Hi guys i have just bought a sauer 202 22-250 and because the supplied mounts were rubbish i fitted a picatinny rail and a scope i had with new mounts no problem zeroed in no time. for example a .308 is easier to start at 25 then 50 yards and when you get it on the bull you can go straight onto 100 yds and just a tweek of the elevation turret and your done.
looking at a ballistic chart for 22-250 is there a different distance that you start to zero a scope at as 50yds and 100yds do not seem to be right as for a 308?
I'd suggest looking at a ballistic calculator such as
ShootersCalculator.com Basic inputs it needs are details of the bullet (BC, weight etc), the height of the centreline of your 'scope over the centre of the barrel, easily measured, and muzzle velocity. If you don't have these exactly, for your ammo, you'll probably find some data from a factory ammo manufacturer or bullet manufacturer that will be close enough.
E.g. I've just had a quick play with
https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/rifle/22-250-rem-55-gr-v-max#!/ data for the ammo, and
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/22-cal-224-55-gr-v-max-250#!/ for the bullet.
Assumptions, 3680 fps muzzle velocity. 200 yard zero. G1 BC 0.255. 1.5" sight height.
Resulting in the following:
Seems like a good trajectory, flat within an inch to beyond 225 yards. Generally I find a 200 yard zero to be a good sort of figure. Puts you dead on at 50m and 200. Obviously do your final zeroing at 200 yards, not the simplistic sort of "inch high at 100 yards" beloved of some. Though in this case it would be 0.91"
Also agrees precisely with the Hornady data for the cartridge. Which is a good sign.
Firstly I would set a Sight Height of zero to represent a boresight. This results in drops of 0" at the muzzle (obviously), and the following drops from the boreline.
As you can see, you should be able to get on the paper within a few inches purely from a good boresight. I use a collimator rather than squinting down the barrel though, I highly recommend one, mine is a Bushnell version that uses spuds to locate in the muzzle, but I see Bushnell make one now that sticks onto the barrel using a magnet.
£43 from Uttings.
Bushnell Magnetic Boresighter ISTR I paid £20 for mine, quite a while ago. Certainly paid for itself years ago, just in ammunition and time savings. They are also very useful for checking the tracking and range of movement of scope turrets, whether your reticle is actually calibrated, are your turrets actually MOA, do the crosshairs shift as you zoom or adjust parallax, as a confidence check if your scope has taken a knock, or just been taken off and put back onto a detachable mounting system, and so on. The collimator reticle is calibrated, just make a note of where your final zero is putting the crosshairs on it.
i did not like the first scope and have now tried to zero a second scope with a one piece single mount and 1/4 MOA per click turrets now is the problem.
my assumption one MOA is 1ins at 100yds, correct?
Actually it should be 1.047" if its properly made. This can matter if you are shooting at long range.
The mount has 4 cross bolts twice as thick 5mm as the scope ring bolts which do drop part way into the picatinny rail castleations. the castleations are from memory 283mm wide but at each end the land is twice as wide. the 2 end mount bolts were digging into the picatinny rail wide lands so as I was firing a shot the bolts were digging into the picatinny rail and moving the scope. more so at the muzzel end of the picatinny rail. (propriatory german brand from a genuine supplier)
Are you sure your rail is actually picatinny. It might be something like Warne instead, which could account for your mount not fitting.
Weaver Vs. Picatinny Style Bases
