20 gauge cartridge choice?

Mr Tree

Well-Known Member
I have been looking at a new o/u 20 gauge have only used a side by side 12 gauge wildfowl's gun but after borrowing an ou my conclusion was I shoot better with this.. Steel shot has never been high on my list of priorities. Most of my shooting is walked up & rough shooting, expected ranges up to 35ish yds, quarry will be mixed bag, including partridge, pigeon, duck, pheasants, rabbits, but definitely no hares, not expecting high fast pheasants. I dont do a lot of trap shooting.
Any members on here who could comment on shot size, loads & makes of cartridge & what works well for you would be extremely helpful. Thanks.
 
Aim in the right place and it makes no difference. 5’s or 6’s will do the job. I’ve had a mixed bag for years, just grab some and off we go. Don’t think it’s made a jot of difference.

For duck, you’ll need to consider steel if over wetlands of course.
 
Aim in the right place and it makes no difference. 5’s or 6’s will do the job. I’ve had a mixed bag for years, just grab some and off we go. Don’t think it’s made a jot of difference.

For duck, you’ll need to consider steel if over wetlands of course.
Ever done any good with 7's?
 
This is in my bag.
I only do 2 or 3 days a year on wild birds and I don’t bother what make carts i buy, just whatever is on the shelf in the nearest shop.
Alway 5/6 and sometimes the 7.5 **** size because there were no 7s at the time.
I find all those sizes do the job, especially if you do as tt suggests and aim in the right place.
Ken.
Doh, file too big, will take individual pics and try that.
Ken.
Ps. Note the box of steel.
I shoot near the coast so just in case.
 

Attachments

  • image.webp
    image.webp
    293.7 KB · Views: 27
  • image.webp
    image.webp
    374.2 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
I load for my employer throughout the season. He uses 21 or 24 grams of 7 1/2 in his 20 bores,a pair of Browning Centennials generally with skeet and quarter choke in both guns.
There's very little he can't bring down with this combination, from Norfolk partridge to Devon/Wales high pheasants.
Thinking rationally, he's got 300 ISH pellets in each cartridge,why wouldn't he bring birds down?
 
I load for my employer throughout the season. He uses 21 or 24 grams of 7 1/2 in his 20 bores,a pair of Browning Centennials generally with skeet and quarter choke in both guns.
There's very little he can't bring down with this combination, from Norfolk partridge to Devon/Wales high pheasants.
Thinking rationally, he's got 300 ISH pellets in each cartridge,why wouldn't he bring birds down?
Some sound advice here, covering a wide range of questions I was going to ask, regarding choke size especially, am completely new to this choke business, my 12 gauge is just load & shoot it. Many thanks.
 
Pattern fails before penetration and in a 70mm chambered 20 bore you've only got 28 grams (1 ounce) to play with. You say that you are likely to encounter "partridge, pigeon, duck, pheasants, rabbits" at "expected ranges up to 35ish yds" and that this may be walked up. And you are not expecting "high fast pheasants" so I assume any pheasants will also be inside your thirty-five yard distance.

A pigeon at thirty-five yards is a small target as is a partridge. Therefore although a #5 might kill if it hits a vital spot there may not be enough pellets in your charge of shot to give a pattern that...at that range...can be guaranteed to find that vital spot. But you don't say what choke you are using. Or if you can use plastic wads.

So my advice is the old traditional choke combination where the second barrel is slightly tighter than the first barrel of the old standby of 1/4 and 1/2 and 28 grams of #6 of good quality lead shot...copper plated if you can get it...if using fibre wads. If using plastic wads you could go IMPROVED and 1/4 as a plastic wad gives you the equivalent of an extra degree of choke.

A 28 gram load of #6 will give pattern, more than adequate penetration and power out indeed to forty yards, and should also be easy to find at most gunshops. If OTOH the choice is a "take it or leave it" of 28 gram of #5 or #7 and no availability of #6 I would go for #7 and slightly more open choking of IMPROVED and 1/4.

My late father shot his G E Lewis 20 bore 26" barrel "Light Magnum"* side by side in the 1960s when lead shot was not as good a quality as today and plated shot, or antimony hardened shot, was commonplace in the usual Eley 20 bore 13/16 ounce 2 1/2" length or Eley 20 bore Alphamax 1 ounce 2 3/4" length so used #5. I think that shot is so much better today...or one hopes that it is if you buy good quality cartridges...that #6 or #7 are now better advised.

* The Lewis "Light Magnum" guns were 262 barrel side by side 20 bore (or also 16 bore) guns that were chambered for 2 3/4" cartridges. Lewis (I met the son who was the "Son" or G E Lewis & Son) when he was then an old man.

The idea of the Light Magnum was a 20 bore gun that fired the equivalent of a standard 16 bore load of 1 ounce and a 16 bore gun that fired the equivalent of a standard 12 bore load of 1 1/8 ounce. The idea was you carried a gun of slightly heavier weight than a standard 20 bore or standard 16 bore but that could hit one level up from that weight.

Here's a link to one of the Lewis 16 bore Light Magnum guns sold at auction last week. They were handsome guns. Very handsome.

 
Pattern fails before penetration and in a 70mm chambered 20 bore you've only got 28 grams (1 ounce) to play with. You say that you are likely to encounter "partridge, pigeon, duck, pheasants, rabbits" at "expected ranges up to 35ish yds" and that this may be walked up. And you are not expecting "high fast pheasants" so I assume any pheasants will also be inside your thirty-five yard distance.

A pigeon at thirty-five yards is a small target as is a partridge. Therefore although a #5 might kill if it hits a vital spot there may not be enough pellets in your charge of shot to give a pattern that...at that range...can be guaranteed to find that vital spot. But you don't say what choke you are using. Or if you can use plastic wads.

So my advice is the old traditional choke combination where the second barrel is slightly tighter than the first barrel of the old standby of 1/4 and 1/2 and 28 grams of #6 of good quality lead shot...copper plated if you can get it...if using fibre wads. If using plastic wads you could go IMPROVED and 1/4 as a plastic wad gives you the equivalent of an extra degree of choke.

A 28 gram load of #6 will give pattern, more than adequate penetration and power out indeed to forty yards, and should also be easy to find at most gunshops. If OTOH the choice is a "take it or leave it" of 28 gram of #5 or #7 and no availability of #6 I would go for #7 and slightly more open choking of IMPROVED and 1/4.

My late father shot his G E Lewis 20 bore 26" barrel "Light Magnum"* side by side in the 1960s when lead shot was not as good a quality as today and plated shot, or antimony hardened shot, was commonplace in the usual Eley 20 bore 13/16 ounce 2 1/2" length or Eley 20 bore Alphamax 1 ounce 2 3/4" length so used #5. I think that shot is so much better today...or one hopes that it is if you buy good quality cartridges...that #6 or #7 are now better advised.

* The Lewis "Light Magnum" guns were 262 barrel side by side 20 bore (or also 16 bore) guns that were chambered for 2 3/4" cartridges. Lewis (I met the son who was the "Son" or G E Lewis & Son) when he was then an old man.

The idea of the Light Magnum was a 20 bore gun that fired the equivalent of a standard 16 bore load of 1 ounce and a 16 bore gun that fired the equivalent of a standard 12 bore load of 1 1/8 ounce. The idea was you carried a gun of slightly heavier weight than a standard 20 bore or standard 16 bore but that could hit one level up from that weight.

Here's a link to one of the Lewis 16 bore Light Magnum guns sold at auction last week. They were handsome guns. Very handsome.

Some good advice here thank you Enfield. The gun I was looking at is a Browning 20 gauge B525, fits me perfectly. It comes with cylinder 1/4 1/2 & full chokes. I believe Eley make a fibre wad copper plated cartridge, I like fibre wads, I hate plastic, especially when chucked around on my farm. Its a shame they do not make the case from card also, for the same reasons. They are however pretty damn expensive, but given the amount of shooting I do, coupled with the fact that all the shooting I do on my farm is free, only wild birds, it works out as the only cost I incur. Thanks once again for your insightful post. Cheers!
 
Glad the advice helped.

For solely on decoying pigeons you could use CYL and 1/2 and 28 gram of #7. The idea being that for incoming birds coming into land you use the CYL barrel and for birds that are flight lining and not coming in use the 1/2 choke. Or even if that is your wish use the 1/2 to shoot birds that have already landed and you didn't notice them! Be that on the ground or in any "sitty tree" you might be close to.

For sure for decoyed pigeons any maker's standard #7 lead is fine and no need for premium shot. The most difficult decoyed pigeon I always found was the one that comes in from behind pretty much unseen by you until it is dropping into the pattern. Your CYL choke and lead #7 will at least give you a better chance. Surprise arriving dropping birds coming from behind you (for me) are always hard and at close range hardest of all as your margin for error isn't great as you pattern isn't that wide.

The guys I shoot with on clay pigeons all rate the 525 as "the best modern Browning". On a walking up day try your cartridge you have brought along with your CYL and 1/4 and if the birds drop dead then stick with those. If you are hitting (and hitting well) but they aren't being killed then maybe swap to 1/4 and 1/2 and that should produce more kills and less birds hit but not killed. Save the FULL choke for a first barrel "one chance only" 28 grams of lead #4 and foxes when combining!
 
Last edited:
Glad the advice helped.

For solely on decoying pigeons you could use CYL and 1/2 and 28 gram of #7. The idea being that for incoming birds coming into land you use the CYL barrel and for birds that are flight lining and not coming in use the 1/2 choke. Or even if that is your wish use the 1/2 to shoot birds that have already landed and you didn't notice them! Be that on the ground or in any "sitty tree" you might be close to.

For sure for decoyed pigeons any maker's standard #7 lead is fine and no need for premium shot. The most difficult decoyed pigeon I always found was the one that comes in from behind pretty much unseen by you until it is dropping into the pattern. Your CYL choke and lead #7 will at least give you a better chance. Surprise arriving dropping birds coming from behind you (for me) are always hard and at close range hardest of all as your margin for error isn't great as you pattern isn't that wide.

The guys I shoot with on clay pigeons all rate the 525 as "the best modern Browning". On a walking up day try your cartridge you have brought along with your CYL and 1/4 and if the birds drop dead then stick with those. If you are hitting (and hitting well) but they aren't being killed then maybe swap to 1/4 and 1/2 and that should produce more kills and less birds hit but not killed. Save the FULL choke for a first barrel "one chance only" 28 grams of lead #4 and foxes when combining!
Weirdly enough I always find that birds that give me hardly anytime to get on them are the ones that I shoot best at. Snap shooting if you like. High birds give me too much time & I'm slower.
 
High birds give me too much time & I'm slower.
For me that is because if, on an incoming direct overhead bird such as a classic driven pheasant, if I am seeing the bird as I pull the trigger I will always be behind it. So you need to have the confidence to see it, pull through it and as it disappears out of view behind your barrels then and not until then pull the trigger? Alas on many clay grounds such birds are not often shown as the dropping bid is falling behind the shooter. But you could maybe rig up a trap on your land? My late friend Clifford Owen set up a simple single rise trap, standard clays, about four feet off the ground and fifty yards from where he stood. He set the trap to put the birds about twenty five yards above him as they arrived where he was stood. By positioning the clay on the arm he had straight overhead. Or ten yards to his left and ten yards to his right like normal birds that'd you'd call as "my bird" on a pegged line of guns.
 
Last edited:
Pattern fails before penetration and in a 70mm chambered 20 bore you've only got 28 grams (1 ounce) to play with. You say that you are likely to encounter "partridge, pigeon, duck, pheasants, rabbits" at "expected ranges up to 35ish yds" and that this may be walked up. And you are not expecting "high fast pheasants" so I assume any pheasants will also be inside your thirty-five yard distance.

A pigeon at thirty-five yards is a small target as is a partridge. Therefore although a #5 might kill if it hits a vital spot there may not be enough pellets in your charge of shot to give a pattern that...at that range...can be guaranteed to find that vital spot. But you don't say what choke you are using. Or if you can use plastic wads.

So my advice is the old traditional choke combination where the second barrel is slightly tighter than the first barrel of the old standby of 1/4 and 1/2 and 28 grams of #6 of good quality lead shot...copper plated if you can get it...if using fibre wads. If using plastic wads you could go IMPROVED and 1/4 as a plastic wad gives you the equivalent of an extra degree of choke.

A 28 gram load of #6 will give pattern, more than adequate penetration and power out indeed to forty yards, and should also be easy to find at most gunshops. If OTOH the choice is a "take it or leave it" of 28 gram of #5 or #7 and no availability of #6 I would go for #7 and slightly more open choking of IMPROVED and 1/4.

My late father shot his G E Lewis 20 bore 26" barrel "Light Magnum"* side by side in the 1960s when lead shot was not as good a quality as today and plated shot, or antimony hardened shot, was commonplace in the usual Eley 20 bore 13/16 ounce 2 1/2" length or Eley 20 bore Alphamax 1 ounce 2 3/4" length so used #5. I think that shot is so much better today...or one hopes that it is if you buy good quality cartridges...that #6 or #7 are now better advised.

* The Lewis "Light Magnum" guns were 262 barrel side by side 20 bore (or also 16 bore) guns that were chambered for 2 3/4" cartridges. Lewis (I met the son who was the "Son" or G E Lewis & Son) when he was then an old man.

The idea of the Light Magnum was a 20 bore gun that fired the equivalent of a standard 16 bore load of 1 ounce and a 16 bore gun that fired the equivalent of a standard 12 bore load of 1 1/8 ounce. The idea was you carried a gun of slightly heavier weight than a standard 20 bore or standard 16 bore but that could hit one level up from that weight.

Here's a link to one of the Lewis 16 bore Light Magnum guns sold at auction last week. They were handsome guns. Very handsome.

Mmmm, I thought shotguns were pretty worthless now..,,
Think I sold my William Evans too cheap when I gave it for free 🙁
Ken.
 
Shot a couple days last season with my new 20b. Used Gamebore Black Gold Dark Storm 28g 5/6 (5s if there were ducks on the drive, 6s otherwise).

Very happy with that cartridge and it's performance. I use the exact same load in my 12b as well, and took a crossing partridge in fading light on Beaters' day last year at what a very much more experienced gun estimated at 50yds. Although I would agree with above, pattern at that distance must have been mank... There was the pellet in the partridge's head and not a single mark on the body... Must have been pure luck, but was a fantastic experience for my first partridge taken.

On an aside though, I was out "decoying" pigeons yesterday (it was more like flighting as they seemed to have no interest in feeding...). Was using Fiocchi 28g 8s and all 4 shot were dead in the air. So definitely fancying trying 28g 7s for driven/walked up game.
 
Mmmm, I thought shotguns were pretty worthless now..,,
Think I sold my William Evans too cheap when I gave it for free 🙁
Ken.
Ken, Cant believe that anyone would part with an English gun for free, from my cold dead hands!!!!
 
Back
Top