Ah I see. I only go after the atlas to remove the head when they are being dismantled.
Thoroughly agree on dispatch that is exactly how I do it .
Officially the best knife for stalking that money can buy.
- Thread starter Shabz
- Start date
Thoroughly agree on dispatch that is exactly how I do it .
RescueMe0007
Well-Known Member
I've done that quite a few times, having watched a chap do it on Youtube. Unfortunately, I don't always get it right, very hard on the wrist of the hand doing the squeezing!Think I saw a comment on gutting Rabbits by a good squeeze.
Leec6.5
Well-Known Member
The easiest way to remove the head is to cut deer the chin and work back, 2 birds 1 stone
Those look great - where from and do they clean up easily?
I did a muntjac buck with two mora knives , sharpening as I went and then did a fallow pricket - the pricket was a revelation in how much easier to peel and then take apart, with only minimal sharpening.
Really? He could at least have shot it first? Mean…
Where can I find out the other ways of doing it? Never seen it done the same way twice - hence my confusion..,Why atlas joint?Massively overrated and much easier ways to go about it
That was an expensive mistake
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With
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Even cheaper than a Mora and a prettt decent blade profile as well. I can find where it was but I bought a few for £8 each a few years back.
I was looking at buying that this week for another cheap general stalking knife. Specifically the Morakniv basic 546 13626 stainless but in black and orange. However the scandi grind put me off. I have big hands but find a 80mm blade perfect to align with my finger tip. How do you find the blade?
I'm afraid I've yet to use it.
Yet another "it looks cool and might come in handy one day" purchase but in reality is set to languish at the back of an ammo safe!
K
Easiest way I’ve found to remove a head is to pull the chin back so that the deer is ‘looking up’ and exposing as much throat as possible then cut following the jaw bone.
The jaw has a bit of a corner on it at the back, start at the corner and cut towards the spine. You’ll get to the atlas joint but at the front rather than the back if that makes sense? It’s head will just fall off.
Mr Tree
Well-Known Member
Snap On tools, made in the Far East? Bling for apprentices to drool over. If you cant hit a spanner with a lump hammer, or a piece of tubing for extra purchase, then there is no point. I broke 2 S O breaker bars, then I bought a cheap Sealey.ten years later it still works.So the handle came loose not broken as I mentioned if it breaks you don't get a replacement knife
Snap-on repair tools if they are broken, I have a few waiting to get chopped over. Back in the day when we spent a good few quid with them even if you had abused it he would swap it...
I would say if you sent an high end expensive knife back with a lump out of the cutting face It would not be replaced
Scipio
Well-Known Member
A sensible approach, especially if you're home butchering/working in the larder
fair point made here as well, - Knives, as other tools, have their specific area, in which they work best.
i do normally bring a little sharpening stone with me, that can be used both dry and wet, but yep, i'd rather not have to use it, in the field, at low light if i can avoid it. An almost smooth little steel, would also be handy tbh.
Personally i use a mora companion in the field, but if i found the right other knife, even if it was a crafted and more expensive one, i would definitely consider that too. With knives it's also quite personal, about what sort of blade profile and length one prefers, how they fit in your hand and balance and so on.
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Scipio
Well-Known Member
how do you find that they clean? folding and swing blades knives have pockets of space in them, and i have always just stayed away from them, thinking that they'd be more of a hassle to keep proper clean. But perhaps i am mistaken.
I don't care what you think, a huge % of stalking kit is made in the far east and people buy it along with most small goods in our houses
90% of my kit was brought from 1980> 2010 just looked a blue point and snap on multi Allen keys say "Made in the USA"
Question for you would you expect a £100 stalking knife you snap giving it a bit of stick to be replaced no quibble foc "V" a £100.00
Snap on ratchet ?
Mr Tree
Well-Known Member
Tim, not having a go at you, your an engineer, you are entitled to buy any tools you like, if you like em, then all well & good. Americans made good tools back in the day, I got some old snap on stilsons here that have had 5ft scaffold tube pushed over the handle, still good,
cheers. If I were to break a hundred pound knife, it would go in the bin, why would I want another.
The question was if it broke as things break! I fix stuff all the time that has broken the last item was a stem from a chandelier when it was being moved in a building refurb the item before that was a hardox cultivator leg so from 1.5mm to 25mm broke with neither having a warrantee lol
Yes, you are quite right...
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