liveonce]

An SD of 15 or 27 will not make a lot of difference out at the targets distance, but the journey from 27 to 15 could hurt your wallet

 

[Trigger260]

You'll burn that much barrel chasing those numbers your accuracy will start to go!

 

[Will the chippy]

Don’t let perfect be the enemy of the good. Throw the chrono away and buy a borescope that’ll give you something else to worry about.