Best IR torch for the new Hikmicro Alpex 4K

PSE Composites Limited - The next level Rifle Stocks
Cottis said:
DNT Zulus 4k. Absolute max distance 250yds but more likely to be 75-175yds most of the time. I tired the Solarix SRX on the DNT 4k but it is pretty poor in comparison to a Vulpine/March/Solaris combo.

I didn't get the Zulus 4k for night work as such but it would be nice to have the option if I can find a suitable IR torch which will produce a less grainy image.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Hmmm.
Dunno about the 4k but the Zulus V1 and 2 on-board IR are good for much further than your 250m max indeed I have clearly identified badgers and foxes at beyond 500 without any difficulty.
This is a screen grab from a Zulus video of mine so inevitably picture quality will suffer - what you see live is much clearer…
IMG_5447.webp
🦊🦊
 
Foxyboy43 said:
Hmmm.
Dunno about the 4k but the Zulus V1 and 2 on-board IR are good for much further than your 250m max indeed I have clearly identified badgers and foxes at beyond 500 without any difficulty.
This is a screen grab from a Zulus video of mine so inevitably picture quality will suffer - what you see live is much clearer…
View attachment 464364
🦊🦊
Click to expand...
I think I am probably being unreasonable with my expectations. The picture you provided does not look great to me. The foreground which is much closer is very grainy with poor definition. I can ID and see with the Zulus 4k at distances needed to shoot but it is just not what I am used to.

I think it is a product of the sensor being overly sensitive to light which makes it so good at last light but that then creates limitations when using IR at night.

Ben is sending me an LED torch to try which we think will likely produce a much cleaner image as the sensor will not be overloaded with the powerful laser IR. The compromise though will likely be decreased distance.

I didn't buy it for out and out night use so it is no issue and I would definitely rather have good day performance and outstanding last light performance which it does remarkably well for the money.

Out of interest, I see you use the holdover mark on the reticle for ballistic adjustments. I was doing the same but at the weekend I had a brain fart and took a shot having adjusted for holdover but when I took the shot, on autopilot I just aimed as usual with the crosshairs rather than the holdover mark and subsequently clean missed the target (fortunately) I didn't realise you could select "dial in" in the menu which basically just adjusts the crosshairs so you can aim dead on like you can with a dayscope when you adjust the turrets manually. I really should read the instruction manuals with these things ha ha. It is much better now not having to use that little natty red dot thing.
 
Cottis said:
I think I am probably being unreasonable with my expectations. The picture you provided does not look great to me. The foreground which is much closer is very grainy with poor definition. I can ID and see with the Zulus 4k at distances needed to shoot but it is just not what I am used to.

I think it is a product of the sensor being overly sensitive to light which makes it so good at last light but that then creates limitations when using IR at night.

Ben is sending me an LED torch to try which we think will likely produce a much cleaner image as the sensor will not be overloaded with the powerful laser IR. The compromise though will likely be decreased distance.

I didn't buy it for out and out night use so it is no issue and I would definitely rather have good day performance and outstanding last light performance which it does remarkably well for the money.

Out of interest, I see you use the holdover mark on the reticle for ballistic adjustments. I was doing the same but at the weekend I had a brain fart and took a shot having adjusted for holdover but when I took the shot, on autopilot I just aimed as usual with the crosshairs rather than the holdover mark and subsequently clean missed the target (fortunately) I didn't realise you could select "dial in" in the menu which basically just adjusts the crosshairs so you can aim dead on like you can with a dayscope when you adjust the turrets manually. I really should read the instruction manuals with these things ha ha. It is much better now not having to use that little natty red dot thing.
Click to expand...
As I said the real-time picture is much clearer - the video is less than what you actually see and this was a screen grab from it so defo not super clear!
I haven’t had the courage to try other than the holdover method - I am sure that if it can be cocked up I will do so - must try it at the range though…
🦊🦊
 
Cottis said:
I think I am probably being unreasonable with my expectations. The picture you provided does not look great to me. The foreground which is much closer is very grainy with poor definition. I can ID and see with the Zulus 4k at distances needed to shoot but it is just not what I am used to.

I think it is a product of the sensor being overly sensitive to light which makes it so good at last light but that then creates limitations when using IR at night.

Ben is sending me an LED torch to try which we think will likely produce a much cleaner image as the sensor will not be overloaded with the powerful laser IR. The compromise though will likely be decreased distance.

I didn't buy it for out and out night use so it is no issue and I would definitely rather have good day performance and outstanding last light performance which it does remarkably well for the money.

Out of interest, I see you use the holdover mark on the reticle for ballistic adjustments. I was doing the same but at the weekend I had a brain fart and took a shot having adjusted for holdover but when I took the shot, on autopilot I just aimed as usual with the crosshairs rather than the holdover mark and subsequently clean missed the target (fortunately) I didn't realise you could select "dial in" in the menu which basically just adjusts the crosshairs so you can aim dead on like you can with a dayscope when you adjust the turrets manually. I really should read the instruction manuals with these things ha ha. It is much better now not having to use that little natty red dot thing.
Click to expand...
Ah, but when using the Dial In setting it’s easy to miss seeing that it’s actually been selected so when you take your shot you have to be confidant your on target.
Using Hold over there’s no doubt.
Kb.
 
Right well after reading all this I’m none the wiser
I’m using a sniper hog lr66 ir on an adjustable mount and it’s ****ing me right off.
Mount is desperately hard to centre the beam , the beam doesn’t flood very good and when tight , half the image is useless at lower mag settings on the alpex

My bloody eyes are bad enough so I need all the help I can get
So what I’ve learned
Blade is awesome
Led is better
Laser goes further
I don’t need further so get a blade

Ffs my heed is spinning .

What’s the definitive answer to foxes at a couple of hundred meters ?
 
kenbro said:
Ah, but when using the Dial In setting it’s easy to miss seeing that it’s actually been selected so when you take your shot you have to be confidant your on target.
Using Hold over there’s no doubt.
Kb.
Click to expand...
The little LRF box thing should be in vision if the dial in method is in use with the elevation adjustments also visible, whereas when the LRF (and therefore ballistic function) is not in use, the view is free of that info.

I definitely think neither are ideal and I much prefer mechanical scopes where I have never made this error before in many years of adjusting POA. It is just one of those things that i guess I need to get used to. For me, I prefer the old fashioned aim where the crosshair is which does away with autopilot error when aiming under duress.
 
Rake Aboot said:
Right well after reading all this I’m none the wiser
I’m using a sniper hog lr66 ir on an adjustable mount and it’s ****ing me right off.
Mount is desperately hard to centre the beam , the beam doesn’t flood very good and when tight , half the image is useless at lower mag settings on the alpex

My bloody eyes are bad enough so I need all the help I can get
So what I’ve learned
Blade is awesome
Led is better
Laser goes further
I don’t need further so get a blade

Ffs my heed is spinning .

What’s the definitive answer to foxes at a couple of hundred meters ?
Click to expand...
Dunno, still trying to find out ha ha ha.

The Ludicrous Lumens 3d printed mount is very good. Lower section goes on the tube and the upper section slides in and out as you need it. It is very solid and the adjustment thingy on it to centre the torch is very very reliable and solid. It does not move in your pocket, so when you go to whack it on, it repeats every time.

What torch though? f knows. Ben is sending me an 850 LED to try which I think will clean up the image a lot but might reduce range I am used to with a Solaris SRX. As usual there is unlikely to be a perfect answer. Annoyingly.
 
Yeh. just got offered a Wraith V3 and thought “ oh aye that’ll do”. Then read this again and it’s like “ Naw Dinnae use the Wraith”. Ffs 🤦
 
I just used the Blackwood outdoors led torch that came with my Alpex as a package. Super simple and shot foxes out to just over 300 yards perfectly clear. Think they are £40-50
 
Shaun Goss said:
I just used the Blackwood outdoors led torch that came with my Alpex as a package. Super simple and shot foxes out to just over 300 yards perfectly clear. Think they are £40-50
Click to expand...
I bought one off here and sold next day as crap , laser much better.
 
Rake Aboot said:
Right well after reading all this I’m none the wiser
I’m using a sniper hog lr66 ir on an adjustable mount and it’s ****ing me right off.
Mount is desperately hard to centre the beam , the beam doesn’t flood very good and when tight , half the image is useless at lower mag settings on the alpex

My bloody eyes are bad enough so I need all the help I can get
So what I’ve learned
Blade is awesome
Led is better
Laser goes further
I don’t need further so get a blade

Ffs my heed is spinning .

What’s the definitive answer to foxes at a couple of hundred meters ?
Click to expand...
I’ve had the Blade along with most of the others.
The Ludicrous Lumens Wraith ESL 100% is the kiddy for the Alpex.
 
Last edited:
Rake Aboot said:
Right well after reading all this I’m none the wiser
I’m using a sniper hog lr66 ir on an adjustable mount and it’s ****ing me right off.
Mount is desperately hard to centre the beam , the beam doesn’t flood very good and when tight , half the image is useless at lower mag settings on the alpex

My bloody eyes are bad enough so I need all the help I can get
So what I’ve learned
Blade is awesome
Led is better
Laser goes further
I don’t need further so get a blade

Ffs my heed is spinning .

What’s the definitive answer to foxes at a couple of hundred meters ?
Click to expand...
Just buy the BLADE.

The BLADE is a VCSEL Laser and outputs 95% of the absolute maximum power allowed to legally be sold to consumers. Power isn't an issue. You will get a good image to 500 yards and a good enough image to 1,000 to check your backdrop if needed.

The lens is designed to match the VCSEL Laser diode. It's not the usual hotch potch of a cheap chinese torch mated to a standard lens, so the beam is completely even with no hot or cold spots (flare or shadow). There is also zero spill from the beam so no errent reflections from the rifle or moderator, or indeed off axis indicators for your target.

Mount it at 45 degrees towards the back of your scope on a low QR ring, set it to fill the field of view and you won't need to mess about adjusting it's focus, even to 250m. You also won't even notice it's on the rifle. Just look through the scope and shoot things.


Cheers





Clive
 
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