One day you may...injured/wounded through no fault of your own, needing putting out of misery, for example.
25-06 zeroing distances
- Thread starter howard01233
- Start date
Thanks
baguio
Well-Known Member
And then you use hold over! Much better than your rifle been permanently off zero for the one in a thousand chance of taking a long shot at a wounded animal! Much of my land doesn't lend itself to a 200 yard shot regardless of whether the animal is injured. Mostly too flat and too many footpaths.
Zeroing depends massively on what the person shoots at and on what land.
What you do doesn't fit everyone else. The question is pointless IMO because one size doesn't fit all!
The question isn’t pointless as there is a reason I asked, proves the point everyone has there own way, if you shoot everything over 200 yards most of the answers fit. But I am old school and have always taught clients zero at 100 yards and adjust & know what your gun does. This is because most shooting in the uk around the 100-150
But I still wanted to see what others do thanks for your opinions
Ah, but how much hold over ?? That’s the point, same point of aim each and every time with the 200 yd zero method. Introduce yet another variable , another decision to be made and things get more complicated in my book!
chacun a son gout , though.
baguio
Well-Known Member
4.5 " with my rifle at 200m. Simples! Slightly high, slightly low, who cares as long as the wounded animal goes down.
if it works fir you that’s great. No argument.
I’m just thinking Roe, Red, Muntjac, Fallow , CWD, all different targets.....where is the specific point of aim for each at 200 yards, if that shot ever arose ? I’m not familiar enough with 4.5 inch to judge instinctively..........9 inch would be much more recognisable
baguio
Well-Known Member
Just below the top of the back above the front leg will drop them all just the same biffo. Different deer species all have their parts in the same place. Not that I have ever taken a shot at a munty at 200 yards. Munties are usually in cover once they run 10 yards and if I can't get closer than 200 yards on a munty I would leave it for another day!if it works fir you that’s great. No argument.
I’m just thinking Roe, Red, Muntjac, Fallow , CWD, all different targets.....where is the specific point of aim for each at 200 yards, if that shot ever arose ? I’m not familiar enough with 4.5 inch to judge instinctively..........9 inch would be much more recognisable
I generally calculate optimum zero once I have the load velocity down . However most deer rifles especially those with the faster velocity, generally and up at 200 or a hair less . Without ever having a peak trajectory over the line of sight that is going to create any issues when shooting deer
Now here is the big one , if you can't access easy testing at different ranges don't go for that old trick of going say 1.5" high at 100 because you haven't really got a clue where you are on the trajectory curve . Now if you find 170 yards gives you the perfect see and point measure it on a good day at 100 and see for real where it is !
Imo there is no point to a faster bullet unless you use it to its best . For extreame instance I zero a 55 gun nosler bt at 220 yards and its point and shoot all the way from pretty darn close to that 220 .
Bore to scope centre matters in this
Now here is the big one , if you can't access easy testing at different ranges don't go for that old trick of going say 1.5" high at 100 because you haven't really got a clue where you are on the trajectory curve . Now if you find 170 yards gives you the perfect see and point measure it on a good day at 100 and see for real where it is !
Imo there is no point to a faster bullet unless you use it to its best . For extreame instance I zero a 55 gun nosler bt at 220 yards and its point and shoot all the way from pretty darn close to that 220 .
Bore to scope centre matters in this
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