Munty doe from this morning. Note - time not changed to BST.
I would say, that Swarovski is just so much confident in its quality control.does anyone understand how the swarovski front add ons don’t require zeroing?
i just don’t understand how it doesn’t need adjusting. it’s mounted in exactly the same fashion as the zeiss forward mount thermal and that one needs adjustingI would say, that Swarovski is just so much confident in its quality control.
For me, installing new aiming device of any kind requires zero check, without further debate.
It is irresponsible from Swaro if they actually advertise its tM35 as no ned to zero front add on.
Is it a case of 'doesn't need' adjusting or 'can't be' adjusted?i just don’t understand how it doesn’t need adjusting. it’s mounted in exactly the same fashion as the zeiss forward mount thermal and that one needs adjusting
apparently the tx encounter has zeroing profile so it can be adjustedIs it a case of 'doesn't need' adjusting or 'can't be' adjusted?
Munty doe from this morning. Note - time not changed to BST.
Munty doe from this morning. Note - time not changed to BST.
Its advertused with a 69% duscount so price is right!This may be an error at that price - others are showing £1500 plus!
![]()
Pulsar Proton FXQ30 | Thomas Jacks Outlet
The Proton FXQ30 thermal imaging front attachment uses an extremely sensitive 384×288, 17µm <40 mK NETD thermal sensor and HD AMOLED display.tj-outlet.co.uk
![]()
Is it any goodI bought one for £500 around Christmas. Not had chance to try it out![]()
Adding my Hik Thunder 3 for those last light 30 minutes or so, and its proved devastating- no question about POI shift on adding it
Is it any good
Is an adjustable parallax scope an advantage please or do they function well with ones that are fixed at 100yds?I leave the scope portion of the clip-on adapter (Rusan) permanently mounted to the scope - I have these fitted to 3 scopes. As I carry muzzle down, removing the Swaro lens cap hasn’t produced any issues. I find the Rusan adapters return-to- zero perfect
Having lost a Rusan adapter 2 nights ago from my 50mm Swaro scope (I carry muzzle down) and I thought it was tight, I could not locate any instructions from Rusan on how to tighten their adapter. I quick email yielded the following:
I don't want to loose another and equally, I don't want to damage the scope, hence the need to understand what the OEM recommends.
Unsightly as it will be, I think I may add a layer of rubber self-amalgamating electrician's tape to the rear to add further security. Does any other user have any good tips to prevent loss please?
- wytonpjs
- Replies: 21
- Forum: Equipment & Accessories
No experience with fixed focus scopes as I've only used mine on Swaro Z61 and a dS. I do try adjusting the parallax to see if it improves the picture but it makes little difference since the scope is seeing the thermal output at the same distance. If only Bruce was still with us I'm sure he'd provide good advice.Is an adjustable parallax scope an advantage please or do they function well with ones that are fixed at 100yds?
Absolutely fine with fixed parallaxIs an adjustable parallax scope an advantage please or do they function well with ones that are fixed at 100yds?
hi you use the crosshair from your glass scope which should be pretty much zeroed then you pop on the clip-on a shoot at the target
Say your 5” to the right and 2” down you then move the x/y movements on the clip-on tho zero it to your day scope
You then can add a ret to the clip-on for recording purposes only and need to centre that too
Ps the clip-on does make you look good as it records it at x2/3 but you could have taken the shot on x12 on your day scope
I have a couple of videos on YouTube one I tried to show how to zero it which was ok
But it did show that it very much so returns to zero when removed from the scope and then put back on
650 hunt pro
Do you freeze the image to adjust it to the scope cross hair,mine is a Thunder 3 but I guess they are the same.hi you use the crosshair from your glass scope which should be pretty much zeroed then you pop on the clip-on a shoot at the target
Say your 5” to the right and 2” down you then move the x/y movements on the clip-on tho zero it to your day scope
You then can add a ret to the clip-on for recording purposes only and need to centre that too
Ps the clip-on does make you look good as it records it at x2/3 but you could have taken the shot on x12 on your day scope
I have a couple of videos on YouTube one I tried to show how to zero it which was ok
But it did show that it very much so returns to zero when removed from the scope and then put back on
650 hunt pro
Bruce hated thermal front clip on devices, from what I can remember.No experience with fixed focus scopes as I've only used mine on Swaro Z61 and a dS. I do try adjusting the parallax to see if it improves the picture but it makes little difference since the scope is seeing the thermal output at the same distance. If only Bruce was still with us I'm sure he'd provide good advice.
Yup - but he was kind enough to answer my DMs and that's part of the reason why I have a Hik Thunder 3Bruce hated thermal front clip on devices, from what I can remember.