Thermal front add ons

does anyone understand how the swarovski front add ons don’t require zeroing?
I would say, that Swarovski is just so much confident in its quality control.

For me, installing new aiming device of any kind requires zero check, without further debate.
It is irresponsible from Swaro if they actually advertise its tM35 as no ned to zero front add on.
 
I would say, that Swarovski is just so much confident in its quality control.

For me, installing new aiming device of any kind requires zero check, without further debate.
It is irresponsible from Swaro if they actually advertise its tM35 as no ned to zero front add on.
i just don’t understand how it doesn’t need adjusting. it’s mounted in exactly the same fashion as the zeiss forward mount thermal and that one needs adjusting
 
I leave the scope portion of the clip-on adapter (Rusan) permanently mounted to the scope - I have these fitted to 3 scopes. As I carry muzzle down, removing the Swaro lens cap hasn’t produced any issues. I find the Rusan adapters return-to- zero perfect 👌

Is an adjustable parallax scope an advantage please or do they function well with ones that are fixed at 100yds?
 
Is an adjustable parallax scope an advantage please or do they function well with ones that are fixed at 100yds?
No experience with fixed focus scopes as I've only used mine on Swaro Z61 and a dS. I do try adjusting the parallax to see if it improves the picture but it makes little difference since the scope is seeing the thermal output at the same distance. If only Bruce was still with us I'm sure he'd provide good advice.
 
hi you use the crosshair from your glass scope which should be pretty much zeroed then you pop on the clip-on a shoot at the target
Say your 5” to the right and 2” down you then move the x/y movements on the clip-on tho zero it to your day scope
You then can add a ret to the clip-on for recording purposes only and need to centre that too
Ps the clip-on does make you look good as it records it at x2/3 but you could have taken the shot on x12 on your day scope
I have a couple of videos on YouTube one I tried to show how to zero it which was ok
But it did show that it very much so returns to zero when removed from the scope and then put back on

650 hunt pro
hi you use the crosshair from your glass scope which should be pretty much zeroed then you pop on the clip-on a shoot at the target
Say your 5” to the right and 2” down you then move the x/y movements on the clip-on tho zero it to your day scope
You then can add a ret to the clip-on for recording purposes only and need to centre that too
Ps the clip-on does make you look good as it records it at x2/3 but you could have taken the shot on x12 on your day scope
I have a couple of videos on YouTube one I tried to show how to zero it which was ok
But it did show that it very much so returns to zero when removed from the scope and then put back on

650 hunt pro
Do you freeze the image to adjust it to the scope cross hair,mine is a Thunder 3 but I guess they are the same.
 
No experience with fixed focus scopes as I've only used mine on Swaro Z61 and a dS. I do try adjusting the parallax to see if it improves the picture but it makes little difference since the scope is seeing the thermal output at the same distance. If only Bruce was still with us I'm sure he'd provide good advice.
Bruce hated thermal front clip on devices, from what I can remember.
 
Ive had the zeiss dtc add on for a few years now never had an issue with the zero ive never even had to set it and its quite a lump of a unit, i never remove the adapter however once its on it stays on its a couple of years old now so i imagine the lighter new units must be very good
 
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