.22 Hornet Reloading

It's been said before but worth repeating:

You are a dealing with a relatively small charge of powder so if you wish to achieve the very best accuracy your rifle is capable of this is very likely the one cartridge you will see benefit from being anal in all stages of the reloading process. Think along the lines of small errors are magnified in a way they aren't (noticeably) if reloading a 270 that craves a bucket-load of powder.

The use of small pistol primers and crimping does make a diffrence. The latter having a great deal to do with the challenges of achieving consistant neck tension.

K
 
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I found a lot of interesting data for reloading .22 hornet on this website 22 Hornet Load Data - Handloads.Com

Does anyone else has practical experience reloading this cartridge?

Yes most definiteky. I bought my .22 Hornet 30 years back and after quite a lot of time spent on load development with a variety of light weight projectiles and propellants then available, I had the chamber reamed out to .22 K-Hornet proportions - this carried out after two years of the original chambering useage.

Really GREAT little calibre in both guises and fairly easy to attain accurate loads assuming the rifle's bore is in prime condition and good components and tools are used... In an Anschutz 1700 rifle mine has ALWAYS been my "goto" lamping mainstay. Relatively light weight for carrying around all night, with a stock that just "fits" me perfectly for off sticks shots, and with sufficient clout for terminating foxes out to a solid 150yds, maybe a little more if steadied well for the shot....

ATB ..... and shoot safely.
 
Yes most definiteky. I bought my .22 Hornet 30 years back and after quite a lot of time spent on load development with a variety of light weight projectiles and propellants then available, I had the chamber reamed out to .22 K-Hornet proportions - this carried out after two years of the original chambering useage.

Really GREAT little calibre in both guises and fairly easy to attain accurate loads assuming the rifle's bore is in prime condition and good components and tools are used... In an Anschutz 1700 rifle mine has ALWAYS been my "goto" lamping mainstay. Relatively light weight for carrying around all night, with a stock that just "fits" me perfectly for off sticks shots, and with sufficient clout for terminating foxes out to a solid 150yds, maybe a little more if steadied well for the shot....

ATB ..... and shoot safely.


Morning Blobby

I’ve got the standard Hornet in the Annie 1700
It’s a lovely rifle to shoot, I’ve never needed to reload, finding factory Ammo sufficient, my rounds I use are the Winchester SP they sub an inch at a hundred and knockdown is brilliant, rarely do I shoot out over a 100 a really lovely calibre to shoot and very accurate

What bullet weight have you found is best, I recently changed from Hornady 35 grn to a heavier Winchester load ( only due to a fault on Hornady Ammo)

Cheers

Phil
 
I found a lot of interesting data for reloading .22 hornet on this website 22 Hornet Load Data - Handloads.Com

Does anyone else has practical experience reloading this cartridge?
Decades. Use Hodgdon's Lil Gun powder. It isn't fussy. I load a full case under a 35 grain V-Max (13 or 13.5 grains depending on the case manufacturer) You don't need to weigh the charges to a tenth of a grain. You can literally scoop the case full and load it. As the Kernel K said, get a Lee universal case mouth expander die and a Factory Crimp die. Trim at every loading and crimp your round. Small Pistol Primers. Instant success.~Muir
 
I too reload with lil gun, using 13 grains, with a 45 grain bullet. I found it really easy to make accurate rounds, and as others have said, crimping helped a lot.
 
Morning Blobby

I’ve got the standard Hornet in the Annie 1700
It’s a lovely rifle to shoot, I’ve never needed to reload, finding factory Ammo sufficient, my rounds I use are the Winchester SP they sub an inch at a hundred and knockdown is brilliant, rarely do I shoot out over a 100 a really lovely calibre to shoot and very accurate

What bullet weight have you found is best, I recently changed from Hornady 35 grn to a heavier Winchester load ( only due to a fault on Hornady Ammo)

Cheers

Phil

Morning Phil,....
What a coincidence is that eh, such that the first and so far only responder so far not only has a .22 Hornet (well, .22 K-Hornet now) but also has pretty much the same rifle too!? Have you found that the ergonomics of the stock makes it a great and stable "fit" too?

I have reloaded (and therefore shot) several bullet types of varying weights over the passing years through my Anschutz .22Hornet rifle. From the same 35gr V-Max as you, through 40gr Sierra BlitzKing, onward through the excellent 45gr Sierra Hornets, and 45gr Sierra Spitzers & 45gr. Hornady Hornets to the sleek 50gr Sierra Blitz and 50gr Hornady Softpoints - the highly frangible ones who's name I have temporarily forgotten here... I found them ALL able to hold sub inch (often half inch) 100 yd three shot clusters given an appropriate powder and load of said.

But for the early years I settled on the really excellent 45gr Sierra Hornet projectiles in .224". These were the easiest rounds to get effective accurate groupings with, and their effects on hitting my targeted quarries was surprisingly devastating most times. Those neat, semi-pointed projectiles have really thin jacket walls and super soft lead cores and they near EXPLODE when striking rabbit or fox at moderate ranges when velocities and therefore striking energies are still relatively high.
This is helped by the fact that those projectiles from various manufacturers like Sierra & Hornady that are specifically designated as "Hornet" rounds are designed to be exceptionally frangible in due deference to the Hornet's moderate achievable velocities...

So as mentioned above, my original vermin bashing loads tended to be fronted by the Sierra 45gr 'Hornet' projectiles. Latterly I have settled on the Pointed, poly-tipped 40gr Sierra BlitKing as a reasonably aerodynamic projectile with honest velocities into the upper 2,800+f.p.s. without over-stressing the super thin, light weight brass cases. And then also out of my love for experimentation I have recently been loading a few blocks of those relatively blunt nosed, 35gr V-Max projectiles @ slightly over 3,000f.p.s. muzzle speeds. My loadings have shown amazingly tight groupings along with those high speeds (in still air) though I kept the shooting ranges closer in deference to the light weight and poor ballistic coefficient making them rather susceptible to a rapid loss of speed and hence killing energies, and to being pushed off course/target by even moderate breezes if the ranges are stretched at all ....

ATB ...... and shoot safely.


 
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However, unlike several other respondents here I used Federal 200 Small RIFLE primers and I never did use a crimp, ever, yet most of my groupings were most satisfying out to my zero point @ the 100 yards mark.

What works for you I guess eh??

ATB .... and shoot safely.
 
Have been reloading for my hornet since I bought it, I also cast my own bullets and fit gas checks, and have been happy with the results as I have been using it as a plinker as its so cheap to feed, still get 1 inch groups so accuracy is good, I got the chance of a cheap box of Speer varmint in 40 grn so I have decided to try factory made bullets, looked up and found Speer reloading tables for the bullet and the powder I use H110, so will give them a go at least till the bullets run out, if I get super accurate ( several rounds through the same hole) I might change over if not I will keep casting my own
Cheers
Ray
 
and I never did use a crimp, ever

What works for you I guess eh??

ATB .... and shoot safely.
You should. I got good groupings without it and using Sm Rifle Primers but when I got experimenting with the Small Pistol primers and a crimp I started getting ragged hole clusters for five shots at 100 yards from my CZ. I have my reloading room walls plastered with Hornet targets with groups like 10 shots in .66 inches (looked at that one this morning) Another @ 3/16" for three shots. Another with 5/16 inch for 5 shots. Even the (then) cheap Winchester 46 grain HP bullets into .6 for five shots. All after I started crimping. Lee FCD's are inexpensive.
My Hornet is one of my most accurate CF rifles.~Muir
 
You should. I got good groupings without it and using Sm Rifle Primers but when I got experimenting with the Small Pistol primers and a crimp I started getting ragged hole clusters for five shots at 100 yards from my CZ. I have my reloading room walls plastered with Hornet targets with groups like 10 shots in .66 inches (looked at that one this morning) Another @ 3/16" for three shots. Another with 5/16 inch for 5 shots. Even the (then) cheap Winchester 46 grain HP bullets into .6 for five shots. All after I started crimping. Lee FCD's are inexpensive.
My Hornet is one of my most accurate CF rifles.~Muir
So inexpensive I'm going to purchase a second and machine the base so I can still crimp my RWS overtrimmed cases. They happen to have the most perfect rim thickness of any brand I've encountered.

K
 
So inexpensive I'm going to purchase a second and machine the base so I can still crimp my RWS overtrimmed cases. They happen to have the most perfect rim thickness of any brand I've encountered.

K
Got me thinking about this crimping malarkey, I prep the case by cleaning in tumbler the flare the end of the case as i use lead cast bullets, with gas check primer powder bullet then seat it to depth which closes the case around the cast bullet,,, is this crimping or does it require a further step, just wondering
Cheers
Ray
 
If you turn the case mouth in using your seater die it may or may not be crimped depending on how far you carry it. ~Muir the Malarkist.
Ok just checked a couple of rounds, definately crimped, got a good tight hold on the bullets
Ray
 
You should. I got good groupings without it and using Sm Rifle Primers but when I got experimenting with the Small Pistol primers and a crimp I started getting ragged hole clusters for five shots at 100 yards from my CZ. I have my reloading room walls plastered with Hornet targets with groups like 10 shots in .66 inches (looked at that one this morning) Another @ 3/16" for three shots. Another with 5/16 inch for 5 shots. Even the (then) cheap Winchester 46 grain HP bullets into .6 for five shots. All after I started crimping. Lee FCD's are inexpensive.
My Hornet is one of my most accurate CF rifles.~Muir

I had thought my original tight three shot clusters (occasionally overlapping, traditional 'clover leaf' patterns) where the be all and end all of my beautifully accurate .22 Hornet (later to be a 'K-Hornet'), but I respect the views of both you (Muir) and 'Klenchblaize' on here and apparently you BOTH use Small PISTOL primers and crimp your case necks onto the loaded bullets for even BETTER(er) possible accuracy!!... So I will give your considered suggestions a whirl over the next few months and will come back to you both with my results using your collective suggestions.....

Should this minor experimentation result in the promised improvements I shall be both pleasantly surprised and eternally grateful to you guys!!

ATB ..... and Best Regards, a fellow .22 Hornet lover! 😎
 
I've over-crimped the following example to demonstrate the answer to Ray7756's question is probably no!

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Get yourself a Lee crimp die and experiment.

K
 
I'd say with lead bullets the standard roll crimper at the top of the seating stroke will do ok.

I had a .22 Hornet for a few years. Great little calibre. I rebarrelled it after approximately 8000 rounds to .17 Hornady. Then my rabbiting permission dried up and I moved over to foxes and deer, so I gave up on it and bought a .22-250. Don't get me wrong it will kill foxes just fine, but more power makes up for poor shot placement and when you shoot enough eventually you'll fluff a few up!

Shooting mainly rabbits on low, flat ground I was using 35gr V-Max seated over 13gr of Lil-Gun using a CCI small pistol primer and lightly crimped with the Lee crimp die. Those loads would easily group half an inch out of my CZ. I had it shortened to 18", recrowned/screwcut and the action smoothed up by Mike Norris - it performed flawlessly. If I were shooting more foxes or in windy areas I would probably go for a 40-45gr soft point. They would wind a bit less and penetrate a little better. Not that the V-Max had much of an issue - the rifle flattened more than one injured deer in it's time with a well placed neck shot. Not ideal, but when you see something in serious pain you're not going to make it's day any worse. As it happened they all dropped on the spot, lights out.

Accurate charge weights are pretty vital in a case that small. I used to weigh all of mine to within .1gr. If I got sloppy, so did the grouping.
 
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