Monkey Sticks !!
- Thread starter Monkey Spanker
- Start date
AN DU RU FOX
Well-Known Member
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not quads but you can join two sets together with bungie rope and glue,the top joint is an exhaust rubber bracket sawn in two to make it thinner the handles are skipping rope foam covered handles,, make two sets then join at the bases of all legs ,open them place gun on then bungie at that width so they open at the top same width every time you can use anything inner tube or bungies bolts ps you can get proper wood ones off tony limulas on here,
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Glendine
Well-Known Member
View attachment 44586View attachment 44587not quads but you can join two sets together with bungie rope and glue,the top joint is an exhaust rubber bracket sawn in two to make it thinner the handles are skipping rope foam covered handles,, make two sets then join at the bases of all legs ,open them place gun on then bungie at that width so they open at the top same width every time you can use anything inner tube or bungies bolts ps you can get proper wood ones off tony limulas on here,
Thanks All.
Regards,
Glendine
NOTSHARP
Well-Known Member
I'm resurrecting this thread, firstly to say "thank you" to MS for making the effort to post it.
Secondly to say, that I had to make a set yesterday.
I chose to try the Marntingale stop rings.
I had some adhesive shrink wrap, so used some of that.
A couple of old screw-on connectors were used to plug the tubes, where contact with my face was a posibilty.
A piece of an old dog lead, whipped on fore and aft.
The bottom ends were joined with a couple of old "indestructable" shoe laces, with added superglue.
I have not had a chance to try them in the field, but initial impressions are very good.
Thanks, again, MS.
Steve.
Secondly to say, that I had to make a set yesterday.
I chose to try the Marntingale stop rings.
I had some adhesive shrink wrap, so used some of that.
A couple of old screw-on connectors were used to plug the tubes, where contact with my face was a posibilty.
A piece of an old dog lead, whipped on fore and aft.
The bottom ends were joined with a couple of old "indestructable" shoe laces, with added superglue.
I have not had a chance to try them in the field, but initial impressions are very good.
Thanks, again, MS.
Steve.
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I made my own using small bolts with nylock nuts on the bottom with heavy duty rubber rings just above the bolts. These prevent the metal and sticks touching and also stop the two pairs of sticks falling apart more than a couple of feet or so. I used the same type of rubber rings to secure the tops of the sticks similar to yours NOTSHARP. When the sticks are closed in carry mode it is very easy to slide the rings up or down if shooting up or down or when kneeling or sitting. Once the sticks are deployed the rubber rings lock up tight and don't slip. It is very easy and fast to use the sticks like twin sticks if needed and range is short and easy to deploy the "quad" if there is more time or a steadier shot is required. They do take a bit of practice at first but are so stable that I rarely use my bipod now.
Uncle Norm
Well-Known Member
I made a set up last year, mainly for use on open farmland in Norfolk, where there is nothing to get my back against for steadiness if using a pair of sticks.
I certainly found them slow and difficult to deploy at first but persevered and glad that I did.
A few weeks ago I took a Roe Doe at 120 yards with a heart shot, using the monkey sticks as the only support and the aim was rock steady. I doubt that I would have taken that shot with just a pair of sticks owing to the lateral movement that occurs if I cannot get my back against a tree or similar.
So many people have told me that I would not be able to 'follow' a moving deer if I was using quad sticks. However that is not the case.
Providing the ground is reasonable clear, they are easy to move by just raising one side a fraction and pivoting on the other. Once again just kept trying at it until it was automatic.
Last Saturday, I was in a small wood after stalking open farmland and needed to deploy them quickly on a Muntjac, so I simply used them as a pair to good effect.
I suppose I would summarise by saying that my experience has been that all the arguments against them have not stood up to the practical application. So I am a convert.
Thanks again Monkey Spanker.
I certainly found them slow and difficult to deploy at first but persevered and glad that I did.
A few weeks ago I took a Roe Doe at 120 yards with a heart shot, using the monkey sticks as the only support and the aim was rock steady. I doubt that I would have taken that shot with just a pair of sticks owing to the lateral movement that occurs if I cannot get my back against a tree or similar.
So many people have told me that I would not be able to 'follow' a moving deer if I was using quad sticks. However that is not the case.
Providing the ground is reasonable clear, they are easy to move by just raising one side a fraction and pivoting on the other. Once again just kept trying at it until it was automatic.
Last Saturday, I was in a small wood after stalking open farmland and needed to deploy them quickly on a Muntjac, so I simply used them as a pair to good effect.
I suppose I would summarise by saying that my experience has been that all the arguments against them have not stood up to the practical application. So I am a convert.
Thanks again Monkey Spanker.
I think i may have just found a little project for my time off work! 
cheers
KS
cheers
KS
Just made them this evening and took them out rabbiting. Whilst I shot no rabbits I'm blown away by the stability. What a cracking bit of kit!
Thanks
ks
Thanks
ks
palmer_mike
Well-Known Member
Possibly the difference in hold between the two positions?
i used to not hold the fore end when shooting off a bipod but hold it when shooting off stick and this did lead to a slight difference in zero.
i now hold the fore end no matter what support I'm using and find little or no difference in poi (I also get a much better scope picture following the shot).
NOTSHARP
Well-Known Member
I finally got round to trying mine yesterday, albeit with the .22rf..
There was a strong wind, which didn't help any. I shot from about 60 yards.
Ten rounds of Winchester subsonic.
More than happy with the result. I did take a fair time between shots, waiting for a lull in the wind.
Steve.
There was a strong wind, which didn't help any. I shot from about 60 yards.
Ten rounds of Winchester subsonic.
More than happy with the result. I did take a fair time between shots, waiting for a lull in the wind.
Steve.
I found exactly the same now you come to mention it. I had put it down to the fact that I had done a trigger upgrade on the cz and given the stock a bit of a thwacking with a hide face hammer to ensure its safety. I just assumed the zero had shifted slightly due to that! however i wont ever be shooting that rifle off a bipod again. Might be worth me seeing what the difference is with my .243 though before I take a shot at deer!
cheers
KS
cheers
KS
I have discovered this also. My Sako 75 is zeroed to give 1" high at 100 yrds shooting from bipod but is bang on at 100 off the twin sticks. Nothing to worry about at normal woodland ranges but needs to be considered at open field ranges. I'm sure this is the result of the rifle being held slightly differently and that on the sticks the weight of the rifle is evenly distributed between the front and rear sticks.
AN DU RU FOX
Well-Known Member
poi will change using a bipod,less pressure on sticks,
Monkey Spanker
Well-Known Member
Pretty much every shooting position will give slightly different results, hence 'Marksmanship Principle' number 4:
4. The shot should be released & followed through without disturbance to the position.
The twin sticks do tend to grip the fore-end slightly and also give the stock solid support at the rear which will slightly prevent the rifle from rotating backwards due to muzzle flip. However, the fact that you are even aware that you are a mere one inch out at 100m is surely testament to their accuracy? I think they actually support the rear of the rifle better than you can with a standard unsupported prone position. By that I mean off a bipod but with nothing under the stock but your arms.
There are certainly a good few sets of these in use now!
MS
paul o'
Well-Known Member
+1 nice mty .
top sticks cheap but affective I make them but there bolted and have made same 2 foot high for sitting out with back against a tree very comfortable .
top sticks cheap but affective I make them but there bolted and have made same 2 foot high for sitting out with back against a tree very comfortable .
Right, Ive been meaning to post this for a while!
What follows is a step-by-step guide of how to make the most stable shooting sticks you will ever use for about £10 !!
Firstly, get down to a DIY type garden centre and purchase 4 of their 1.8m plastic coated garden canes (which are actually metal tubes). They cost about £2.50 each.
1. Select 2 of them which we will then shorten by 2-4" depending upon your height. You should see a small ridge at about 1cm from the flat top end of the stick which is where the blanking plug meets the metal tube. Cut gently around this with a stanley knife and remove the plug with a pair of pliers or grips.
2. Next, mark a line around the tube where you will then cut with a hacksaw. I remove 4" and I'm about 5' 10". If you are taller, you should remove 2" and see how they fit. You can actually get canes longer than 1.8m if you are VERY tall! Refit plug and glue it in or use tape as shown. You should now have 2 longer and 2 shorter ones:
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3. Next, we need to secure the poles together in pairs as shown below. You can do this with any stretchy type material which will last. I have used some fairly thin Bungy cord on these with a simple clove hitch and reef knot with a 'glob' of gorilla glue in the reef knot to stop it coming undone. I have also used car inner tube cut into strips, exhaust support rubber, large 'O' rings/Grommets and 'Martingale' rubber rings which you can get from horse tack shops. Any method will work, but dont do it too tight or you'll not be able to open them!
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4. Next you need to orientate the sticks to suit whether you are left or right handed. Shown below is for right handed - so that the shorter stick is where your face will be when in the aim. We did this to both so that they will always be this way whichever way around you have the sticks!
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5. You now need to secure the bottom ends of the sticks together by the same method. (Note - you are now joining the two pairs together and not tying the same stick together at both top and bottom!)
6. You are now ready to mount your rifle onto them and work out the best distance to have them set apart. Once you have discovered what suits you best, place a length of cord over the longer uprights so that your sticks will then open to this distance every time. The wider you can get them the better really as it will provide more stability. As a guide, I find that just inside the front and rear sling studs is about right.
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You now have a set of very practical sticks!
They can also be opened and used as a normal 'twin stick' bipod for close or hurried shots. They are light to carry and also serve as a single stick when bunched together for steadying binos. For kneeling or sitting shots, simply open the bottom ends wider and you have height adjustment!
You may find them slightly awkward to begin with, but a bit of practice with a rimfire after bunnies or similar and you will never want to use anything else!
Because both the back and front of the stock are supported, you will find that you can shoot as good from these as you can from the prone position! They can only really move fore-and-aft so you should keep your feet in more of a fore-and-aft position to aid stability also. Better still if you can get you back against a tree or similar. These are great for stalking in flat open countryside as a standing shot gives more look-down angle for safety than sitting or kneeling. However, you will find that they are so solid from the standing position that you will never need to kneel or sit again! I can easily group 1" off these at 100m!
Have fun!
MS
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