PostmanPat
Well-Known Member
I also plan to try and do some up close stalking and make use if those irons, once I have confirmed they point in the right direction
First attempt at a little gunsmithing
- Thread starter PostmanPat
- Start date
You will find that a simple leather pad on the stock comb will make a massive difference when using the scope. It's easy enough to remove when you want to use irons (or when you want to gaze at the beauty of the woodwork).
I wouldn't dismiss the suggestion, if I were you. I was staggered at how much difference it made.
Fair enough, at least you are aware of the issue. Cheek risers dont have to cover the wood permanently - Bisley make rubber pads than can be held on with a bit of homemade elasticated velco. I shoot much better with one. A clout from an ill-fitting unmoderated 270 can give you a permanent lifetime flinch - guess how I know!
What a stunning peice of wood! Sadly, my Dumoulin was/is nothing like that!
Probably too late and a lot of work but a steel grip cap would really cool.
K
Probably too late and a lot of work but a steel grip cap would really cool.
K
PostmanPat
Well-Known Member
Love to see a picture of it here. I did see a nice .243 sold at Holts in Dec 24.
Not designed to be free floating.
From an era where would was chosen for grain not price
Any shooter tension in the system from pulling on sling or using bipods will give variable accuracy
Free vertical pressure from the weight of rifle into hand, bag/rucksak or sticks will give better results.
Action screw tension will, as a direct result, impact accuracy.
They usually have keeper screws for this very reason, to return the screw to the same orientation.
However over oiling, constant removal/reassembly or over torquing can compress the wood around the action inlet and result in poor return to zero
I just saw your post about the stock. I agree with Ed, there is nothing wrong with a supported barrel (or contact point at the front) and these can be very accurate. Older wood should be pretty stable by now. Regarding fouling in older rifles, generally I find the only way to get them truly clean is multiple soakings and hundreds of passes with a bronze brush, sometimes the full treatment can take a few weeks.
PostmanPat
Well-Known Member
Last night I did the scary bit of taking a hacksaw to her. Then a curved diamond file and finally polishing with 600, 800 and then 800 with oil. Came out pretty well IMO. Ordering some cold blue today.
As Edinburgh Rifles points out, the stock (forend) was not profiled with a few to free-floating the barrel. Mine was snug throughout the channel with zero movement when attempting to flex barrel and stock.
I see yours has some nylon-like reinforcement material around the recoil lug area but no steel trigger guard sleeving tube to prevent crushing?
Here is a picture of mine with a steel recoil lug. It now hangs on the wall as I've used the action for my 35 Whelen build. No way will a fatter barrel sit within the thinly profiled forend:
K
I see yours has some nylon-like reinforcement material around the recoil lug area but no steel trigger guard sleeving tube to prevent crushing?
Here is a picture of mine with a steel recoil lug. It now hangs on the wall as I've used the action for my 35 Whelen build. No way will a fatter barrel sit within the thinly profiled forend:
K
Yes I wouldn't worry too much about the classic stock not being high enough to give a cheek weld, once you get comfortable with a jaw weld (lightly resting the jaw on the butt) you may be pleasantly surprised how accurately you can shoot like that. I have several scoped older rifles I shoot this way (for example a Lee Enfield; see photo) and a jaw weld is even becoming a fashionable method with PRS shooters as it puts less strain and tension in the system than a full on cheek weld.
Attachments
welshwarrior
Well-Known Member
Beautiful rifle I’m sure I have a couple of silvers pads left if you still want one drop me a pm.
PostmanPat
Well-Known Member
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Do you have an orange ? Pm me if you do and size / style. I know postman Pat is after red
Last edited:
welshwarrior
Well-Known Member
I did but it’s now gone to someone else.Do you have an orange ? Pm me if you do and size / style. I know postman Pat is after red
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Saves the pile of orange dust in my face then!
PostmanPat
Well-Known Member
Cold blueing came out really nicely. I don't think I can tell the difference in colour at all. Touched up the end of the barrel too. Happy with that. Time to find out if it points in the right place!
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
Next time fit the blade, mark the length, tap it back out. Cut it off a few thou over length. File it to length measuring lots, blue up the blade and refit. If you do want to file in place tap it almost home, tape of the rest of the sight and then file up. Tap it home.
Old finishes are difficult to match up. Cold blue great at first bit give it a bit of time and it will show up. Secret of good gun smithing is not to mess with work that was done highly craftsmen 50 years ago who learnt their trade from masters the hard way.
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
What a beautiful rifle - it ticks so many boxes, it’s silly, way to go in getting it! Demoulin has a very good name, I haven’t seen a bad example. From what I can tell yours uses an FN action? You’ve done a very nice job on the front sight, clean. You could probably rust blue it if you find you don’t like the cold blue - apply solution to the area in question and either steam just it or could even boil/steam the whole barreled action - you won’t hurt it.
A standard 98 should always feed all 5 down smoothly, and 270 is one of the smoothest cases there is. I wonder if your mag spring is over specced, or if there’s something not quite right with the extractor clearance. If 5 is the only bad one I’d be saying mag spring is a likely culprit
I would be looking into these points a bit. So the bolt is easy on an empty chamber but tight on those two? It shouldn’t really be tight on any factory ammo, maybe start by checking there’s no build up of anything in the locking lug seats. Unless it’s known these manufacturers make max spec ammo, the chamber is surprisingly tight.
A standard 98 should always feed all 5 down smoothly, and 270 is one of the smoothest cases there is. I wonder if your mag spring is over specced, or if there’s something not quite right with the extractor clearance. If 5 is the only bad one I’d be saying mag spring is a likely culprit
Similar threads
