Is this salvageable?

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Tom102938

Tom102938

Well-Known Member
Hi all.

So I have fu**ed it massively. Drilling my stock for a spartan gunsmith adapter and I have gone straight through.

So I have made a kind of epoxy resin false floor for the adapter to set in and im going to add more around the actual adapter tomorrow once this has dried but do we think its salvageable?

Annoyingly my stocks seem hard to find/get for a Sauer 100. If its not salvaged then I think im going to have to out in for a variation and get a new rifle! Not what i want

Cheers
Tom
 

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Without seeing it close up, I might be tempted to have something mechanical holding it in the stock so it can't pop out, looking at the adapter, something like a large circlip, then I'd rough up that area of the stock drill (not all the way through) a few holes to increase hold and fill it with devcon
 
I used Devcon in my Blaser, Tikka and McMillan synthetic stocks…. They’ve never shifted even though in the Blaser and Tikka, I’ve ’gone right through’ I did Dremel some groves into the plastic to provide more grip though.

Cheers
Fizz
😎
Found a pic of the Blasers… changed my mind on the position when I did the one on the left to behind the sling stud…means I can still use a Harris if required. To create the dam to stop the Devcon flowing, I just superglued a small piece of pvc in place. Much the same with the Tikka.
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Greenmist said:
Without seeing it close up, I might be tempted to have something mechanical holding it in the stock so it can't pop out, looking at the adapter, something like a large circlip, then I'd rough up that area of the stock drill (not all the way through) a few holes to increase hold and fill it with devcon
Click to expand...
Is that the devcon plastic steel putty? To be fair that putty will probably be a better option than the epoxy resin.

I could fill it in where it is now and then once that has set i could place it on the other side and build it up into a smooth slope.
 
Yes, thats the stuff, although if I'm honest, chemical metal is easier to work with and gives equally good results, you'll likely get a tube of it at a car parts shop for <£10, its a bit like plasticine, cut off the amount you need, knead the inner and outer until you have a uniform colour then use, it heats up as part of the chemical process then sets in about five minutes
 
Greenmist said:
Yes, thats the stuff, although if I'm honest, chemical metal is easier to work with and gives equally good results, you'll likely get a tube of it at a car parts shop for <£10, its a bit like plasticine, cut off the amount you need, knead the inner and outer until you have a uniform colour then use, it heats up as part of the chemical process then sets in about five minutes
Click to expand...
Would that stick to plastic and metal?
 
Tom102938 said:
Would that stick to plastic and metal?
Click to expand...
I've used it on both without issue, I always drill small holes at angles in wood and plastic so the compound goes into it, then rough it up and finally degrease with brake cleaner or similar, tape off anything you don't want stuck, you do get a bit of work time once applied, using and old debit card or similar lets you work it into awkward areas and also smooth off to finish nicely
 
Greenmist said:
I've used it on both without issue, I always drill small holes at angles in wood and plastic so the compound goes into it, then rough it up and finally degrease with brake cleaner or similar, tape off anything you don't want stuck, you do get a bit of work time once applied, using and old debit card or similar lets you work it into awkward areas and also smooth off to finish nicely
Click to expand...
I will look at that.

Its really awkward where ilthe barrel sits above it. But if nits like anputty I will be able to force it in better than the epoxy resin.

I will do the idea with the small holes also and then built it up to the attachment on the other side.
 
Greenmist said:
I've used it on both without issue, I always drill small holes at angles in wood and plastic so the compound goes into it, then rough it up and finally degrease with brake cleaner or similar, tape off anything you don't want stuck, you do get a bit of work time once applied, using and old debit card or similar lets you work it into awkward areas and also smooth off to finish nicely
Click to expand...
Would you reccomend any brand of the chemical metal or the plastic steel putty
 
Keith Edmunds said:
I used to make lure rods - I used Epoxy to glue various types of 'plastic' reel seats to carbon rod blanks - never had an issue and they are subject to extreme stress.
Click to expand...
Maybe not all plastics are equal?
When using epoxy for wooden boat building I used to use blue plastic dpc membrane to mask areas that I didn't want stuck, because the epoxy wouldn't adhere to the plastic. I think that's normal practice when using epoxy resins.
Also, I once tried to patch a hole in a plastic dinghy using epoxy. The patch just fell off.
 
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