Great way to induce it being terrified of you and nothing else !
A plan to stop my dog from chasing....
- Thread starter aboynamedjim
- Start date
Is it squirrels and pigeons you are hoping to stop her chasing? If not it would be better to target the species you don’t want her to chase in the environment they inhabit.
Just keep her on the lead and make her (force her if necessary) to sit when they are encountered with a stern sit command. You will train her to sit to flush effectively
gelert
Well-Known Member
A rabbit pen would be a better idea.
Much more control to stop the dog and create a barrier.If you cant stop it at home,you sure as **** wont stop it in a deer park.
Martiniblack577
Well-Known Member
Agreed. Let’s not worry about trauma to the trachea
95% of E-Coolars sold in the UK are to stop prey chasing.
I’m not saying whether you should go down this route or you shouldn’t. I won’t offer any training advice.
But what I will say is that nobody ever puts their money where their mouth is, when training a prey driven dog not to chase prey by using love, kindness and chunks of cheddar.
I’m not saying whether you should go down this route or you shouldn’t. I won’t offer any training advice.
But what I will say is that nobody ever puts their money where their mouth is, when training a prey driven dog not to chase prey by using love, kindness and chunks of cheddar.
I suppose if you allow the dog to get to full speed before checking it,Agreed. Let’s not worry about trauma to the trachea
Fool
Dunwaters
Well-Known Member
I dunno, it was standard practice for most of my life, and quite a while before, it’s only recently that we’ve gone for the soft psychological approach.
The more direct methods work too, that’s why we used them.
A brief vision of hell has its uses.
i suppose if a park is the only training area you have it cant do any harm but sounds like you have missed the basics that start from day you get it. NO means NO from ****ing in the house to mouthing you when playing with sharp teeth . so back to basics loads of distraction ,people throwing balls etc you saying NO before it happens. we dont need to encourage most working dogs to hunt/chase/retrieve most are hard wired for it depending what you have and thats where a lot of people go wrong. the hard part is stopping them. we are not all as fortunate as @Rhodesianjess and myself but had my pup in around the poults from 5 month old last year and was worried that she wouldnt pick a shot bird off my peg at 8 month after 3 month of NO leave it but no probs retrieving over the season. so this year pushing the poults back she knows she cant touch them, practice NO means NO and stop whistle at dinner times and any other opportunity you get
Martiniblack577
Well-Known Member
- difficult answer to endorse. So you’re basically saying you are very poor at working with a hound so you resort to violence.
Martiniblack577
Well-Known Member
Not even full speed. Why not put it on yourself; stand stationary if you have mobility issues and get someone to run the other way and see what it feels like when it bites your trachea and compromises airway entry?
Dunwaters
Well-Known Member
Im actually quite good at training dogs.
What I am saying is that physical chastisement can be an effective tool.
The electric collar works because it hurts, try it on yourself if you think otherwise, it’s precisely because it’s unpleasant that it works.
You can’t force a dog to do something by punishing it, but you can damn sure stop undesirable behaviour fast before it becomes a problem.
Rolling them onto their back and giving them a shouting down can be a useful “top level” punishment for wilfully ignoring a command. The difficulty is being fit enough and fast enough to catch the dog so you are punishing the correct part (rather than the recall). So in reality most on here are limited to when a pup is very small, at which point a wagged finger and stiff “no” will do. If you get on top of it early doors and treat the pup as you would the adult dog then you’ll have a smooth journey. If not, and you don’t live/train/work in Wales then an electronic collar can give correction remotely and precisely. I don’t own a collar, but have seen them in use and agreed to be zapped myself so understand their effectiveness.
Personally, I never let the situation get that bad that its required, perhaps you can share your methods
Jon P
Well-Known Member
Does he mean on its back so it’s submissive position? I did not take the comment as picking it up by its back legs.
Martiniblack577
Well-Known Member
So you openly admit to abusing a hound to achieve your end game? Appalling.
Martiniblack577
Well-Known Member
To confirm, you endorse the use of a chain that can cause lasting trauma to an airway but then deny ever having to use one?
Bad behaviour needs negative consequences and highly prey driven dogs that have had the thrill of the chase can be the worst to claw back.
My experience comes from lurchers and if you intend on working them properly in amongst livestock then you need to make sure they are 100% with all livestock which includes chickens and goats.
An e collar can be an excellent training aid if used correctly in right circumstances or bloody good scolding if required.
I would much rather dog being scolded than shot or rehomed, I've had bull crosses and Patterdales that would never flinch I livestock and their preydrive was absolutely phenomenal.
My experience comes from lurchers and if you intend on working them properly in amongst livestock then you need to make sure they are 100% with all livestock which includes chickens and goats.
An e collar can be an excellent training aid if used correctly in right circumstances or bloody good scolding if required.
I would much rather dog being scolded than shot or rehomed, I've had bull crosses and Patterdales that would never flinch I livestock and their preydrive was absolutely phenomenal.
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