Thermal front add ons

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Hmmm.
This piqued my interest as I thought that an front add-on would be as simple in use as a rear one such as the Pard 007. However it seems that there is an element of additional adjustment on some models at least so I Googled it - “Zeroing Errors” may suggest otherwise but real world experiences would be interesting to hear…
Factors That Can Cause Point of Impact (POI) Shift
While the goal is a consistent zero, some factors can introduce minor shifts:
  • Improper Mounting: A loose or inconsistent mount is the primary cause of POI shifts. Ensure the adapter is the correct size for your scope's objective bell and is secured firmly without overtightening.
  • Inconsistent Attachment/Detachment: While some premium systems are designed for quick, repeatable attachment, variations in how the unit is mounted can affect alignment.
  • Zeroing Errors: The initial alignment (sometimes called "micro-zeroing") of the clip-on is crucial. This process aligns the clip-on's display with the daytime optic's reticle.
  • Barrel/System Heat: Thermal drift caused by a hot barrel can slightly affect the point of impact of the rifle system itself, regardless of the optic used.
In summary, a well-made thermal clip-on, used with a quality mount and properly aligned, should not require you to re-zero your daytime scope, offering versatility for both day and night use.
🦊🦊
 
Foxyboy43 said:
Hmmm.
This piqued my interest as I thought that an front add-on would be as simple in use as a rear one such as the Pard 007. However it seems that there is an element of additional adjustment on some models at least so I Googled it - “Zeroing Errors” may suggest otherwise but real world experiences would be interesting to hear…
Factors That Can Cause Point of Impact (POI) Shift
While the goal is a consistent zero, some factors can introduce minor shifts:
  • Improper Mounting: A loose or inconsistent mount is the primary cause of POI shifts. Ensure the adapter is the correct size for your scope's objective bell and is secured firmly without overtightening.
  • Inconsistent Attachment/Detachment: While some premium systems are designed for quick, repeatable attachment, variations in how the unit is mounted can affect alignment.
  • Zeroing Errors: The initial alignment (sometimes called "micro-zeroing") of the clip-on is crucial. This process aligns the clip-on's display with the daytime optic's reticle.
  • Barrel/System Heat: Thermal drift caused by a hot barrel can slightly affect the point of impact of the rifle system itself, regardless of the optic used.
In summary, a well-made thermal clip-on, used with a quality mount and properly aligned, should not require you to re-zero your daytime scope, offering versatility for both day and night use.
🦊🦊
Click to expand...
I would personally prefer it if the Smart Clip could only be positioned in one place on the scope bell - every time. In practice it can be positioned anywhere around the circumference of the objective bell. I've marked my scope and Smart Clip with permanent marker but once I am 100% certain of accuracy/position I will put a blob of tamper-evident paint on each.
 
Keith Edmunds said:
I would personally prefer it if the Smart Clip could only be positioned in one place on the scope bell - every time. In practice it can be positioned anywhere around the circumference of the objective bell. I've marked my scope and Smart Clip with permanent marker but once I am 100% certain of accuracy/position I will put a blob of tamper-evident paint on each.
Click to expand...
I leave the scope portion of the clip-on adapter (Rusan) permanently mounted to the scope - I have these fitted to 3 scopes. As I carry muzzle down, removing the Swaro lens cap hasn’t produced any issues. I find the Rusan adapters return-to- zero perfect 👌

wytonpjs

Thread 'Hik Micro Thunder 3.0 Rusan Adapter Instructions'

Having lost a Rusan adapter 2 nights ago from my 50mm Swaro scope (I carry muzzle down) and I thought it was tight, I could not locate any instructions from Rusan on how to tighten their adapter. I quick email yielded the following:

Rusan Adapter Instructions.webp

I don't want to loose another and equally, I don't want to damage the scope, hence the need to understand what the OEM recommends.

Unsightly as it will be, I think I may add a layer of rubber self-amalgamating electrician's tape to the rear to add further security. Does any other user have any good tips to prevent loss please?
  • Like
 
I use an Infriray Mate MAH50 with one of these adapters on each of my rifles and it stays on the scope permanently so when I clip on to the scope it is always in the exact same spot relative to the scope and holds zero without any issues .Add on itself was a bit of a pig to get zeroed but once set up it works flawlessly regardless of how many times I take it on and off, only complaint would be you obviously cannot run scope caps on the front so have to use a neoprene sleeve.

Note, you will need the male part of the Rusan adapter too. I can get you a picture of the set up later this evening.

I went down the front clip on route just to be 'cheap' and not need a monocular as well as a thermal scope.

1768295099766.webp
 
soapywatson said:
I use an Infriray Mate MAH50 with one of these adapters on each of my rifles and it stays on the scope permanently so when I clip on to the scope it is always in the exact same spot relative to the scope and holds zero without any issues .Add on itself was a bit of a pig to get zeroed but once set up it works flawlessly regardless of how many times I take it on and off, only complaint would be you obviously cannot run scope caps on the front so have to use a neoprene sleeve.

Note, you will need the male part of the Rusan adapter too. I can get you a picture of the set up later this evening.

I went down the front clip on route just to be 'cheap' and not need a monocular as well as a thermal scope.

View attachment 455398
Click to expand...
Using the pulsar linked above as a handheld as well is making me think it could be a good option. Also been thinking about the pard 007 but would still like to have a thermal at some point.
 
wytonpjs said:
I leave the scope portion of the clip-on adapter (Rusan) permanently mounted to the scope - I have these fitted to 3 scopes. As I carry muzzle down, removing the Swaro lens cap hasn’t produced any issues. I find the Rusan adapters return-to- zero perfect 👌

wytonpjs

Thread 'Hik Micro Thunder 3.0 Rusan Adapter Instructions'

Having lost a Rusan adapter 2 nights ago from my 50mm Swaro scope (I carry muzzle down) and I thought it was tight, I could not locate any instructions from Rusan on how to tighten their adapter. I quick email yielded the following:

Rusan Adapter Instructions.webp

I don't want to loose another and equally, I don't want to damage the scope, hence the need to understand what the OEM recommends.

Unsightly as it will be, I think I may add a layer of rubber self-amalgamating electrician's tape to the rear to add further security. Does any other user have any good tips to prevent loss please?
  • Like
Click to expand...
Do you have different zero profiles saved on the clip on for the 3 scopes?
 
Keith Edmunds said:
I would personally prefer it if the Smart Clip could only be positioned in one place on the scope bell - every time. In practice it can be positioned anywhere around the circumference of the objective bell. I've marked my scope and Smart Clip with permanent marker but once I am 100% certain of accuracy/position I will put a blob of tamper-evident paint on each.
Click to expand...
I used a similar method to Keith lined up the clip on the retention clip and mount to middle of the object end of the scope which seem to work too
The video I did showed if you if you don’t replace the clip-on in the same place the poi moves even though it retains zero
 
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