To shorten or not to shorten... 243 barrel

It's hard to get a decent photo, rifling is noticeably thinner the last 1-2", also if I was to guess I'd say the pitting is the last 2-3"
 

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Does it shoot straight?
If so, why change anything?

A borescope will almost certainly tell you that you need to spend a lot of money, but your zeroing targets may well tell you otherwise!
I had a Tikka M55 SS that a dealer with a bore scope told me was in need on rebarrelling.
That gun shot 5p groups 1/2 moa at 100 yards.- I kept it for several years before selling it and the accuracy is still the same .
 
Rotten barrels can shoot just fine
trust me, I have several!

Chopping isnt going to save it if the pitting i well down the barrel
Stop cleaning it as you will spend more time trying to foul up a rough barrel and getting it back to shooting when you have "deep cleaned" it!

have you considered a used 243 barrel fitted to your existing action?
we have lots
Cheap option for working guns
 
It's hard to get a decent photo, rifling is noticeably thinner the last 1-2", also if I was to guess I'd say the pitting is the last 2-3"
Sorry just seen this. That crown looks OK from the photo but I think I can see some rough spots near the top and bottom. Can you feel anything unusual when running a fingernail around it? You could try DIY lapping with a ball bearing and some lapping paste. Personally Id do this, then deep clean, then re-foul the barrel with your current ammo, then try a few other types of ammo. All this costs is the price of ammo and all practice is helpful.
 
I think I'm gonna have a clear out and get a pre-owned barrel put on it for now.

I stripped it down last night and had a proper look down it and it's got very light pitting at both ends of the barrel and the od spot in the middle so I'm only prolonging the inevitable.
 
I think I'm gonna have a clear out and get a pre-owned barrel put on it for now.

I stripped it down last night and had a proper look down it and it's got very light pitting at both ends of the barrel and the od spot in the middle so I'm only prolonging the inevitable.
Hell, if you saw the state of my 6.5x55 barrel from 1986 you’d wonder if it could group to a size of a4 paper with the pitting! Like a drainpipe

It shoots 1/2moa with Sako powerhead blade

If it’s just light pitting, you don’t get 2” groups. Something else going on. Maybe have it checked out by someone who isn't automatically going to suggest a brand new barrel?

Are you shooting it off sandbags or a bipod?
 
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I think I'm gonna have a clear out and get a pre-owned barrel put on it for now.

I stripped it down last night and had a proper look down it and it's got very light pitting at both ends of the barrel and the od spot in the middle so I'm only prolonging the inevitable.

Light pitting should be fine, cracks or scars are bad news. Id polish that crown, try different ammo and try and find out the issue first.
- check all the scope screws and stock screws.
- take the barrel off the stock and check for pressure points or debris
- try without the moderator
- shoot off a sandbag rather than a bipod.
- different scope.
- get someone else to shoot it. Put your ego aside, can you shoot better with another rifle?
 
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Definitely try a few different types of ammo first, a mix of sofpoints, premium tipped ammo, and high quality copper ammo. My old Tikka M65 .270 has a rotten barrel and can shoot Sako Powerhead blades into a 1 inch group at 120 meters (although I can't seem to find any more of them for love nor money)
 
- Scope, it shoots the same with my Wraith and Docter 3-12x56 sat in TierOne rings, both have been on other cf and rimfires without issues.

- tried without moderator other than a big shift in poi, nothing obvious. No sign of clipping on the moderator either.

- I always zero on a bag on my bonnet then double check it with the bipod on after.

- No obvious issues with stock fitment when everything is tightened up there's no movement.

- I've let another person shoot it who is a far better shot than I would consider myself, same results.

- I've replaced the factory action bolts with aftermarket allen bolt ones.

- all grub screws are tight on the Brittania rail which a gunsmith put on it when I bought the rail off him.

I've not got round to glass bedding it yet as I can't find a pillar kit specifically for a 75, and after changing jobs I no longer have the facilities to make my own.

I might go try more variations of ammo but so far I'm using the best I've found. I don't really want to go down the reloading route. Some people love doing it, I find it tedious and would only do it again if I get another .22hornet.

I think I'll get a different barrel put on it then I can at least rule that out.
 
Hello all again, well i got hold of a chrono and here's the results for the 243 some shockers here! the ft/lbs data came from strelok the chrony is a gamma master chrony which was set up approx 16 feet away from the muzzle-
65 gr vmax with 40gr varget 3037fps - 1332ft/lbs
90 gr speer sp 34gr rel15 2657fps - 1411ft/lbs
85 gr sierra bthp 35.3gr varget 2723fps - 1399ft/lbs
85 gr sierra bthp 34.7gr H4895 2855fps - 1541ft/lbs
58gr hornady v-max moly coated 3380fps - 1473ft/lbs
95gr winchester ballistic silvertip 2851fps - 1714ft/lbs
100gr prvi sp 2707fps - 1630ft/lbs
80gr remington sp 2868fps - 1463ft/lbs
100gr federal powershock sp 2602fps - 1506ft/lbs
85gr federal bthp vital shok 3047fps - 1752ft/lbs

these are the results i got today with the 243 17 1/2" barrel
I shortened my 243 sako 75 many moons ago wouldn’t recommend it I’ve since had it rebarreled with a 1in 7 twist at 23 inch.
 
A bit of pitting is fine, however a shortened .243 is a handy tool. I took mine down to 18” and I can just get 80gr copper to the legal minimum in England and Scotland. It’s a better balanced rifle and is very accurate.

Scratch the itch - Dave Wylde did mine and charges around £100 (Valkyrie) and within an easy drive from Lincolnshire.
 
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