First attempt at a little gunsmithing

PostmanPat

Well-Known Member
I have just bought a lovely classic rifle after @rabbit fingers pointed me in it's direction. I have a plan soon to work on a rifle I bought as the base for a custom build to form my son's 17th birthday present. In which I plan to do the stocking, with some guidance, and do a number of other classic touches - barrel band, iron sight fitting and regulation etc. As a pre-curser to that work I am going to make a couple of personalisation tweaks to this.

Below is the rifle. First thing I did is fit the custom sling I had made by Outside & Leather. Which I think compliments it nicely:

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Over the following few days I added a couple of coats of my stock finishing oil. I did think about sanding it back and doing a London Best finish - but I think the little age related dings etc are too nice a part of it's history. Speaking of history I tried to track down some history from Dumoulin but I haven't heard back. Based on the proof marks AI thinks it was 60s to 70s. I then tried to get a Silver's pad - as the LOP is nearly 15 inches and way too long for me - I intend to cut it down and fit a pad, however, I have learnt they have gone out of business so currently trying to source something similar.

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It is .270 - my first time using the chambering and not to bad on recoil or muzzle blast without a mod IMO
Great calibre and lovely rifle - what is the action? Is it Spanish Mauser? And what brand the rifle?

Edit - Just seen it is dumoulin. What a cracker!
 
Keeper friend of mine,now sadly deceased,had a similar rifle in 243Win.
Superb looking and highly accurate.
Excellent choice, lucky man.
 
I swapped the scope to a Swarovski Habicht 2.5–10x42 and went to zero it. It didn’t do particularly well with the only ammo the RFD I bought it from had in stock (Norma Whitetail 130). The best groups were around 1.5 MOA, with a few flyers worse than that.


I took the stock off to check the bedding. The wood-to-metal fit was very tight throughout, with a bit of old bedding compound at the start of the barrel channel, it was pretty difficult to get the action out at all — definitely not a free-floated barrel. You can see where the paper catches.

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A few days later I went to another shop and had them borescope it. We spent a good while looking it over. Glad to report that, like the rest of the rifle, the rifling was in great condition throughout. It did, however, have quite a lot of copper and carbon fouling. I’d previously given it a light clean with Ballistol, but after seeing this I went home and gave it a proper clean with Bore Tech. I also picked up some PPU and some Hornady Precision Hunter ELD-X.


The action didn’t really like the Norma or the PPU — the bolt was quite stiff to close and open. I checked that the bullets weren’t catching the rifling (no marks on them), so that didn’t seem to be the issue. I also discovered the internal magazine will hold five rounds, but it won’t feed properly if you actually load five.


I headed back out to test the new ammo after the clean. The PPU produced a 2-inch group, albeit with fresh fouling shots after the deep clean. I then switched straight to the Hornady, which was the first ammo to feed, chamber, and extract smoothly.


That gave me a 1.5-inch group (shots 3–6 after the clean) and then a sub-1-inch group, with only one click between them from the previous Norma zero. Happy enough with that to consider it ethical for normal stalking distances — so I headed out and christened her.

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Now comes the first real little bit of smithing. The front sight ramp came sans bead. With the wonderful help of Erwin at Alan Rhone and some questionable maths/measuring skills on my part we came to front sight bead choice that should hopefully put me on at roughly 50m. Now I get to try and do the final fitting of it:

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Looks good. Id advise you to check your sight picture is good by mounting the rifle with your eyes closed and then opening to see if you naturally line up. I often find rifles that started with open sights make me look below the scope (because the scope is higher than the open sights). A cheek riser helps.
 
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Looks good. Id advise you to check your sight picture is good by mounting the rifle with your eyes closed and then opening to see if you naturally line up. I often find rifles that started with open sights make me look below the scope (because the scope is higher than the open sights). A cheek riser helps.
The stock on this was absolutely made for the iron sights - so that is where you get a nice cheek weld. When I first saw the rifle I intended to change the mounts to something much lower profile, but I have changed my mind as they are just such nice quality - and I am not going to spend the kind of money that a new set of them cost. I won't be putting a cheek riser on purely because the wood is too pretty!

Ultimately I don't think the lack of positive cheek weld will really affect the accuracy requirements for single shots of sticks at under 200m enough for me to need it. I don't plan to do any sniping, the vast majority of my shots are in the 50-150 range.
 
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