Add on NV for 308

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You could buy a secondhand Hawke 3-12 x 50 rated up to .308 for peanuts, two sets of good quick detach rings then and you're sorted.

That's exactly what I've just done tonight zeroed 007v on the rimfire, turned the brightness down to one (instructions as per from bruce ) the hawke and the 007 are fantastic together, got the scope as new for £200 and it all works perfectly really pleased

 

[BLUEROLL]

Hi all,

I’ve been using a Pard 007 with a PBIR on my RF for years with great success, but what is the current thinking for add on NV with a decent scope?

I’ve got a Vortex Strike Eagle which I LOVE for day shooting, but the 007 eye relief isn’t great and the picture is lacking clarity out past 100m

What are people using to add night time ability to their rifles, I’m desperate to have the .308 as a “do everything rifle” and not add a dedicated foxing .223 to the cabinet (although having seen the image on the drone pros……..!!!!)

I started with the Wulf 4K but I’m not a fan of digital day scopes, preferring glass.

Thoughts welcomed pleased!!

I am trialling the Hik Cheetah front add on at the moment. It is a bit of a lump stuck on the front of your scope and the on board IR (LED) is not the best, but adding a VCSEL IR transform it. Although of course you have to accept that the image will start to pixelate once you start to zoom on the day scope.

 

[Rural Management Services]

I am trialling the Hik Cheetah front add on at the moment. It is a bit of a lump stuck on the front of your scope and the on board IR (LED) is not the best, but adding a VCSEL IR transform it. Although of course you have to accept that the image will start to pixelate once you start to zoom on the day scope.

Can you take the adapter off complete with the add on and keep zero or does it suffer with the same issues as other front add on’s?

 

[r6demon]

You really need a laser IR, any one of the better ones will do, what you are using is not helping you.

Any recommendations?? I see there is a laser unit for sale on here but I’ve not heard of the make before?

You could buy a secondhand Hawke 3-12 x 50 rated up to .308 for peanuts, two sets of good quick detach rings then and you're sorted.

LOL that’s exactly how I got to this stage, I wanted a WULF for night use and Vortex for the day but I could not guarantee that it would retain zero!

One of the issues will be the Vortex scope. I am afraid they have many good points but they are the best with rear NV. I can get a better picture through my Blaser 2.8-20x50 or Z6i 2.5-15x56 than through the Vortex. Don’t get me wrong none of these are knock your pants off amazing but they are good for 100-150 yards which suits me fine for accidental foxes or staying out for boar after deer. Randomly the relatively cheap Vortex is the worst of the three, which you wouldn’t expect.

I would maybe look at selling your pard NV007A and getting the NV007S which won’t give you eye relief issues because it’s something like 40mm less length and gives normal eye relief. Then scope wise a Delta 2.5-15x56 or GPO Spectra 4-16x50 or most Hawkes etc. With some pennies from your old pard and some pennies from your scope I am pretty sure the above is the most cost efficient solution for you. The above scopes should give you glass that punches above their price for daytime and decent NV ability 200 yards plus and even more with external torches etc.

I have just checked an I have the Pard007 first gen model it seems with the laser pointer ?

Great shout on the 007s I’d missed that, there is a comparison here:

 

[Herb64]

I am trialling the Hik Cheetah front add on at the moment. It is a bit of a lump stuck on the front of your scope and the on board IR (LED) is not the best, but adding a VCSEL IR transform it. Although of course you have to accept that the image will start to pixelate once you start to zoom on the day scope.

I accept video recorded through the unit is not always top notch but the images recorded by a certain retailers main equipment ‘lover’ that were on a YouTube channel last week would make this unit a contender for the most atrocious add on of all time. I’d also wager there is a point of impact difference but as I’ve not used one and never will do I could be wrong. I’ve had 2 front fitting units, Pulsars F455 and XG50 and both where shockers.

 

[r6demon]

The new 007S also has LRF which would make life easier too!!

Has anyone used one of these yet??

New! PARD NV007SP LRF Gen 2 Digital Night Vision Add On 850nm with LRF

Pard NV007SP LRF night vision rifle scope add on, updated official UK version with OLED display and full 2 year warranty.

www.nightvisionstore.co.uk

 

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i’m not 100% sure but i think the newest 007 has a different bayonet fitting to the previous, hence I got the V version so it’s compatiable with the old one on the PCP

 

[r6demon]

I’m assuming you can get spare fittings as I would want to swap between the .17 and .308?

 

[Bo Diddley]

I use a Pbir-L, and so do a lot of my friends. Tbf any of the well known ones are just as good, you're splitting hairs if you say one is better than the other I think.
My longest night time shot was using a Pard 007 with the Pbir-L, 370 yards bib shot fox, I could see it perfectly clear on the edge of a cover strip.

 

[r6demon]

Ok I need to find myself a used laser IR it seems first!! Heading over to the wanted section ….

 

[mealiejimmy]

The new 007S also has LRF which would make life easier too!!

Has anyone used one of these yet??

New! PARD NV007SP LRF Gen 2 Digital Night Vision Add On 850nm with LRF

Pard NV007SP LRF night vision rifle scope add on, updated official UK version with OLED display and full 2 year warranty.

www.nightvisionstore.co.uk

Beware of the rangefinder beam being blocked by high scope turrets

Cheers

Bruce

 

[HarryHunting16]

The starlight archer is a great bit of kit if you’re thinking of putting it on your 308. Gen 3 and more that capable of shooting out to 300 meter not that you would need to.

 

[BLUEROLL]

Can you take the adapter off complete with the add on and keep zero or does it suffer with the same issues as other front add on’s?

I take the butler Creek off the objective of my Swaro Z8i and slip the whole lot on/off and It seems to be holding zero well at the moment. For the initial alignment I run a strip of white insulation tape across the adaptor/objective join and carefully slice it with a very sharp modelling blade, thereafter and assuming you have collimated/saved your x/y settings its just a question of lining up the two strips of tape. Also you can check your alignment in the collimation menu as it gives you the option of a displayed horizontal line on the screen to ensure your scope horizontal bars on the ret are parallel.

 

[BLUEROLL]

I accept video recorded through the unit is not always top notch but the images recorded by a certain retailers main equipment ‘lover’ that were on a YouTube channel last week would make this unit a contender for the most atrocious add on of all time. I’d also wager there is a point of impact difference but as I’ve not used one and never will do I could be wrong. I’ve had 2 front fitting units, Pulsars F455 and XG50 and both where shockers.

The Cheetah only records on its base 1x mag and although the image is very good in day mode night image is dependant on the IR used. To record what you see through the scope/Cheetah when zoomed in you would need a scope cam.

 

[BLUEROLL]

Any recommendations?? I see there is a laser unit for sale on here but I’ve not heard of the make before?

LOL that’s exactly how I got to this stage, I wanted a WULF for night use and Vortex for the day but I could not guarantee that it would retain zero!



I have just checked an I have the Pard007 first gen model it seems with the laser pointer ?

Great shout on the 007s I’d missed that, there is a comparison here:

I have a Pard 007S for sale in the classified if your interested.