243 Lee Loader question

tuck1

Well-Known Member
Evening all,

I have acquired a second hand lee loader from eBay with the intention of shortly making a tentative foray into this dark world of reloading. I'm currently digesting the Lee reloading manual for the second time, and it's all making reasonable sense so far. However, the instructions which came with the Lee loader make reference to the dipper being 2.8cc, yet the one with my kit is 2.2cc. Could anyone confirm that I have the right dipper please? Many thanks
 
Thank you. The load sheet does indeed show a 2.8, although it appears quite old. I was a little bemused as the Lee manual listing at 75 grain bullets shows various charges (volume) between 2.2 and 3.1 cc depending on the chosen powder. I will source the correct dipper prior to starting.

I'm glad I followed your original advice of "buy a manual, read it twice" now.

Thanks again
 
Thank you. The load sheet does indeed show a 2.8, although it appears quite old. I was a little bemused as the Lee manual listing at 75 grain bullets shows various charges (volume) between 2.2 and 3.1 cc depending on the chosen powder. I will source the correct dipper prior to starting.

I'm glad I followed your original advice of "buy a manual, read it twice" now.

Thanks again

The original instructions will be relevant to a certain powder or powders. You need to pick one within the range of your chosen powder. Let’s take Reloader 15 one of the few not banned in the Lee book. It shows you Lee dipper 2.50 if you read through the manual you will see part of the reason. Why they state each size, basically even a slightly heaped dipper is still safely under max. It allows for a little discrepancy in your technique. You can always buy a full set of dippers and test for the best load. As long as you stay under max you will be fine.
 
Thanks. I probably will get hold of more dippers at some point, I know the chap who owned the rifle before me had some success with a load based around varget, so I've been studying the tables to see if I can find the nearest equivalent REACH compliant powder to carefully work up a load with, possibly n140? The holy grail would be to find something that will work well in a future 308 too, which would keep things simple for me. I am, as you've probably guessed, easily confused...
 
Thanks. I probably will get hold of more dippers at some point, I know the chap who owned the rifle before me had some success with a load based around varget, so I've been studying the tables to see if I can find the nearest equivalent REACH compliant powder to carefully work up a load with, possibly n140? The holy grail would be to find something that will work well in a future 308 too, which would keep things simple for me. I am, as you've probably guessed, easily confused...

Depending on what bullet weights you choose. N140 and N150 would work in both. There’s probably quite a few more that would too.
But if you’re going to use the same powder for both try choose bullets of the optimal weight for the powder. For instance N550 with a Nosler 85 grain partition and a 150 Sierra hpbt In 243 and 308 respectively according to Vihtavuori gives highest speed for those weights.
Reloading isn’t overly complicated. The main thing is to be methodical if you follow the book or manufacturers data. And are consistent with preparing brass etc. There’s no reason why you can’t turn out quality ammunition.
 
Dipper kit on the shelf here

Also have a spreadsheet on line with load data and dipper:weight scale for some Viht powders
Allows fine tuning from powder makers data but using dippers
Done for 243 and 270

Will dig it out
 
I used the Lee Loader for my 243, but weighed the powder loads individually with a wee set of MTM digital scales. Also used an RCBS hand priming tool after a primer went 'pop' as I hammered it in with the loader kit.

Made some great ammo, quickly, easily and cheaply.

Still use a loader kit for my 222 ammo.

Have fun! But don't forget to wear safety specs at the priming stage at least!

hh
 
Fantastic info, thanks all.

Ed, that info would be great, thanks. I'll hold off on the dipper set for now thanks, purely because I've posted on the reloading classifieds and don't want to mess anyone around, but I may well be back in touch for a set.

Very interesting regarding the powder and bullet weights, I'll do some more reading.
 
Fantastic info, thanks all.

Ed, that info would be great, thanks. I'll hold off on the dipper set for now thanks, purely because I've posted on the reloading classifieds and don't want to mess anyone around, but I may well be back in touch for a set.

Very interesting regarding the powder and bullet weights, I'll do some more reading.
I'd look at getting a cheap set of beam scales, I did exactly that with my 223 and worked a load up. You will soon buy a press and all the bits to go with it lol. Great little tools but when your loading over 20 or so it starts getting time consuming!
 
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May I suggest you obtain a copy of ‘Modern Reloading’ book by Richard Lee? Readily available online and usually cheap/used on eBay.

This book has been of very great use to me in all matters reloading.

While I do my ‘volume’ reloading on semi-automated and hand Lee presses (I pretty much only use Lee equipment), I have prepared many tens of thousands of rounds over many decades using just the Lee Loaders and Lee Dippers. Shooting results are always excellent with Loader/Dipper-made ammunition. The Loader is especially handy for making very small runs of experimental loads.

The book is also excellent (for me) because it gives loads for the Dippers in a huge range of bullet weights, for many powders, in very many calibers. It also shows the ‘cc’ capacities for any given load, so with a little math a sensible load can safely be created using an adjustable powder volumes measurer, besides by measuring by weight.
 
Thanks Jack. That's the one I have, and I now have a dipper set, and have borrowed some scales to double check things. I'm about set to start making up some cartridges I reckon.
 
Excellent. Start low and work up incrementally until groups meet your needs. I make up 20 rds at a time until I get ‘the’ load. I will say that I’ve found the listed loads in the Lee book or on the data list that comes with the dies to be very good and requiring very little tweaking. In context, for practical shooting, that means consistent 4”-5” 5-rd groups (iron sights) or 2” or under with a scope. Critters within that circle are done ... no matter the species.
 
Thanks. You’ve hit the nail on the head actually, at the risk of duplication (I’ve been posting on another topic in the same vein) I’m currently getting back behind the rifle after a period away, and my shooting is not what it should be. I need to get some practice time in, without worrying too much about the cost, and the Lee loader seemed like the perfect way to knock some rounds up cheaply and with minimal kit. I bought a Lee manual first, and on the advice of Mr Muir, and others, I’ve read and re read it. It’s starting to sink in and make sense. I’ve acquired all the components, and borrowed some scales. So I’m building confidence and knowledge.
I’m not shooting deer, so I’m not chasing velocity or anything particularl. The weak link here is me, and I know the chap who owned the rifle before had success with 75 gun hp’s and a varget recipe, so I’m hoping to find something close using n140, and then just load some up and get shooting. It won’t be long before the cubs are appearing and we will be busy....
Thanks to all who have contributed. I’m sure I’ll have plenty of questions yet!
 
Simplest way to stay right with your rifle is to stay right with the components and be guided by any of the published reloading books. Almost all are published by powder, bullet and/or reloading equipment manufacturers. Most of these come out of the US. As such, their content is very closely reviewed before their lawyers sign-off for publication. This is one of the very few benefits of operating in a highly litigious and adversarial business climate ... you have a real incentive to avoid ‘getting it wrong’!
 
Right, another one please for the wise.

Let's talk about OAL. I have a cheap set of calipers. I'm using Sierra HP 75 grain bullets. Do I need to worry about seating depth too much (from a safety perspective) or can I basically make sure the bullet is well seated (i.e. to a calibre depth) and crack on? I don't have any factory HP cartridges to compare to, or a comparator, so how do I get an oal? Measure to the tip of the hollow point? I'm not chasing accuracy here, just wanting to ensure safe pressures and getting my die set up correctly.

Ta
 
Calibre depth or shank, excluding any boat tail, seated to bottom of neck, job done. Obviously usual warnings of starting low and working up looking for pressure signs.....
Just measure to tip with calipers, there will be some variation in the bullets but nothing much to worry about at this stage.
 
You can really enhance the little Lee Loader's user friendliness by using a little arbor press in place of the hammer/mallet. On the down side - that does add a significant cost to the operation. I used one of these when they were available from Chronos UK. I don't think that exact one is still available you can fund them for not ridiculous money.

It was a big deal for me because we had a new baby in the house when I started using my Lee loader and it made the operation silent and a lot quicker. Whilst there was something fun about literally "hammering out" completed rounds of ammunition the cost of the arbor press was worth it to keep the wife happy!
 
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