Freeforester
Well-Known Member
The light is the add-on.
Another night vision question
- Thread starter Beagle boy
- Start date
Have you thought of an add on such as the Ludicrous Lumens Vulpine for your day scope.
VULPINE MK3 ULTRA SHORT HIGH PERFORMANCE NEAR EYE ADD ON 70mm-78mm.
You will need an IR laser illuminator to go with this. He sell these too. And he is good to deal with
Use mine with confidence out to 200 yds. But I can easily identify hares out to 400 yds. My shooting ability does not stretch that far though.
There is no 'faf' setting it up. You just turn it on and fire up the IR.
The vulpine doesn't mess with eye relief either.
As for recording footage. Use the thing between your ears.
Use a thermal for spotting and the Vulpine for shooting
Used a pard007 too. That was OK out to 200yds with a powerful enough IR but it does move the eye relief back a bit.
VULPINE MK3 ULTRA SHORT HIGH PERFORMANCE NEAR EYE ADD ON 70mm-78mm.
You will need an IR laser illuminator to go with this. He sell these too. And he is good to deal with
Use mine with confidence out to 200 yds. But I can easily identify hares out to 400 yds. My shooting ability does not stretch that far though.
There is no 'faf' setting it up. You just turn it on and fire up the IR.
The vulpine doesn't mess with eye relief either.
As for recording footage. Use the thing between your ears.
Use a thermal for spotting and the Vulpine for shooting
Used a pard007 too. That was OK out to 200yds with a powerful enough IR but it does move the eye relief back a bit.
Using my thermal for location; sufficient around for finding if you’re looking in the right general direction; models available with focusable beam: ‘Vastlite Versa Bow’
(@Shaun Goss, I don’t own one, happy with what I have) let’s you choose/vary your setting; not had any adverse reaction, it may be a lumens/candela ‘thing’ - either way, the light seen from this end can EASILY stand a filter, such is the intensity delivered to way out there, even on half power setting. With anything, the job will get done, I’m sure. A .22-250 and a .17 generally tend to need little by way of holdover to their general range of use.
Now, tell me about the Japanese edging stain!
Tokonole? You can get it in various size pots. It is similar to gum traganth but rather than plant sap, it is a compound of water based resin and wax with a very small amount of some kind of glue in it. I use the standard clear variety as I like seeing the natural colour of the edge material pop rather than discolouring it but you can get browns and blacks I think or possibly other dye based variants.
I find it better than water, gum traganth or other varieties I have tried. It is fast, consistent and so long as you use good veg tan and spend some time on sanding with increasing grit grades, you can get some unbelievably shiny and glass like edges. A tiny amount goes a long way. If I was edging materials that would be used externally in a harsh environment like outdoors, I would possibly still use near molten beeswax which would likely seal the edges better against water ingress but for most edge application, tokonole is the business.
Sorry to the OP for thread hijack.
Freeforester
Well-Known Member
Ditto.
Beagle boy
Well-Known Member
No problem at all lads, I’m quite interested to be honest
Beagle boy
Well-Known Member
The vulpine certainly does, far better than a pard 007 in my opinion.
With a compatible scope and a good lazer ir, on a clear night you can see clearly out to 400yds plus. Way further than you need to shoot.
Is it? Is the picture not just a scope mounted lamp?
An add on uses ir light that cant be seen unless looking through the unit itself.
Freeforester
Well-Known Member
It is if you add it in to your scope; you
Might also find that it a lot of ir light sources can be seen, though less so by most humans, just saying.
Might also find that it a lot of ir light sources can be seen, though less so by most humans, just saying.
Just never heard of a scope mounted lamp being referred to as an add-on.
Freeforester
Well-Known Member
Best value add-on going.
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
“Effective” is down to your ability in different conditions.
With the V1 Zulus over a year or so I have clearly identified many foxes beyond 400; on four of those occasions I took shots at 315, 340 and 360 and killed the fox each time (all captured on camera). The miss was down to me not reading the wind correctly. All four were ranged with the on-board RF and holdover was determined by the on-board Ballistic Calculator - I simply held the quarry at the given Zulus-calibrated zero mark - the Zulus and the Triple Deuce did the rest. BUT I do a lot of range work and had tested the Zulus out to 600 at gongs so was confident in it’s accuracy and my ability with my homeloads.
200 is a doddle with the Zulus day or night - if you input the correct information. In one bit of kit you have:-
a good telescopic (electronic) sight with excellent light-giving qualities;
a Ballistic Calculator coupled with a Range Finder which theoretically determines holdover out to just beyond 1000 - I have used it at 600 to effect;
an excellent inbuilt IR giving you full night-time vision;
full video recording; and
an excellent battery life - never have I needed to change one on an outing.
All at a very competitive price - but if you are a traditional glass man and aesthetics are an issue you will sadly, find it brute ugly!
For clarity I have no connection with any sight manufacturers - the above is an honest account of what I have found to be the case with the Zulus V1 - four weeks ago I bought the V2 and put it on my foxing .222. The V1 is now on my .22lr - I have been out with this only twice and after a little bit of tinkering (dubious velocity figures) I was hitting paper rabbit heads at 30, 50, 72 and 89 with 40 gns CCI subsonics which do a very good impression of a rainbow - all zeros were calculated by the Zulus so how could I not be a happy boy?
PS
Have a look at the “Out last night” thread on this site - it is populated with lots of clips from various scopes.
I was as confused as my friend Homer.
Perhaps to avoid such confusion in future we could all refer to scope mounted lamps as scope mounted lamps.
Perhaps we could refer to things that you add on to the front or rear of day scopes to give night vision as add ons.
Then we could discuss bullets vs heads.
Having said that Freeforester's scope mounted lamp does look excellent
Beagle boy
Well-Known Member
Looks fantastic
I think I know which way I might go.
Does the balistic drop calculator thing that popped up in red also cha ge on the zoomed in screen at the top?
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
Picture in picture?Looks fantastic
I think I know which way I might go.
Does the balistic drop calculator thing that popped up in red also cha ge on the zoomed in screen at the top?
Think so but I don't use PIP.
Beagle boy
Well-Known Member
Some great information thank you“Effective” is down to your ability in different conditions.
With the V1 Zulus over a year or so I have clearly identified many foxes beyond 400; on four of those occasions I took shots at 315, 340 and 360 and killed the fox each time (all captured on camera). The miss was down to me not reading the wind correctly. All four were ranged with the on-board RF and holdover was determined by the on-board Ballistic Calculator - I simply held the quarry at the given Zulus-calibrated zero mark - the Zulus and the Triple Deuce did the rest. BUT I do a lot of range work and had tested the Zulus out to 600 at gongs so was confident in it’s accuracy and my ability with my homeloads.
200 is a doddle with the Zulus day or night - if you input the correct information. In one bit of kit you have:-
a good telescopic (electronic) sight with excellent light-giving qualities;
a Ballistic Calculator coupled with a Range Finder which theoretically determines holdover out to just beyond 1000 - I have used it at 600 to effect;
an excellent inbuilt IR giving you full night-time vision;
full video recording; and
an excellent battery life - never have I needed to change one on an outing.
All at a very competitive price - but if you are a traditional glass man and aesthetics are an issue you will sadly, find it brute ugly!
For clarity I have no connection with any sight manufacturers - the above is an honest account of what I have found to be the case with the Zulus V1 - four weeks ago I bought the V2 and put it on my foxing .222. The V1 is now on my .22lr - I have been out with this only twice and after a little bit of tinkering (dubious velocity figures) I was hitting paper rabbit heads at 30, 50, 72 and 89 with 40 gns CCI subsonics which do a very good impression of a rainbow - all zeros were calculated by the Zulus so how could I not be a happy boy?
PS
Have a look at the “Out last night” thread on this site - it is populated with lots of clips from various scopes.
My limit is about 20 yards with no wind
with my 22-250 I’d be happy with a lamp to go to 250-300ish if there’s little wind, and up to 200ish with the 17 providing there’s no wind.I prefer the look of the hikmirco but I can’t say I’m bothered by the look of it, with the lrf built in and the ballistic calculatior it looks very impressive
What would I need mount wise? As the both rifles have dove tail mounts, would I need a rail for each rifle?
Beagle boy
Well-Known Member
The PiP is double what the main screen is - words fail so see sketch.
Other electronic sights are available….
Does the pip screen include the ballistic calculation, in the video from smelly dog you can see the hold over on the main screen. But not in the pip. I’m guessing it adjusts this and you don’t see the physical hold over in pip?
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
What you see in the PiP is the correct zero - mimicking the main picture Rf/BC-calculated adjusted point of aim - use either to aim and shoot.
You will need either a Picatinny for your particular rifle or an adapter Picatinny to fit your mounts - I would go for the former - just ordered one for my 6.5x55SE….
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